Request For A Definitive Guide

[yakkmeister]

Hello everyone.

 

I am currently researching the best (simplest, least fabrications) method for inserting a 4AGE (either 16v or 20v) into a ke-30. I have discovered a distinct lack of a definitive guide on the subject.

There would appear to be a million ways of doing the same thing with none being entirely compatible with each other.

Since it seems to me that the engine bay and cross-member is shared up to at least the KE-55, a guide could be compiled to suit all vehicles from the KE-30 up to and including the KE-55.

 

Since this is such a common swap, it makes sense that the people with the most experience doing it would have a very good idea of the best way to achieve the desired result with the minimum of fuss and expense.

 

Now, I have heard rumor that there is a cross-member that bolts into the target vehicle's chassis and accepts an A engine block... I could be wrong?

Other considerations would be;

Possible donor cars for engines and what variant of 4A you'll find in it.

Donor cars for brakes and suspension parts - eg, RA-40 brakes and front struts.

Basic ideas on placement of fuel pumps, modifications to fuel lines or what-have-you.

 

I think lowest cost plus ease of transition should be paramount - wherever possible, any mods should be of the bolt-on variety over cutting and welding.

The main focus should be on getting the engine and gearbox in place and at a point where the engine should run, given all is good with the engine itself.

 

It's just an idea, but I know I can't do it myself and I'm loathe to begin buying parts when they may prove to be a waste of money because I don't need them or they just don't fit.

[greenmac80]

Hello everyone.

 

I am currently researching the best (simplest, least fabrications) method for inserting a 4AGE (either 16v or 20v) into a ke-30. I have discovered a distinct lack of a definitive guide on the subject.

There would appear to be a million ways of doing the same thing with none being entirely compatible with each other.

Since it seems to me that the engine bay and cross-member is shared up to at least the KE-55, a guide could be compiled to suit all vehicles from the KE-30 up to and including the KE-55.

 

Since this is such a common swap, it makes sense that the people with the most experience doing it would have a very good idea of the best way to achieve the desired result with the minimum of fuss and expense.

 

Now, I have heard rumor that there is a cross-member that bolts into the target vehicle's chassis and accepts an A engine block... I could be wrong?

Other considerations would be;

Possible donor cars for engines and what variant of 4A you'll find in it.

Donor cars for brakes and suspension parts - eg, RA-40 brakes and front struts.

Basic ideas on placement of fuel pumps, modifications to fuel lines or what-have-you.

 

I think lowest cost plus ease of transition should be paramount - wherever possible, any mods should be of the bolt-on variety over cutting and welding.

The main focus should be on getting the engine and gearbox in place and at a point where the engine should run, given all is good with the engine itself.

 

It's just an idea, but I know I can't do it myself and I'm loathe to begin buying parts when they may prove to be a waste of money because I don't need them or they just don't fit.

 

 

for ke55 and older you need custom mounts. i believe for a ke70 an ae71 xmember will bolt in and then you can use the 4a mounts.

for a 16v you can mount it in the right position so you don't need a custom gearbox xmember. for 20v i'm not sure curently working on it.

you'll need an ae71 t50 slave cylinder. almost any master cylinder can be used (try to find the slimmest one you can)

for 20v. cooling system.. find sam q. he has a cooling guide.

also the intake plenum will need to be made. this hits the clutch cylinder.

they can be found www.driftbitz.com

exxy but look good.

i am building my own.

the alternator will need to be moved as well. i'll be working on that soon as well.

for the 20v yager performance make a DLI kit. this basically eliminates the distributor and leaves only the CAS.

there isn't any bolt in diff upgrades. a ta22 celica one will work well but you'll need to get the leaf spring mounts moved.

you'll need the front yolk from an ae71 tailshaft welded to the rear end of your stock one, possibly shortened as well.

 

there is alot. look in engine conversions and rides and projects.

i'm doing the 20v conversion.

another guy has a coupe that is almost finished. have a read.

the 16v is easier. but an older engine. both engines have good sides and bad sides.

[Sam_Q]

my cooling guide is crap, but I have something decent in the works. In the meantime I can help you with any questions related to cooling or many other 20V questions should you need it. Have you been here:

 

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/faq/index.php/Main_Page

[LittleRedSpirit]

Hello everyone.

 

I am currently researching the best (simplest, least fabrications) method for inserting a 4AGE (either 16v or 20v) into a ke-30. I have discovered a distinct lack of a definitive guide on the subject.

There would appear to be a million ways of doing the same thing with none being entirely compatible with each other.

Since it seems to me that the engine bay and cross-member is shared up to at least the KE-55, a guide could be compiled to suit all vehicles from the KE-30 up to and including the KE-55.

 

Since this is such a common swap, it makes sense that the people with the most experience doing it would have a very good idea of the best way to achieve the desired result with the minimum of fuss and expense.

 

Now, I have heard rumor that there is a cross-member that bolts into the target vehicle's chassis and accepts an A engine block... I could be wrong?

Other considerations would be;

Possible donor cars for engines and what variant of 4A you'll find in it.

Donor cars for brakes and suspension parts - eg, RA-40 brakes and front struts.

Basic ideas on placement of fuel pumps, modifications to fuel lines or what-have-you.

 

I think lowest cost plus ease of transition should be paramount - wherever possible, any mods should be of the bolt-on variety over cutting and welding.

The main focus should be on getting the engine and gearbox in place and at a point where the engine should run, given all is good with the engine itself.

 

It's just an idea, but I know I can't do it myself and I'm loathe to begin buying parts when they may prove to be a waste of money because I don't need them or they just don't fit.

 

 

Thats a pretty big ask. Why don't you continue your research and your build until such time as you can write us a guide, rather than asking. Its not as common a conversion as you might think. Perhaps you need to talk to someone who has built this type of car before. There are a few on here, happy digging.

[yakkmeister]

Thats a pretty big ask. Why don't you continue your research and your build until such time as you can write us a guide, rather than asking. Its not as common a conversion as you might think. Perhaps you need to talk to someone who has built this type of car before. There are a few on here, happy digging.

 

I think that's probably a good idea.

I have been given a lot of very good information in the above replies.

 

My only concern is that the guide I produce will not be sufficient for others. Call it false modesty or whatever...

 

Well, I guess I'd better keep hoarding those note I've been taking :dance:

[Falken_KE30]

Good to see someone doing a search and reading before asking questions.

 

But as many others have said, dig harder.

 

Front strut wise, have a look here...

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21181

 

CHeers

[yakkmeister]

Good to see someone doing a search and reading before asking questions.

 

But as many others have said, dig harder.

 

Front strut wise, have a look here...

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21181

 

CHeers

 

Thanks for the info!

Sometimes searching doesn't reveal a whole lot... I don't really know why that is ...?

 

Wondering if the RA40 struts go in easy?

If so, some slotted rotors should help out the braking force, right? (well, less fade anyway...)

 

I'd like it if anything pertaining to this type of conversion could be pointed out here so I can have a more central point of reference. I will also post new stuff I find out here.

 

Again, thanks for the good information :sob:

[Falken_KE30]

i got RA40's in my KE30

 

Just cut the lower spring mount off and weld the 30 on, and use the KE30 top hats instead of the RA40. also use the KE30 spring.

 

Also need to use RA40 LCA and steering arm