philbey Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Now that I think of it, BR wont help starting over a non BR setup LOL, like you said it must be for point preservation. I suspected the same, people putting the wrong type of coil in and blowing them. I'll probably swap it to the Can type as well, they look cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Why don't you run one of those black transistor coils for higher voltage? That is what I had before I sold off my 5k electronic dizzy and coil that was on the ke16. The 5k leccy dizzys advance curve isn't the best, unless you get it recurved. Car went much better afterwards with a points dizzy. I've had one of those GT40 can style coils burn out before after a couple of years. It was a resistor type, running a resistor... not a fan. The Echlin GX80's are better in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 I went looking for one of the black transistor coils from Sprints but the dude was.... slightly difficult (mick I know but I'm nowhere near norwood!!) and wouldn't sell me one of the black ones for an elec dizzy too hard, car specific etc etc.... I just got what the Bosch book said to get. As for the curve, I do want to get an MSD programmable anyway, so it'll be lock time anyway. I might just get one of these GX80's and throw it on there. Mick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) As for the curve, I do want to get an MSD programmable anyway, so it'll be lock time anyway. No worries. Sounds like a good plan. Something you may find of interest from a bit of a quick test with one of those spark tester tools at idle: 5k electronic dizzy with Bosch black transistor coil. 30,000 volts. 4k Scorcher Bosch recurved dizzy with Jaycar HEI kit and Echlin GX80 coil. 25,000 volts. Edited October 14, 2010 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 While we're talking about them Doug, do you have any more info on these transistor coils? I did find some info but there's a few different ones, perhaps you have a part number on yours, I'll just order that particular one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 No sorry the setup I had was sold a few years ago. Think ScottKE1x bought it. Maybe drop him a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) just texted him, his stash of goodies is only over the hill from my place! Incidentally I read up this on a toymods thread about the GT40's http://apps.bosch.com.au/motorsport/downloads/ignitioncoils.pdf Seems all I need to know is what resistances I need, and that way I can choose one of these coils. Anyone shed some light on Resistance? Edited October 14, 2010 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Good, hopefully he can help you out. I fixed the voltage figures in my previous post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Hi, Ok I had a few electronic dizzys and Felix is correct advance curve is crap made for van torque so get them graphed. As for power the Resistor in the points ignition limits the amount of current the points can draw. By varying the resistance you can also tune the coil for best spark at set RPM. I was running a BIG accel coil a while back now with out a resistor wouldn't fire slowly increased value of resistor got to a point where coil did work and then adding more resistance changed when the coil was working "best". So now for your electronic dizzy. There are 2 wires on the internal igniter ones. First time I used one I had GT40R coil for points I wired it straight in the 2 wires from dizzy to back of the coil. Worked......not for long. The resistor dropped voltage to 8 volts. Dizzy still worked as they will work with lower voltage for cranking but they don't do it 100% of the running time. So I got new internals and kept the same coil and moved the dizzy positive wire to before the resistor. Problem fixed. Dizzy now got 12 volts and worked a treat. Still going 3rd year in-car now like this. As for coils. These performance coils have less internal resistance so the "charge" faster. There ok. But I have seen MANY stock coils put out MUCH MUCH more power. My auto electrician mate told me to go searching wreckers for Mitsubishi IMPORT ignition coils. Normal Aussie coils are like say 46mm diameter. Import coils are 49mm diameter. Not much bigger but have a LOT more windings in them and a WAY bigger spark stock. My wrecker doesnt know this and I cleaned him out of import coils at $5 a piece and WAY hotter spark than a GT40 and I use that in the KE15. Brand of coil is Diamond. So if you want a good coil look for them. But a good old ND coil is also good seen them melt them self. But personally I am sold on CDI systems now. My stock KE15 coil 10,000V at idle when tested. With CDI I could max out spark tool with same coil and at times I would see 4 sparks crossing the gap on the tool. So even look at getting a CDI kit or unit worth their money. Only thing to remember CDI sparks and shorter but more power . Non-CDI coil sparks longer duration less power I found with CDI I had to advance dizzy a little but I did get lot better fuel burn I even wound mixture screw in on dizzy a bit so worth it. Cameron Oh BTW. a KE1X has no resistor factory. So id go GT40 wiht no need for resistor and whack on electronic dizzy if this is you easiest option Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 just had a quick read through all this, with a electronic dissy running the std coil, is the ballast required? ballast resistor drops the voltage at cranking (something like that) to 8v for better starting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 just had a quick read through all this, with a electronic dissy running the std coil, is the ballast required? ballast resistor drops the voltage at cranking (something like that) to 8v for better starting? Ballast resistor drops voltage to coil when running to preserve points. At startup the resistor is bypassed so coil receives full battery voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 so since I'm not using points, theres no reason to run it correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Yep, but you should run a non-resistor coil (if you haven't already). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Yep, but you should run a non-resistor coil (if you haven't already). ahk, so any coil out of a late model car? like a cressida or crown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 I wouldn't bank on that Evan, the early corollas ran no resistor, later ones did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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