Might Aswell Start My Blogger

[SLW42]

Nothing, not a road car at least. If you read, it says that he's stroking the engine which will naturally bump up the compression ratio (especially if the pistons don't get changed to match)

 

 

ah i see it confused me i was like wtf what comes out with 13.5:1 i didnt think anything has come out with that high compression yet!!!

 

and he is gonna be using OEM parts aswell dunno how long it will last

[ca18 bluebird]

Same in QLD, no service stations have it, but can get the v8 supercar spec stuff in drums. Am still deciding whether to put my 2jzeee on e85 or c16, 109 octane is like $210 for 20 litres, stuff knows what c16 is now. How much are you getting e85 20l drums for?

 

the only problem i see with e85 in drums, is that due to the high ethanol content it can absorb

moisture, so unless it is being kept in a air tight drum it will go off in a few weeks and you will be running a fair amount of hh20 through your injectors and fuel system. 2jz's make enough on pump anyway, combine that the the ke20 shell and i imagine you have a very stupid car. i owned an aristo with all the basics done to it (bout 230rwkw's), the 2jz is a very smooth torquey engine

 

Nothing, not a road car at least. If you read, it says that he's stroking the engine which will naturally bump up the compression ratio (especially if the pistons don't get changed to match)

 

yeah the standard 1.6 runs 11:1 so with the 2L crank it bumps it to 13.5:1. The heads on them are pretty detonation resistant and people have even run 13.5:1 on pump gas, however this will give no extra power and commonly less than 12.5:1 due to the amount of timing retard needed to keep detonation at bay. E85 should solve this this and hopefully run it quite reliably

[oke020]

Sounds like you starting with a honda engine?

[Hiro Protagonist]

Sounds like you starting with a honda engine?

 

Nah, B16 is 81mm bore, I'd be guessing stroked SR16VE, fits the high compression/86mm bore/high revs 1.6L perfectly, plus it makes decent power to begin with.

 

Plus, using a Honda engine in a RWD application (apart from an F20C) is generally asking for trouble, because of the backwards rotation.

[oke020]

Nah, B16 is 81mm bore, I'd be guessing stroked SR16VE, fits the high compression/86mm bore/high revs 1.6L perfectly, plus it makes decent power to begin with.

 

Plus, using a Honda engine in a RWD application (apart from an F20C) is generally asking for trouble, because of the backwards rotation.

 

 

But cutting the mounts off a diff, flipping it 180 and welding it all back up is somewhat appealing to me :)

[Hiro Protagonist]

But cutting the mounts off a diff, flipping it 180 and welding it all back up is somewhat appealing to me :)

 

There's something inherently wrong about running a diff upside down isn't there? Like the pinion wheel won't get proper lubrication or something like that

[ca18 bluebird]

^^^ bingo buddy!

 

and for everyone else that isnt familiar with the engine

 

it has 129kw's standard in 1.6l form

it runs vvl (nissans vtec)

280deg 11.1mm lift cams standard

 

i will be running custom headers and intake plenum, as these are the 2 weak major points of the motor and i will drop in a sr20 crank (i still need to find one in good condition so if ya have one shoot me a pm rwd or fwd doesnt bother me)

 

i have figured out a way to mount the rwd box to the fwd engine

 

and there are also some other factors i will have to deal with such as dizzy on the back of the head and so forth,

 

I have a defected and rusted mock up shell here i can hack to get things up and running. to start with ill just keep the dizzy at the back of the head and cut a hole in the firewall. Once she is running good ill convert to cas and probably have to a stand alone ignition comp to run individual coils. If there is a way to run individual coils from the standard ecu easily i would consider this as the timming maps for the sr16ve ecu are quite aggressive.

[ca18 bluebird]

here is the mock up shell

 

 

 

 

 

[ca18 bluebird]

But cutting the mounts off a diff, flipping it 180 and welding it all back up is somewhat appealing to me :)

 

but running it upside down.....that wouldn't even change the way it spins would it? i don't know maybe my brain isnt working, but it would still be spinning the same way in my head just starts spinning 180deg before hand

[Hiro Protagonist]

but running it upside down.....that wouldn't even change the way it spins would it? i don't know maybe my brain isnt working, but it would still be spinning the same way in my head just starts spinning 180deg before hand

 

Running a diff upside down will swap the rotating direction of the axles. Try rotating a pen about its long axis, and then as you do (requires a bit of co-ordination), flip it end to end. It'll then be rotating the opposite direction.

[ca18 bluebird]

Running a diff upside down will swap the rotating direction of the axles. Try rotating a pen about its long axis, and then as you do (requires a bit of co-ordination), flip it end to end. It'll then be rotating the opposite direction.

oh yeah of course, forgot the axles would be reversed, i knew my brain wasnt working

[oke020]

yeah its easier to imagine the pinion spinning in a constant direction and the crown wheel swapping sides

Edited March 26, 2009 by oke020

[beerhead]

Sounds a little ambitious, which is always good. But 150rwkw is going to need at least 9-10,000rpm and some major oiling mods I'd think. They're a cam switcher at least, so it is possible to have some bottom end power.

 

Now F20C's and SR16VE's have comparable rod ratios(1.8+ from memory) and ability to sustain high revs without exploding due to this, but once you go 2L you'll be back at 1.6 RR, which is a potential bearing chewer at over 8-9000rpm. The longer the rod, the slower the piston speed, which dynamically has the same effect as running a longer duration camshaft. So I doubt 280duration 11mm lift will cut the mustard to get enough rev's out of the motor to hit those kind of figures once the motor is stroked. You'll probably just end up with the same power as an SR20VE, which has peak power at 6000rpm, so it's going to need something 300 + duration to pull those kinda figures.

 

Nice engine choice though, if they came RWD people would be all over these nice VVTI Nissan motors.

[Redwarf]

There's something inherently wrong about running a diff upside down isn't there? Like the pinion wheel won't get proper lubrication or something like that

 

Diffs are designed to take stress in one direction. By running them backwards you are stressing the wrong face, and you'll go through diffs at an excessive rate.

[ca18 bluebird]

Sounds a little ambitious, which is always good. But 150rwkw is going to need at least 9-10,000rpm and some major oiling mods I'd think. They're a cam switcher at least, so it is possible to have some bottom end power.

 

Now F20C's and SR16VE's have comparable rod ratios(1.8+ from memory) and ability to sustain high revs without exploding due to this, but once you go 2L you'll be back at 1.6 RR, which is a potential bearing chewer at over 8-9000rpm. The longer the rod, the slower the piston speed, which dynamically has the same effect as running a longer duration camshaft. So I doubt 280duration 11mm lift will cut the mustard to get enough rev's out of the motor to hit those kind of figures once the motor is stroked. You'll probably just end up with the same power as an SR20VE, which has peak power at 6000rpm, so it's going to need something 300 + duration to pull those kinda figures.

 

Nice engine choice though, if they came RWD people would be all over these nice VVTI Nissan motors.

 

the f20c is an 87mm bore and 84 stoke so the rod ratio of the 16ve is better as it has a 86mm bore and 68mm stroke. In fact its closer to the stroked 2L version of the engine than it is to the 1.6. people often run sr16ve cams in sr20ve's as an upgrade and the sr16ves have more lift durration and overlap. The cam of choice is the n1 288deg 12mm, but i choose the 16ve cams over the n1's becuase of 2 reasons. 1 power from 4500-7000rpm is better with the 16ve's and 2 price.

 

tbh i don't think i need to rev 10,000rpm to make the power i want, but more importantly i want a good midrange and i will not sacrafice this for a few extra kw's. If i fall short i fall short, i would rather the car be fun than be a dyno queen.

 

also there is a lot more to the 280deg than mets the eye, you can't just compare the cam without knowing its ramp angles or overlap. The sr16ve cams actually run 70deg of overlap which helps up top a bit.

 

just as a reference i have seen 110rwkw's out of the standard 16ve with just tune, intake plenum (itb's) and header.

 

thanks for your comments though, great contribution, and you are right i am a bit ambitious but i will post my results either way, but as said earlier i wont be dissapoited if i don't make the power, but will be if it isn't a fun car.

 

also just found out engine should be here next week