PMP020 Posted September 4, 2009 Report Posted September 4, 2009 nice work!!!! i remember the days when i used to do this kind of stuff to the ke20s i bought then sold. its good fun. cheers, scott. Quote
son of stig Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 Sooo i randomly decided to buy a KE25 about 6 weeks ago, basically to put a few good bits from it into the 20, and then put it the ke25 back together with spares and give to a mate who needs a car. Bits i figured id swap into the 20 were: -supposedly rebuilt 4k with a 3k head on it (though I'm not sure how to verify that) mated to 5 speed from ke70 (the motor in the ke20 was starting to blow a little smoke, so why not?) -newish exhaust, not loud, standard headers, but all sealed unlike my tractor spec ke20 -new carpet -radiator -front seats -dash cluster (with trip meter) and a few other little bits and pieces. everything else i decided was already better on the ke20. So i waited till i had a night free, lined them up in my shed, and locked the door until it was done. Quote
13BT_KE20 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 shed looking alot cleaner mate, nice work. New addition to the car collection is never a bad thing haha Quote
son of stig Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) Started with the KE25 incase i had to abort for some unforseen reason and go home in the KE20. Disconnected and removed all the obvious stuff; radiator, hoses, wires, tailshaft, gearbox crossmember, exhaust etc. Also took off the centre of the rad support panel and brace to make a bit more room. On the interior side, took out the seats, carpet, seatbelts, dash, and gear shifter From there it was pretty easy to pull out the motor and box, though i forgot to buy chain on my way up to lift it with, so i busted out a hefty tow strap. I was by myself which made it a little trickier, wasnt too hard but at one point it was quite uncomfortable as i had to lift the gearbox end and push the engine crane back with my legs. I think it was just after this point that i washed my hands, had a cup of tea and a cigarette, and braced to do it all again to the white ke20. Removal stage complete. Time for another tea and smoke, and get set to put the 20 back together. Edited October 20, 2009 by son of stig Quote
Raven Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Thats SLO-030's KE25 who sold it to me. The motor was never rebuilt. The head was though. 3K head on a 4K block. It has the sports system off my KE25 project car on it too and I also changed the front stud pattern over to suit 114.3x4 via a hub swap. Still runs the standard discs. :) Quote
son of stig Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) Assorted bits to put back in Swapped over a few things like engine mounts and carby and shoved it all back in Back in place with most stuff reconnected For some reason the original exhaust on the (AMI) ke20 mounted differently to all the other (jap) ke2x's ive got parts from. So i just swapped the mounts and with a bit of fiddling under the car with arms and legs in all direction, got it all hooked up. The one in the middle is the aussie ke20 one, the middle doesnt have a flange, its just pressed one side over the other Edited October 20, 2009 by son of stig Quote
son of stig Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) With the 5 speed being from a KE70, the gear shifter was a little further back Enter the persuaders... It was a quiet night and about 2am at this point, and for about 2 seconds my conscience though of how the noise would have swept the valley and woken up some livestock, but it had to be done to progress. A loud 15 seconds or so later it was spacious enough Covered the gap with the plate from the KE25, and put all the interior back together with the better carpet, seats, and dash. Had to swap the speedo cable with the dash as it screwed in on the ke25, and clipped in with a different size end on the ke20. Also had to swap 4 of the wires on the dash cluster plug as they went to different lights/gauges on the different dashes. I wrote down somewhere which ones to swap if anyone runs into that problem in the future Put all the radiator and front end back together, fired it up, drove it home and went to bed! Edited October 20, 2009 by son of stig Quote
Tally Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Good work mate! Whats the fate of the 25 ahahha? Also is that an RX7 in the back? Quote
son of stig Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 the ke25 will be reassembled using the ke20 bits and given to a mate (who has already prepaid for it haha) Yeah theres a widebody RX7 and Datto 260z in the background Quote
Tally Posted October 21, 2009 Report Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) if the RX-7 is registered: http://www.sarotors.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74 Edited October 21, 2009 by Tally Quote
son of stig Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 if the RX-7 is registered: http://www.sarotors.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74 haha yeah ive been to a few of the rotor bday cruises with my old pearl white 7 (R-FLEX-7), always a good day. Been meaning to get the racecar out to one for about 3 years now. one day... Quote
PMP020 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 love your work!!! ive had a few 1 night stands with a couple of KE2#'s in my time also. making one good ke20 out of two then flogging off the lesser of the two :dance: i used to do it for the fun and also just quietly made a tidy profit on the side :S keep it up. cheers, scott Quote
son of stig Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Posted October 25, 2009 So who wants to explain to me why it is beneficial to put a 3k head on a 4k like the motor ive just put in? I assume it would raise compression a bit? I can't really tell much noticable difference between it and the standard 4k that id driven about 30,000km, other than the usable power drops off about 1000rpm higher. Still doesnt rev like the standard 3K's ive driven though. Quote
Raven Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 So who wants to explain to me why it is beneficial to put a 3k head on a 4k like the motor ive just put in? I assume it would raise compression a bit? I can't really tell much noticable difference between it and the standard 4k that id driven about 30,000km, other than the usable power drops off about 1000rpm higher. Still doesnt rev like the standard 3K's ive driven though. 3K motor's rev harder due to the shorter stroke. The 3K head on the 4K block that came out of the KE25 that I put on had been shaved slighty, which upped the compression which in turn pulled a shitload harder than when it had the farked 4K head on the block. There will be a difference in torque output between the two motors though, being the 3K/4K hybrid will have more usable torque and therefore outperform a 3K, but not by a huge amount. Throw a pair of twin sidies on it, a bigger cam and and some extractors and it will be a whole new engine. :S Quote
son of stig Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Posted October 25, 2009 3K motor's rev harder due to the shorter stroke. The 3K head on the 4K block that came out of the KE25 that I put on had been shaved slighty, which upped the compression which in turn pulled a shitload harder than when it had the farked 4K head on the block. There will be a difference in torque output between the two motors though, being the 3K/4K hybrid will have more usable torque and therefore outperform a 3K, but not by a huge amount. Throw a pair of twin sidies on it, a bigger cam and and some extractors and it will be a whole new engine. :S sweet, cheers. makes sense. as tempting as the upgrades are, I'm trying to keep the motor as standard as possible for now. i keep forgetting my dailys are dailys, don't want to end up with another modified project in the shed! Quote
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