hi,

 

I bought a KE25 not that long ago and am now startin to get the modifing bug.

 

I just bought a Toyota CT12A turbo (thanks Chumps) and am now going throught the proccess of figuring out how everything will go.

 

I scouted out a few different ways of doing it and ive taken a liking to a setup seen on a Datsun. My main toss up is where i will position the turbo but the design on the Datto used stock manifold cut off about 4in away from the head and a section of square RHS welded to the end with a home made flange welded on, It did look very barbarick but as i have access to most of the tools and equipment needed it should look 100 times better.

 

this above setup positions the turbo partly under the inlet manifold and with the turbo inlet facing the firewall, compressor outlet facing up wards, the tubine inlet facing toward the block and the turbine dump facing forwards.

 

the turbine dump and wastegate pipe will double back under the turbo and mainfolds and follow the same route as a stock exhaust and the compressed air travels straight up and a couple of bends directly into the top of the carb.

 

with the turbo in that position the inlet maniflod should cover most of it and a stock airfilter bonnet could be used to hide the turbo to carb piping just incase the po-po cop a look :abuse:

 

i can do all of the above work myself but need a few pointers.

 

at what psi does the factory CT12A wastegate open;

 

which carb will be the best option for the above pressure with minimal modifications.

 

Also how long could stock std 3k internals hold up with being turbocharged (3k already had a 4k head when i bought it,so decomp is one less thing to worry bout).

 

Id like to see how long it can cope with being tuboed and if i blow it up i hav a 4k lined up so everything will bolt straight back on.

 

As you can see ive done the research and am not askin for people to tell me how to do it, just some pointers and advice if youve previously turboed a k engine. critisism and comments are always welcome.

 

CHEERS

Ryan

Edited April 3, 200818 yr by KE25 KID

If you are going to use the stocker carb you will have to make up some sort of enclosure so the outside of the carb sees the same boost pressure as the inside otherwise funny things will happen.

 

You may be better to try and track down a specific blow through carby and adapt that to fit. Think a Charade turbo had one.

 

Hope this makes sense as its too early for me to think, the secoond coffee hasn't kicked in yet..........

It's good to see someone else wanting to do this,

(i am thinking of doing the same when i get off my Ps) :abuse:

 

I will be watching this thread closely.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=2341

 

Read. :abuse:

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=2341

 

Read. :dance:

 

yeah have read it b4 all i really need to kno is;

 

what psi the factory CT12A wastegate opens;

 

what carb will be the best with MINIMAL mods

 

and how long people think a fully stock 3k (apart from 4k head) will last, keep in mind i drive it hard.

 

Also Rad Rolla, your waiting tilll your off your P's, I'm about 2 months into mine haha. Keep in mind I'm in SA so no P plate restrictions. :hmm:

 

CHEERS

Ryan

Edited April 6, 200818 yr by KE25 KID

You may be better to try and track down a specific blow through carby and adapt that to fit. Think a Charade turbo had one.

 

The charade carby should bolt on, or go very close, by my research.

Also Rad Rolla, your waiting tilll your off your P's, I'm about 2 months into mine haha. Keep in mind I'm in SA so no P plate restrictions. :)

 

CHEERS

Ryan

 

Yeah don't rub it in :dance: (Victorian Ps are the sux) :hmm:

yeah have read it b4 all i really need to kno is;

 

what psi the factory CT12A wastegate opens;

 

what carb will be the best with MINIMAL mods

 

and how long people think a fully stock 3k (apart from 4k head) will last, keep in mind i drive it hard.

 

Also Rad Rolla, your waiting tilll your off your P's, I'm about 2 months into mine haha. Keep in mind I'm in SA so no P plate restrictions. :dance:

 

CHEERS

Ryan

 

No idea what the factory wastegate is set too, just stick a bleeder in and set the boost to what you want.

 

As for Carby: 32/36 should be fairly straightfoward. The fuel bowl has a vent next to the throats and an external vent. If you block the external vent then the fuel bowl will see the boost pressure.

 

And if you really do drive it hard, I'll give you 3 weeks.

Stock gate pressure would be 6-8psi depending on conditions, ie weather, what gear etc.

As for Carby: 32/36 should be fairly straightfoward. The fuel bowl has a vent next to the throats and an external vent. If you block the external vent then the fuel bowl will see the boost pressure.

 

And if you really do drive it hard, I'll give you 3 weeks.

 

So if I understand right, blocking off the external vent would be the only thing id have to do to mod it for boost, apart from makin a boost sealed enclosure for it.

 

Stock gate pressure would be 6-8psi depending on conditions, ie weather, what gear etc.

 

Sweetness, 6-8psi should be aiight for a stocky. If i wanna quicker death for the old 1200 i'll put in a cheap airvalve and turn the the bost RIGHT up, keeping in mind the CT12a has a ceramic turbine wheel so that will limit max boost

 

CHEERS

Ryan

OK had a decent look at the space where i wanna mount the turbo and theres NO way I'm gonna fit where i was thinking. So what i'll boe doing is cutting up a stock manifold and weld it to a length of mild steel exhaust pipe (possibly steam pipe if i can find some) and bend it up so the turbo is mounted in the space on the passenger side opposite to where the battery is on the drivers side. this should make fabricting a turbo dump and manifolds easier. any ideas where to get cheap or possibly scrap steam pipe in adelaide??

 

CHEERS

Ryan

ONLY use steam pipe. Mild steel will droop and inhibit response.

 

So you mean somewhere like this......

 

I'm interested in where to get the Steam pipe as well.

 

Cutting and welding cast iron is rife with issues, mainly it will be prone to cracking. Try and keep plenty of heat in the manifold by using an oxy torch on it, and definitely don't drop it in water to cool it, let it cool slowly.

yeah thats where i wanna mount it, being a ke25 theres free space there anyway so i wont have to relocate the battery like some people have to with later model rollas. i might try Paramount Browns on cavan road for the steam pipe, plus where i work i can get discount for things i buy at paramount. I'll be doing all of the fabrication work at tech school so i'll have all the stuff i need. so does mig welding the headers while heating it up with an oxy torch sound like the way to do it?

 

CHEERS

Ryan

Just make a flange on the end of the j-pipe to bolt to the stock(un-modified) exhaust manifold. See below....