I have just got a 90 corolla 16v twincam. When i got it it had a dodgy immobiliser. I have got most of it unhooked and am to the stage where it will turn over and start but it stalls after a second every time. The fuel pump is still getting power when it stalls. Any ideas on where to look next. I assume it is still electrical but not sure

dodgy how???

my immobiliser was "dodgy" but it just ended up being a dud battery

just make sure that you have everything unplugged from the immobiliser

Edited June 4, 200917 yr by kiahn

dodgy how???

my immobiliser was "dodgy" but it just ended up being a dud battery

just make sure that you have everything unplugged from the immobiliser

 

When i got it the siron hazard lights were flashing, the siron had been cut and it wouldnt turn over. the fuel pump was no longer working but i have since put in a new pump. I have disconnected some of the wires i could trace. Now it will stat but stalls every time. If i disconnect the immobiliser it wont fire it just turns over endlesly.

One step foward 2 steps back. It wont even start now but i figured out it isnt getting any power to the injectors. so this brings me to where do i look to solve this problem

Does it actually run for a second when you let the ignition key return, or is it firing on the starter circuit only?

 

What if you keep the key on 'start' for 5-10seconds?

Does it actually run for a second when you let the ignition key return, or is it firing on the starter circuit only?

 

What if you keep the key on 'start' for 5-10seconds?

 

It was starting for a second and running on its own. now it wont run its only turns over on the starter. I havent changed anything since last night and i was going to test the injector signal when it started but now it wont. the only thing that changed was the battery was disconected as i don't have one for it yet

I still havent got this car running properly yet. I havent done anything on it for quiet a while as I don't really know where to look. I have got it to the stage where it will start and run but it idles at around 3000 rpm and blows HUGE amounts of white smoke. It will fill the shed in a matter of minutes. The smoke gets much worse as it starts to warm up. I have checked the compression on all cylindars and is fine, also a friend put a fuel pressure reader on it and he thought it was about the right pressure. I just purchased seca with a 4age in it with a shot gearbox so I should have all the parts needed to get it running. Any thoughts on where I should start?

For the length it has been sitting the exhaust would be full of water and condensating when it warms up or you have a BHG, Check the water level as it can make the idle high, Do you know how to reset the ecu?

 

Try that and see how you go.

For the length it has been sitting the exhaust would be full of water and condensating when it warms up or you have a BHG, Check the water level as it can make the idle high, Do you know how to reset the ecu?

 

Try that and see how you go.

 

Water is fine, as is oil. to have this much trouble from a BHG would it show up on a compresssion test and possible drain the water into the oil. Not sure about the computer

The only other problem was it had been sitting and had some water in the fuel tank as the fuel pum had rusted to the point of not working, so i thought this or the imobiliser could have damaged the injectors

Yeah I read that, I was giving a description which was bland, Maybe drop the water and put new stuff in and give it a good bleed, If the coolant temp sensor is reading cool then it will idle high (how long did you run it), To do a quick ecu reset disconnect the - lead from the battery and put it against the positive side of the battery then hook it back up.

So leave the positive still connected when I do it? I left it running for around 15 mins, the temp gauge came up, don't remember how much tho

So leave the positive still connected when I do it? I left it running for around 15 mins, the temp gauge came up, don't remember how much tho

 

Yeah leave it connected.

Is there a bleed valve? I topped up the wated, it was only down a tiny bit but I thought the last person may not have bled it. I'm begining to think il have to remove the head and have a look. I have either replaced or tested most components that make it go. plugs, leads, coils, (havent done distributer) puel pump, pressure at regulator, injectors return line, map sensor, all the fuses, compression, plus a few others that I can't think of. tried the battery to reset the computer but nothing changed.