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Settings Tappets... Rule Of 9


altezzaclub

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13, that sounds ominous.

 

i might get to it this weekend.

 

will be the 4th tappet adjustment in 10km on the 3t

 

love project cars and doing head gaskets etc :happy:

 

i actually drove it tonight :blinks:

 

rolla ken, atleast your honest about it, better than some blokes ive met, doin some seriously oddball things telling me they know what theyre doing...

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Well, if I never see another 4K tappet I'll be happy. I'd forgotten that motors are full of chopped up razorblades inside...

 

I went over then all carefully by the 1342 method, before I'd started the car today, so cold they were all 15thou.

 

Then I checked them by rule of nine, and numbers 2, 4 and 5 were wide. So I checked them again and again to make sure, and number 5 is 20thou under rule of 9, and 1,3 6,7 8 are all 15 or 16 thou. That leaves 2 and 4 which were 18. Using 1342 they are all nicely 15.

 

So using rule of nine I closed #5 from its 20thou to 16, which took it down to a tight 12 or a smooth 13 when I checked it with the 1342 method. The two rockers at 18thou I dropped back to 16 with the rule of 9 too, they ended up at 13-14thou by 1342.

 

So... looking up old figures in my shoebox, where I throw all the bits of paper I always make notes on.. :laff: I find it was the same rockers that lead me to this problem in the start.

 

Is this a cam grind problem?? I did see that even rule of 9 varies as you turn the crank bit by bit, so it is not although the nose of one lobe is a precise position, and neither is the heel at that point a wide flat area!

 

Anyway, I'll take it out this afternoon and see if the rattle has gone.

 

I did make life easier by putting the protractor on it, turning 180deg and marking the pulley at cyls 2&3 TDC with a bit of white ink. That's the magnet from my metal detector pick, so its easily strong enough to hold the protractor in place. Also made sure the cam timing was OK, and we have set tappets using cam timing before on the rally car, but OHC is much easier!

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I have always set 1 to rocking adjust 4, set 3 to rocking adjust 2, and so on.

Our old speedway motor had a crow cam, I used to set that to 12 cold and then readjust to 16 hot.

As a interesting activity set to 8 cold then check compression, then re adjust to 12 cold and recheck.

When I set them cold I've always noticed the rear ones seem to have less clearance when hot.

Remember the head will run hotter with less exhaust valve clearance.

Cheers

Andy

 

 

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  • 4 years later...

So, time for tappets again, and this time I tried the factory method! Very quick and simple, and they are quiet.

 

This time you get number 1 cyl on firing and set tappets 1 2 3 and 5.

 

Then turn the motor 360deg to get number 4 firing and set tappets 4 6 7 and 8.

 

So there's three different methods to try!

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this intrigues me.

 

is there a way to do this rule of 9 on a straight 6? 12 valve diseasal.

and a 24 valve 1g?

 

 

 

Any of the OHC engines should be easier... you just point the lobes away from the valves you are adjusting....

 

Here is a 4AGE (similar architecture to 1G). Note the cam lobes are pointing toward the camera, and are facing 180 degrees away from the bucket/shim. Here is where to measure. Here I'm measuring valve clearances to .0005"

 

0005inchaccuracy_zpsc70a004a.jpg

 

I measured to this extent when I'm swapping 1SZ buckets... @ $12 a bucket you need to be accurate!

 

 

 

PS - there is enough information in that photo for a smart, observant individual to tell me how much that particular bucket is out of spec.... anyone care to take a guess???

Edited by oldeskewltoy
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shitloads by the thickness of feeler gauge you have in there! lol

 

Just reminded me I am meant to do mine on the TD tomorrow :( don't think I will, too much else to do to the old bucket of bolts.

 

Altezza, did you do the factory method then compare to the other two methods?

 

Cheers :)

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shitloads by the thickness of feeler gauge you have in there! lol

 

Cheers :)

 

actually I was measuring for getting the client 1SZ buckets for his 4AGE... I have a set of the thinnest 1SZ buckets, I install them, make my measurements, rotate the cam 2 or 3 times, re-check all my measurements so I order only the appropriate buckets needed..... In the USA the 1SZ was not available, so screwing up a measurement means a 30 day wait for parts coming from Japan

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I've always done my 3k the way my Haynes manual showed, which sounds like the 9 thing. But it gives you the order in which they will open to make it easy. You just rotate the engine once, slowly, watching for the valves to open, adjusting as you go. Sorry...my book is 40 years old now and much used. It and this car were my introduction to mechanics.

I haven't tried the factory method but It just seems like you would only be near to right, adjusting 4 at a time like that. I would be curious to do it that way and then go back and check individually to see how close it is. I have a rebuild coming up soon, I'll try it then.

 

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(Hahahah I also have a body shop wanting to paint my car for free because the owner had a 69 KE10 for his first car. After he paints it he said he will probably try to buy it because he wants one again....These have never been very "collectible" around here but interest is picking up in the last year or so....this should be an interesting spring

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