Medicine_Man Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Got a picture of the sensor at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted December 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Got a picture of the sensor at all? Â This one: Â Â Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Yeah, looks the same as early 4age Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted December 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2008 Still no go, when hooked up everything as it should need by wiring diagrams, I am getting 12V to both sides of the injector. That is 12V from the supply wires from the ballast resistor and 12V from #10 (injectors 1 & 2) and #20 (injectors 3 & 4). To my understanding, #10 and #20 should be a dead end circuit until they create earth for injector pulses. When I unplug the power supply to the injectors, the reading to #10 and #20 drops to 0 too. @#$%^&*^% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted December 27, 2008 Report Share Posted December 27, 2008 Sounds like it could be a crook ECU perhaps.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) I wise man once said "If you find yourself stuck in a hole, stop digging" - with that in mind, I have secured the services of a qualified mechanic to come and have a look at the bitch, and if bales on me again, (LOL) there'll be $50 for another toyota guru to come down and have a look. Edited December 30, 2008 by machg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted January 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) Jonny came down today, and we managed to get the thing running, sort of. Its good to know I haven't stuffed up any of the wiring. We had trouble getting the timing light to flash when hooked up to 2 of the leads, suggesting only 2 cylinders were getting decent spark. :yes: Jonny suggested a new set of plugs, so I put a new set in. Fair dinkum, this project is cursed. Wouldn't run on the new plugs. Turns out one of the new plugs is f@$ked, how unlucky can you get? In summary; have fuel pressure, injectors are now working, compression is 150psi on all 4 cylinders, timing is roughly right and I am getting some spark on all 4 plugs, and still won't run properly. Glad I am not a mechanic for a living, this is really starting to shit me. Edited January 2, 2009 by machg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE30_KE35_KE55 Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 Jonny came down today, and we managed to get the thing running, sort of. Its good to know I haven't stuffed up any of the wiring. We had trouble getting the timing light to flash when hooked up to 2 of the leads, suggesting only 2 cylinders were getting decent spark. :yes: Jonny suggested a new set of plugs, so I put a new set in. Fair dinkum, this project is cursed. Wouldn't run on the new plugs. Turns out one of the new plugs is f@$ked, how unlucky can you get? In summary; have fuel pressure, injectors are now working, compression is 150psi on all 4 cylinders, timing is roughly right and I am getting some spark on all 4 plugs, and still won't run properly. Glad I am not a mechanic for a living, this is really starting to shit me. Â your making progress, maybe try testing the resistance of the leads, check the distributer cap and rotor button as well a timing light should work even if the spark plug is shorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Getting there: Actually had it running and semi-driveable today. I disconnected the "open circuit" relay and found an STA wire which I had accidentally connected to the positive battery terminal. I am not sure about tuning, I will have to get the coolant temp sensor fixed, then fiddle with the idle speed and mixture (screw on air flow meter) some more. Would the ECU be running "closed loop" mode at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Rochester Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 (edited) This is my understanding of how the 2T-GE works:  The ECU inputs are: -ignition signal, 1 wire from (-) coil -air flow meter, a few wires -throttle switch or "TPS". 3 wires. Its just contacts for idle, part throttle, full throttle. -intake air temp. Part of airflow meter. variable resistance. -coolant temp. 2 wires. Variable resistance. -O2 sensor. 1 wire. Signal between 0 and 1 volts from memory. -starter signal. 1 wire coming from the starter solenoid  The ECU outputs are: -injectors. 2 wires only.  The injectors get permanance power, via the resistor pack. The ECU earth the injectors to operate. Not sequential. Batch fire. Edited January 6, 2009 by Jonny Rochester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Rochester Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 I expect that when the throttle contacts are at idle, the computer goes in closed loop a bit, and varies things depending on exhaust sensor and temp sensors. It must do, otherwise why have a exhaust sensor? Â The 5th cold start injector is not controled by the ECU. It is controled by its own funny relay, (called a thermo-time switch from memory?) which needs a power from the starter wire. I suspect you don't have that wire connected. Â The "circuit opening relay" is triggered by contacts in the airflowmeter and/or the starter wire, and is used to power the fuel pump. But you have the fuel pump hard wired to the ignition, which is OK I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Rochester Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 The coolant sensor that is broken is indeed the same as early 4A-GE. Â The broken sensor is the EFI water temp sensor. Part # 89422-30020 or 89422-12010. The dealership should be able to get it easy, but the local Repco or Burson may also have it as it's the same as lots of other toyotas. It is the same as early 4A-GE, but most commonly it is the same as on SV21 Camry. It is on the water housing at the back of the head on a SV21 Camry, so should be easy to get at the wrecker if not new. Â The other water temp sensor on the same housing as your 2T-GE is the start-time sensor, to control the 5th injector I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Thanks Jonny, will pop into town tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted January 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 O.K. water temp sensor installed, still running like a bitch. Think 13BPP idle. Engine does not like throttle. It goes "best" (still shit) on partial throttle from 3000 - 4000 rpm. Have been playing with "mixture" screw on air flow meter. The only thing that seems to make any difference is by screwing it all the way down, then the engine doesn't run at all. I might go around all the dodgy joins I have made and solder and tape them. At least it is sort of driveable I suppose, what to try next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machg Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Drove it to a friend's place who's pretty handy with electrical things, hopefully he can find what's wrong with the bitch. If he can't, auto electrician? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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