Jonny Rochester

One problem is the metal worm drive gear on the output shaft gets rusty, then the rust eats out the plastic gear. I had this once on a completely stock and otherwise healthy car. The car was an import and had sat on the warf for a while, meaning the metal gear could rust. I fixed it with a new metal gear from Toyota, but could also have fixed it by sanding off the rust. If you want to know the ratios and number of teeth etc, I can look that up but it takes a bit of time. For T50 gearbox, there are 2 different sizes of gear sets (not just the ratios) due to the different size output shaft on the gearbox. The change comes half way in the TE72 range. The old style has the metal gear just slip onto the output shaft, located by a ball bearing. The newer sort (late TE72 and AE86) has the metal gear with a spline that matches the output shaft spline.

AE71RG-EWMDCQ ? In this case W stands for wagon. Having driven your T-18, I don't think it or any of your cars would pass over the pits first or even second time around. :P The AE71 is 1600cc, the 2T is 1600cc so that should not create too many problems. Turbo is something different, and I am fairly sure the car would need to be engineered to pass. Meaning a paid inspection by an actual engineer (not cheap), bigger front brakes or whatever the engineer wants, and all the paper work filled out and a big aluminum tag in the engine bay. Solution: take the turbo off and stick the regular exhaust manifold on for inspection. You won't have to change the computer at all. Keep the AE71 gearbox for me.

Idealy, all of your 3T-GTE bits would be from a actual 3T-GTE motor (TA63 Celica / Carina/ Corona). And in this case, the dump pipe would be facing down, as someone has said. Clearly your turbo or dump pipe is off something else, as it faces differently. Maybe you should call up som Toyota wreckers/importers around Australia to see if they have any 3T-GTE stuff. Or put a wanted notice up on Toymods. Or, custom dump pipe.

You can check the injectors with the manifold off I guess. I don't do that very often. The proper way to check injectors, is to just take them off, and take them to Automotive Service Solutions on Collins St. Get them to check, clean and put new rubbers on them. It costs money, but that would be 1 thing eliminated, or fixed. I have a spare gasket here, the one between the 2 halves of the runners. And I have a inspection plate gasket also. Yours for $1. For intake gasket, you can use cerial packet, and some fuel resistant sealant. (Not silicon). I once had a failed fuel pressure regulator (ST215W Caldina) and fuel got into the vacuum line. The engine run, but misfired under load due to low fuel pressure. Thankfully almost any Toyota regulator fitted, I just had to bend some hoses to fit. But your regulator is a much older design. If you have enough fuel pressure to create a mist when you crack the cold start line off, then that is enough to make if idle fine. It should idle good. Small problems with the pressure regulator would only show themselves on the road.

The coolant sensor that is broken is indeed the same as early 4A-GE. The broken sensor is the EFI water temp sensor. Part # 89422-30020 or 89422-12010. The dealership should be able to get it easy, but the local Repco or Burson may also have it as it's the same as lots of other toyotas. It is the same as early 4A-GE, but most commonly it is the same as on SV21 Camry. It is on the water housing at the back of the head on a SV21 Camry, so should be easy to get at the wrecker if not new. The other water temp sensor on the same housing as your 2T-GE is the start-time sensor, to control the 5th injector I guess.

I expect that when the throttle contacts are at idle, the computer goes in closed loop a bit, and varies things depending on exhaust sensor and temp sensors. It must do, otherwise why have a exhaust sensor? The 5th cold start injector is not controled by the ECU. It is controled by its own funny relay, (called a thermo-time switch from memory?) which needs a power from the starter wire. I suspect you don't have that wire connected. The "circuit opening relay" is triggered by contacts in the airflowmeter and/or the starter wire, and is used to power the fuel pump. But you have the fuel pump hard wired to the ignition, which is OK I guess.

This is my understanding of how the 2T-GE works: The ECU inputs are: -ignition signal, 1 wire from (-) coil -air flow meter, a few wires -throttle switch or "TPS". 3 wires. Its just contacts for idle, part throttle, full throttle. -intake air temp. Part of airflow meter. variable resistance. -coolant temp. 2 wires. Variable resistance. -O2 sensor. 1 wire. Signal between 0 and 1 volts from memory. -starter signal. 1 wire coming from the starter solenoid The ECU outputs are: -injectors. 2 wires only. The injectors get permanance power, via the resistor pack. The ECU earth the injectors to operate. Not sequential. Batch fire.

The TE31 Corolla did come with a T40 and some with a T50 I think. Same with most 2T engined cars. The Corolla "SR-5" TE37 did come with the 5-speed, as "SR-5" was thought to mean 5-speed back then. But the T40 and T50 gearbox is the same, just the 4-speed is missing some parts. It was possible at the time when new, to buy the extra parts for the gearbox to upgrade to 5-speed.

Well, it seams my car is almost sold. I maybe coming thru Devenport in a week or 2 for it's last drive.

The C stands for "Corolla". The XXX represents a little crown. "Corolla" means "crown of a flower". It is a Corolla emblem. Many Japanese Toyotas have a emblem of the specific car, where the Australian model will just have a Toyota logo.

I can probably help with some of this. But tell us this, what is the main thing you want to achive out of this excersize? What info are you after? And how can this help other people? Do you want to be able to order parts? Crossreference parts? Learn production dates from the frame number? PM me.

I put my TE37 style car up for sale on the forums last night just to see what would happen. Already got some interest from the mainland. I want $5000 for everything plus some spares.

Rob (KE25/3S-GE) and myself are going to Baskerville just for some slow laps on Saturday the 26th. I will be in the blue TE37. Nothing spectacular is planned. My tyres are old and cheap and I don't have a race seat in the car... unless I get the bug and work on it before then. We rang the caretaker and he said it's probably available. It would be fun to see a few other corollas out there also.

Crank notch at TDC, the notches in each camshaft should be facing up and in the middle of the cam bearing caps. This is adjustable with the different holes in the cam gears.

A KE70 sedan diff will bolt in a TE72 (T-18), if you use the tailshaft also. A KE55 diff uses leaf springs so will not bolt in unless yoou do alot of modification.

How about we confirm a date now for January. I am talking about a drive starting in Hobart to some surrounding country areas, maybe a BBQ, then the drive home. A general Toyota / performance car cruice, most of which will be corollas.

What about 15th December? Or another date?

I don't post here much sorry. The TE71 Levin shell is sold, most likely to the same guy commenting above.

I do. It has been in storage.

I have a TE71 LEVIN shell for sale, with JDM rust. Very cheap.

I may organise a combined corolla cruise this summer. Maybe in december, a drive in the country, maybe from Hobart then down the houn. Maybe even a BBQ.

That's Rob there playiing with the very old Wolf 3D.

This year I have helped Aaron get his Yellow AE86 going. He will be at Collinsvale. 4A-GZE with turbo etc. All I did was tune the MicroTech with laptop, but it goes fast.