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5k Power??

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hey guys thinking bout buyin another rolla/toyota.

 

5k how much rwkw u able to get out of these things with say 2g spent on it. not include motor box etc. twim carbies head work, reground cam etc etc....

 

its either 5k or spend a bit more and going 4age NA.. the car is still undecided.. either ke20, 36 or KP36 publica.

 

cheers guys.

I spent 1300 bucks on the engine rebuild, plus a 50 dollar mystery cam. Couple that with twin dellortos and a dyno tune, I'm making 68.8 rwkw. Head is basically stock, with head work I'd expect you could make another 5 or so.

 

As other people have commented, that's comparable to mild tuned 4AGEs etc.

  • Author

sweet your from adelaide. where about did you get the rebuild done? would you recommend the 5k or go a 4k only cause of avalibility??

  • Author

well i can get my hand on a 4age with box and run twin carbs off it have manifolds etc. what required to fit in a kp36 publica? mounts, will i need custom made tailsahft etc? will cross member be fine?

 

only really want to spend 3g max on the car. not including car cost

I think it wrong too compare the 5k and the 4age.

 

Personal opinion of mine go the 5k.

 

Not too hard too find

well i can get my hand on a 4age with box and run twin carbs off it have manifolds etc. what required to fit in a kp36 publica? mounts, will i need custom made tailsahft etc? will cross member be fine?

 

only really want to spend 3g max on the car. not including car cost

 

will this be done properly?? going thru Regency??

Dyno figures are relative and only useful for tuning if using the same dyno. Yes it would be interesting to compare his figures to a healthy stock 4age dynoed on the same day at the same dyno.

 

No doubt Philbey got a massive gain getting his car tuned, with a big improvement between before and after runs.

 

Think about it. You do a proper rebuild on a 5k, (say $1200-2000) and add a set of twin webers/dellortos with manifold, linkages, tuning parts and filters (up to a grand easy) and you are in the hole by 2 to 3 grand. That is not including extractors, exhaust etc. which you would want with whichever motor you end up going for.

 

If you are running a lightweight ke1x or a KP36 publica with limited underbonnet working space, by all means stick with a K series.

 

With the later cars with more under bonnet real estate it just makes sense to start out with a bigger motor, with more torque from the get go and further tuning potential. Look at the old escorts which came with 2L motors in a car the same size as a ke3x.

 

A ke1x + 1 adult passenger is comparable to the weight of a ke2x.

A ke2x + 1 adult passenger is comparable to the weight of a ke3x.

 

Taz, I just can't help thinking that if you stuffed your turbo motor into a ke1x it would be so much quicker. After all a ke3x is about 20% heavier than a ke1x. 20% is a big difference to the overall power to weight ratio.

Edited by Felix

Tell me about it!!!!

 

I'm sort of chasing both Madrolla68 and untubbed_20 (although they're both running/have run a fair bit more boost than me) in terms of 1/4 mile times with 13.7 and 13.4 respectively. All I have managed so far is a 14.5.

I think the biggest difference here is the fact that they did there times in KE10's and I'm stuck with the weight of a '55. :rolla:

I should also mention that I run somewhere about 11:1 compression.

 

My reasons for the build were not focused on big power gain either, I just wanted to have a fiddle and play around with the motor. I didn't want to root around with all the extra shit involved with a conversion, cutting chopping, fabbing etc. I just wanted bolt in fun.

 

Further to that, I did it quite cheap and spent a fair while collecting bits. My motor cost me 100 bucks (5K) and I built it completely up myself, so I saved there.

 

Plus, I get lots of enjoyment out of the actual engine building.

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