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4-ac Head Gasket


doots

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hey guys changing the gasket on my mates ae82

 

just need to know if there's any hidden secret to it. for example my dads n13 pulsar you had to replace the bolts everytime you take them out cos they stretch.

i don't have a manual I'm basically adlibing this whole thing so some hints would be a hoot.

 

and if any1 knows the torque setting for the bolts that would be awesome too.

 

cheers

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drain fluids. unbolt things until there is just a cylinder head left on the block (ie take manifolds and timing belt/chain off) undo head bolts in little increments at a time starting from the outside and working your way in (opposite order to when you do them up) remove cylinder head.

 

go nuts and clean everything!!

 

make sure bores are still cross hatched and nothing looks overly broken/corroded. clean surface of block. get head skimmed, valves vac tested, head hardness tested, and if you are really thorough head should be pressure tested. put new head gasket on (make sure its correct way around and up).

 

if they are torque to yield bolts (they will be tightened like 30nm then 90degrees then 90degrees again) then they MIGHT be good for ONE more use, as long as they are not stretched and don't bottom out in the thread or anything. probably safer to replace them. if they are conventional bolts (ie 30nm then 68nm then 90nm sequence or similar) then you can probably reuse them, just make sure the threads are clean, and they aren't damaged somehow.

 

pop some oil on the threads and under the heads of the bolts.

 

place cylinder head carefully in position, follow tightening torque sequence and order that comes with head gasket.

 

installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, ie bolt everything back on carefully, make sure valve timing is correct, turn engine over by hand two turns to make sure nothing hits anything internally, and carefully reassemble the rest of it.

 

workshop manual will make your life much much easier.

 

Robert.

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..and in addition!

 

Make sure you have number one cyl on TDC on its firing stroke before you take it apart, and if I were you I'd photgraph the cam setup. (in fact I'd photograph everything!) You do need to get the cam timing RIGHT when you reassemble it.

 

Don't let shit get down the oil holes in the head/block when your cleaning them, (will kill the bearings!) and minimise any bits of dirt and gasket getting into the waterways. You can put a stocking over the end of the top radiator hose for a week when you run the car afterwards, and that will help strain stuff out before it gets into the radiator and blocks the cores.

 

Find a bolt with the same thread as a head bolt and cut 2 longitudinal grooves down the thread with a hacksaw. Screw this down the headbolt holes in the block a few times, until it comes out with the grooves clean. A lot of shit gets down those holes and can stop the bolts from seating down far enough to pull the head down properly. Do the same for the manifold bolts if they have them on the head.

 

If you have to remove the valves, spin them in a drill held in a vice and clean the back of them with wet & dry sandpaper, carefully avoiding the seat. You can polish them with 400 or 600 grit and a bit of kero or CRC. This helps the gas flow considerably! You can get the same stuff on a flapper wheel to polish the ports if you have the valves out, or make your own from a bit of steel rod and a hacksaw..

 

Check the manifold gaskets carefully for seating problems. Any little leaks from the exhaust means you will have to find the problem, or at least pay particular attention to reassembling them. Make sure the bolts/studs are in clean condition and they wind right up to the end of their threads easily before you put it back together.

 

...and no beers around while anyone is working on it! I've seen guys make really stupid mistakes after a couple of tinnies...

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cheers guys your a bunch of legends. if id have said this on ns.com i wouldntve got a single reply lol.

work starts tomorrow i'll keep posted if i have any problems.

 

and figured a workshop manual would be the way to go but its my mates car so he can do it as difficultly as he wants.

 

thats pretty unfortunate about the tinnies. i guess i'll just have to drink while i strip my s13 no worries if i brake anything on that :)

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clean the block carefully with a gasket scraper, or failing that, a wood chisel, rasor blade, or something similar. clean it carefully and try not to gouge it or leave marks in it. very fine sandpaper and wd40 can also work, or a large flat grindstone with wd40 can also be helpful. Obviously if its a cast block you get away with a lot more, be VERY VERY careful on aluminium blocks and cylinder heads.

 

Check the head for straightness with a ruler or similar. A machine shop probably won't charge for a hardness test either (it takes about 5 seconds) which might be a good idea.

 

Robert.

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