NIZLAH Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 more than welcome too mate :), been cranking the welding on it in the past few days so on a good roll, then I can finish prepping for paint and get that done, not sure yet if I'll get Callum to spray it or not yet since I'm out of a job currently.. may end up doing it myself... doing a 20v swap to my mate Scott's 86 at mine in 3 weeks time also (you've met him once or twice before)
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Posted February 11, 2012 Happy to help any way I can. Have been having fuelling issues this weekend. Was leaning out on all 4 cylinders so looking at a fuel supply issue. I have put in a different fuel pump relay, and fuel filter, but I think its an issue with the fpr, as I had the same issues after. I removed the reg and tried to clean it and remove any contaminants. So far so sgood, but I dare say tomorrow will be the real test. Will have to toydiy to see what fits. Just got home from an all night shop fit. Moved a shop from Northlakes to Chermside Westfield. Big night indeed, now to try and sleep.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Posted February 12, 2012 OK got tot he bottom of the fuelling issues, number to injector wire is loose at the terminal. Had a few more diagnostics to run and eliminated the injector, fuel pump, reg or ecu as the fault. Its just another issue caused by either Anthony Kellams lack of crimping ability or adaptronics early generic pin design. Will unplug the ecu today and fix the wires.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Posted February 12, 2012 Just got a new set of rear brakes in the mail. I'm doing the ta/ra40 gt disc upgrade on it (thanks Glenn!). The calipers are supposed to be better nick than the ones I presently use, that squeak and ruin the handbrake adjustment. Hopefully now I can do up the rear end a bit more. I've got the brake upgrade, some beautifully made Goodridge adr approved brake lines in black colour, and a brand new left rear bearing on one of my spare axles. So hopefully that stops my left rear axle seal leaking once the new seal and retainer goes in. Should be a perfect rear end once you consider the freshly lapped gears and new bearings in the centre and the new handbrake cables. Maybe still need to put in a once piece tail shaft at some stage. So might change diff, box and engine oils at the same time and refresh the brake fluid as well. Then once I fix the wiring Ill be ready for another tuning trip to the strip to check how its all running and make further improvements.
NIZLAH Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 nice.... is the rear brake upgrade straight bolt on?
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Posted February 14, 2012 The rotors are the same, I think the brackets are slightly different, but only in their rotational placement of the rotor, I will know more once I do it. Looks like a more solid pair of calipers.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Posted February 26, 2012 Well Ive done the celica caliper mod. Its pretty good. The Brackets that bolt on the diff ae the same, except for the shielding, which needs to be cut away from the mount holes on the ae86 caliper to allow the celica units in. The calipers bolt on, but are a little flusher to the bracket than the ae86 items, so much so that if you use ae86 rotor, bracket and celica caliper, the fixed part of the celica caliper will just score the rotors. This means the celica rotor is 1-2 mm taller than the corolla one. Being that they use the same mounting bracket, and the same axle, then I can deduce that the caliper from the celica has less offset and its rotor has more to compensate. By comparison the ae86 parts have the reverse, a shorter rotor and a caliper with a shad more offset. I was simply able to use the celica caliper on the ae86 rotor and bracket by simply tin snipping away the extra shielding, and by slipping in one broad, flat high tensile washer in between the caliper and the bracket to shift it over that little bit. Its all bled, bedded, handbrake connected, with new Penrite sin high temp fluid, and of course, the new Braided lines from Goodridge. I also chucked on some 15x7.5 work fins cause they had good tyres on them, even though they reduce my track by 20-30mm overall. I ʞ©$ɟing pray these caliper give me years of trouble free use before they wear out. They do look to be easier to fix if the slides ʞ©$ɟ up than the ae86 units. There are parts you can just replace.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 26, 2012 Author Report Posted February 26, 2012 This is the caliper, toyo diy has this as the te71 levin disc rear caliper.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Posted February 28, 2012 Handbrake seems to be still working, its better than ever so far. Overall the calipers feel the same as the others to drive one, but they don't seem to rattle apart when you use the E brake. Yay! Ive tested the bias and the fronts lock first, so that's just how it should be. Off to the wreckers today to find a starter to replace the one that needs new contacts. Sick of push starting or waiting till it cools to get going again.
ke70dave Posted February 28, 2012 Report Posted February 28, 2012 hey mate, nice photos. re: starter motor. there is a auto electrician in wynnum that can rebuild your starter motor for a very reasonable price, brand new everything. i got an alternator done there last week and it was $165, i think a starter is a tad cheaper (no electronics on a starter) i got my 4k and 4age starter done there as well, but i can't recall the price, was yrs ago! something to think about as opposed to finding a 2nd hand one. 1
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 I have a credit note from GDM wreckers to use up. I have 2x 4age starters already, one was overhauled (which only cost $50 at my auto leccy) and the one I am using now came from my last halfcut. Its the modern 1.4kw jobbie, sounds like a hilux is starting up when it fires, but it has dirty or worn contacts meaning that with peak operating temp, it just goes click and doesn't turn. Easily fixed by a clean and a $10 set of contacts. Cheers for the info about the leccy but I got a guy here in Rocklea a bit closer to home.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Posted February 29, 2012 So the wreckers had nothing, so I used my credit note to get a 2azfe top cover and will use that to check bonnet clearance on the other build. Also went to trade tools and got cir clip pliers and a propane bottle to allow me to solder some big cables together really nicely. Mainly for putting lugs on my ground and starter cables better. Really want to do everything I can to make the thing start great. Will pop past the shed one day this week and swap back to the older more reliable starter and have this one that's annoying me fixed up. I was able to fix the tolerance in it by cooling it down (when it wouldn't start after lunch), which simply meant pouring 3 litres of water over it slowly, then presto, started right away.
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Posted March 1, 2012 Fitted AE86 Starter motor. Dropping off ae92 high torque unit to be serviced this arvo. Might get a wheel alignment aswell.
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