Satyr Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 I have an aftermarket steering wheel and the appropriate SAAS boss kit. I can remove the horn assembly - although i busted that little retention spring mechanism after messing around with it too much (really peeved and kinda worried bout if this will cause me any problems). ;) I yanked the wheel so hard - and still couldn't get it off, so I'm guessing i need a steering wheel puller as the instructions said i might. Anyone got experience with getting these stock wheels off? I peeked further into the steering column and couldn't see any other screws i had missed. Quote
Bowler Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 did you remove the nut on the end of the spline that holds the steering wheel on? Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 1) Make sure steering wheel is centred and wheels pointing straight ahead (helps with alignment when putting the new wheel on) 2) Remove horn pad - depending on early or late model this will either be a spring-loaded tab or a screw, both on the under-side of the steering-wheel boss cover. Disconnet horn wire too if necessary 3) Undo steering column nut but do not remove - a turn or two should suffice. This step is critical to your health 4) Using the palm of your hand, bash the back of the steering wheel in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions, alternating opposite sides of the wheel (ie 12, 6, 3, 9 etc) to jar the wheel off the spline. If the wheel hasn't been removed in a long time it will take a fair bit of effort - you keep the nut on the thread to stop the wheel from flying off the spline and hitting you in the head. 5) Once wheel is loose, remove the column nut and take the steering wheel off the spline. Quote
Satyr Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Posted June 9, 2009 Yea - i had removed the spline nut entirely - after your response Hiro - I'm going to change to that tactic hehe. I'm thinking Hiro's 4th steps is what i need. It's a 96 model spring-loaded. Quote
MYSTIK[RL] Posted June 9, 2009 Report Posted June 9, 2009 1) Make sure steering wheel is centred and wheels pointing straight ahead (helps with alignment when putting the new wheel on)2) Remove horn pad - depending on early or late model this will either be a spring-loaded tab or a screw, both on the under-side of the steering-wheel boss cover. Disconnet horn wire too if necessary 3) Undo steering column nut but do not remove - a turn or two should suffice. This step is critical to your health 4) Using the palm of your hand, bash the back of the steering wheel in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions, alternating opposite sides of the wheel (ie 12, 6, 3, 9 etc) to jar the wheel off the spline. If the wheel hasn't been removed in a long time it will take a fair bit of effort - you keep the nut on the thread to stop the wheel from flying off the spline and hitting you in the head. 5) Once wheel is loose, remove the column nut and take the steering wheel off the spline. i used the above as hiro stated with one difference, i used a steering wheel puller. its a hell of alot easier and safer and they are all that expensive, and you can usually get one from most parts stores ;) and look like this Quote
philbey Posted June 19, 2009 Report Posted June 19, 2009 A variation on the same theme: Wind the nut out flush with the end of the shaft. Jam both your knees behind the steering wheel and brace against the dash or floor. Put as much pressure on the backof the wheel as you can with your knees, then hit the shaft with a rawhide mallet or wooden mallet. Or a brass drift. The impact on the shaft will break the taper. Quote
Satyr Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Posted July 6, 2009 Ok - had to use the steernig wheel puller. Got it off fine :sob: However - i went to put the boss kit over the spline and found that it is too deep for my socket wrench :sob: It also looks like the aftermarket wheel will be sitting a fair bit further forward than the stock due to the length of the boss shaft. Is anyone able to give me a side-on pic of their steering column just to compare? I'm thinking rather than buy more tools, it may be cheaper to just pay a mechanic to do it. Any thoughts on that from experience? Quote
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