SoulSearcher Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 i think i'm at 145,000...took info to auto electricians, will find out more tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulSearcher Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 ok, it WAS throwing out error codes... "codes relating to ignition, specifically going back to the distributor" the auto electrician has managed to get it to fault, but their equipment wastn't on it at the time, so they're going to try again after lunch...they say it's heat related and that mitsubishi's are renown for this problem.... Lesley :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Cool. Best of luck. Edited September 30, 2009 by Sportivo_65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 pull the Ecu out, open it up, have a clooooose look : ) T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irokin Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 Or do what I did. Buy a bag of ice, a styrofoam cooler and some chux cloths. Wrap your ECU in chux cloths and then stick your $2000 aftermarket computer in the styrofoam container with the ice and drive around like that because the retarded ECU manufacturer refuses to acknowledge a flaw in their design. Thank god I got a refund in the end :P Heat related ECU faults are a PIG to diagnose. Even when you do eventually pin it down trying to convince others of the same is a nightmare! Keep at it, you'll get there in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 pull the Ecu out, open it up, have a clooooose look : ) T Having been through it, I totally agree Teddy. I had written a reply today but deleted it and decided not to post it, but basically it was this: I'd hate to see you, Lesley, spend money on time spent with the car in workshop's being diagnosed. I believe the chances of it being the same issue as mine is very great, and I'd like to help save you some money, time and HEARTACHE!! Questions: When the car shut down, and then when an attempt was made to start it again straight away, can you tell me if the check engine light was illuminated or not?? Basically what I found with mine was, when the car did its shut down thing, when you'd try to start it again straight away - the check engine light WAS NOT ILLUMINATED. But upon starting the car again the next time successfully, the check engine light WAS ILLUMINATED, as it always should be when the ignition is turned on. So, we came to the conclusion that the car wouldn't start unless that light was on, as per usual. Suggestions for this being a symptom (and with mine - not showing codes) was this: That the computer was registering a fault (the wattage spike I was talking about) and then shutting down before giving itself time to log a code. Then on engaging the ignition again (immediately), the light wasn't on indicating that possibly the computer itself wasn't yet 're-booted' from the fail. If that makes sense... Once this spike happened again (from components getting hot on the computers board) the computer would just shut down. Now that that part on the board of the computer has been replaced, I've had 6 months of happy driving *touches wood* :rock: Anyways, could be completely different with yours, as its logging a code, mine wasn't; and I could be completely wrong, I'm not an expert. But I care and I just don't want to see you go through the same thing I have, and I know others have, with these Sportivo's. I guess, if it was me, its a cheap enough exercise to test the dizzy, make sure all is fine there, rotor button etc. That's what we did, it was a starting point and process of illumination. Got a secondhand dizzy from the wreckers, and now I've got a spare :wub:, but even with a new dizzy on it it still faulted with no codes. If the people you've got your car with get stuck, please let me know. I don't mind giving you the details of the shop here in Brisbane which fixed my computer, so they can maybe talk to the guys down there, or send it up even to have that component replaced. Best of luck luv, and please keep us posted. Julez :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulSearcher Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 i actually went through all the posts (yours, well this one, and terminals) and printed all that out for the auto electrician, who is great, I've used him a couple of times before, and they even parked my car away from everyone elses, cause they know i'm pedantic about my car :P anyway, he got it to fault today but the equipment wasn't hooked up, so they were trying again after lunch and I'm confident that it will do it again, we all agree that it was doing it when it was hot more frequently, and it will fault on idle. He also said that he'll take the ecu out and give it a visual inspection, so i feel confident that he'll find the fault and be able to resolve it quickly *touch wood* :rock: now to your question....when it cut out the check light was on, i turned the car off completely, including lights and aux power items and pressed the off button on the TT, turned it over and i reckon the check engine light was on. If I tried to turn it over immediately, it would try, but not catch. But if i waited just a couple of minutes the car would start and I could drive it. But I was only going short distances which is why i wasn't fully aware of the problem I think....on longer trips it just got hotter and hotter and would cut out within minutes of me driving off, (not fun at night on the freeway!)... I thought that maybe the thermostat was shagged and the engine was getting too hot and the computer was telling it to shut down, and in the service they just did they found that the middle of the thermostat had come loose! *god i'm lucky it didn't cause any major damage* so I was hopeful that with the replaced thermostat it wouldn't get so hot...but it still faulted so there went that idea out the window.... I'll have more news tomorrow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 How'd you get it to the workshop though?? Mine was a major mission, it was stalling every 50m, and stalled 3 times getting her on the car trailer to have her towed to the workshop!!!! It was just doing it ALL THE TIME in the later days, hot or cold, it started happening more frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 ill keep it brief, i can't remember if i typed this ages ago or not - If the Ecu has cap leakage, you can have unlimited amount of problems. Its good to see people describing in great detail about how its affected there own vehicle; Think about it this way though. If you have.. ____________ |...A.O......B.....| |......C....D...O..| |...............E....| |..F......O......G.| |____________| The "o" = The caps that leak A,B,C, D, E, F, G = ECU components .... = electronic tracks If any one of the O's descide to leak, in any direction, they basically create cross paths for the electrics, and in doing so damage the tracks. I don't think you would say the cap leakage burns the tracks, but under a microscope (personally seen it), it doesnt look too healthy. This is why any one of 2 million problems, all totally un-related can occur. There's no consistency as to why one cap leaks in any one direction. Sure you can argue the point each ecu in a 112 Turbo is on one particular position, and say they have.. 10 caps in total, and they can all leak in the same place...i could go on for hours in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulSearcher Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 How'd you get it to the workshop though?? Mine was a major mission, it was stalling every 50m, and stalled 3 times getting her on the car trailer to have her towed to the workshop!!!! It was just doing it ALL THE TIME in the later days, hot or cold, it started happening more frequently. uh, well mine would run for probably 40 klms and then have a hissy, then I'd have to wait for 5 minutes and then I'd get home, but on the cruise where we were driving a fair way, it cut out about 5 or 6 times I think, before I stopped for an hour it was cutting out every 100m or so.. Teddy: I understand that, it's like the caps on a main board for a computer, .... thank you for the diagram... I was flat out today so hubby rang the auto leccy and the codes are telling them that the ignition module (I think) is at fault, they re-set the ECU and it's been running trouble free for the whole of the afternoon, they ran it for 4 hours and no fault So it looks as though I might get my car back tomorrow :) I'll take it on the "it'll definately break down run" and see if she does...I REALLY miss her :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulSearcher Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 got the car back today, took it on a 200klm drive (up and down the freeway!) and she's running great! hubby was right, it was the ignition module in the distributor. Toyota got a second-hand one and it was fitted today (I rang the place that they got it from to get a price as I was worried about how much it was going to cost) and wait for it..... $85 for a new, second hand distributor :) apparently the distributors on a normal AE112 are the same as a sportivo :( Yay! got my car back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 Let's hope thats the last of it hey...!! As I said, we did exactly that with mine and it wasn't the end of the trouble... So just cross your fingers and hope yours was the easy fix, if so you're luck!! What what Teddy said was exactly what I was trying to say... Obviously I'm not a professional though so it must have made no sense. Why the ECU re-set if all it needed was a dizzy to be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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