my turbo upside down? Umm, yeah i guess it is....hahaha. actually you are wrong, the feed is threaded and the drain just dribbles out of the big hole.

 

but you are right about my pic, the turbo isn't attached.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

no probs, i was just trying to help. so can you rotate the middle section of the turbo around so the drain hole is pointing down?

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

yes but the pressure drop across the bearings is pretty much total, so the oil drain needs to be vertically (or as close to) straight down.

 

i.e. oil won't be spurting out the top of your oil drain flange!

you could leave the setup as is and just get a riser plate made up that goes between the turbo inlet and exhaust manifold so that the wastegate actuator can clear the dizzy. just watch out for the bonnet clearance.

 

CHEERS

Ryan

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

Take it from people with more experience with turbos than you. The drain NEEDS to be pointing vertically down or else you will blow the oil seals of the turbo out. But if you think you know better go right ahead...

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

I hope you approve of my new avatar.

 

Just weld a plate on the back of the turbo and get a low profile actuator. A GTiR turbo actuator would probably suit your application perfectly. But you really need to look at clocking the turbo so that your bearing cartridge and compressor are pointing in the right direction now. That way when you weld the new bracket to the compressor housing everything is where it should be. Yes you can weld the alloy on turbo housings, its done frequently. If you don't want to weld buy a GT2560R so you will have bolts on the rear of the compressor housing where you can bolt a new bracket on. It'll cost about $1100del and you'll have far better reliability than a pooey T25.

 

If you won't take the drain advice from me take it from garrett:

 

Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.

if you think $140 is 'horribly pricey', what do you think of my $900 custom steampipe manifold? plus $200 to get it ceramic coated.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

if you think $140 is 'horribly pricey', what do you think of my $900 custom steampipe manifold? plus $200 to get it ceramic coated.

 

You got ripped off big time.

 

name='Jono' date='Apr 27 2008, 05:58 PM' post='242375']

if you think $140 is 'horribly pricey', what do you think of my $900 custom steampipe manifold? plus $200 to get it ceramic coated.

 

Your insane?

To put another 4k motor/5 speed gearbox/ new water pump/new fuel pump/ new clutch kit/ new starter motor/ spigot bearing/ rear main seal/ harmonic balancer seal/ gearbox extension housing seal/ and gaskets was $140. I must admit the engine has turned out to be a bit sad (but it says that being a bowerbird can pay off).

This thread is now off topic, unless someone can help me with ways to get the turbo circlip off. I will be buying a big set of ratchet internal circlip pliers tomorrow and may answer my own question, story then finished.

 

Get a 90 degreee circlip plier, Loosen the retaining bolts, Remove circlip & turn housing, Put circlip in and tighten bolts.

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Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox