What was the go with the wheels on mud?

Won't fit over the brakes :laff:

 

As soon as I figure out the damned RA40 brake system, I'll be back into it.

Right, so after a failed attempt at a VN V8 master on KE55 booster arrangement (Ran out of brakes......again), I decided it would be a bright idea to hammer a RA60 booster/master combo into the 55...

 

That, really wasn't such a great idea, for starters, the bolt spacing is all kinds of wrong, secondly, it's feckin massive, and just won't fit.

 

So after a bit of fishing about, found that a twin outlet Subaru Impreza booster and master fits in place.

 

Perfectly.

 

Same bolt spacing, booster is a bit larger, and only required a slight trim of the clutch cable cup and that weird lip just above where the booster sits..... Master is 1 1/16 for those interested.

 

Now, the lines, one line exits the front of the master at the top, no issues there, kinda like a factory one (I think, been too long, can't remember), but the second line points to the drivers side, as such, it requires a mild massage to the strut tower to make it sit in place.

 

Only major downside was that the booster was big enough to cover where I intended to put a hydro clutch setup, further beers need to be had so I can formulate a plan to fix this....

 

Once thoroughly bled, a quick spin around the block revealed decent pedal feel, and a tendancy to lock the tires with very little pedal effort, rears lock first, likely due to me not setting them correctly in the first place, but hey, it's a start. May take a little getting used to......

 

Now, threads worthless without pic etc. etc.

 

One very shagged 55 booster.

 

 

One not shagged scooby booster, note the length of the shaft that connects to the pedal, I'll get to that.

 

 

This is the original shaft and connecting pin mount thing from the 55 booster.

 

 

This is the scooby booster shaft thing after I tapped a thread much further down the shaft and shortened the shaft with a dremel, I shortened it a little too much so I had to use the Scooby pin bracket thing, which required widening the gap slightly to fit on the 55 pedal, and the hole for the pin needed to be enlarged a touch.

 

 

And these two show it fitted, looking somewhat factory (If you inore the precision hammer and grinder work to the stuff that was in it's way)

 

 

In short, it can be done, it's not pretty, but it's very effective.

Double post because information regarding fuel pumps.

 

We all know there's 2 different kinds of K engine fuel pump.

 

Straight arm pump and curved arm pump.

 

There's a tale, that says if your engine uses a straight arm type, and it shits the pump, you can fit a curved arm type pump in it's place if you remove the plastic/rubber spacer that sits between the pump and the block first.

 

This is a myth.

 

All you'll end up doing is shearing the arm off the pump after a short while, it'll run, it'll idle, it'll free rev for all of about 10 minutes, just to lull you into a false sense of security.

 

And then BAM, you have a fuel pump arm in the bottom of your sump, and you're stranded on the side of the road wondering WTF just happened.

 

This is what will happen to a curved arm pump running in a straight arm engine.

 

 

This is what you have to rig up when you realise you have no more pumps except an electronic lift pump, and you absolutely have to get home that day.

 

 

Seriously, there are times I wonder why I bother with this bloody thing..... :glare: