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Posted

Hey Hey,

 

I sent my radiator to a shop for a re-core. Both top and bottom tanks are corroded and have pin holes all through them. No one makes tanks anymore so they were going make me some and re-core for it for a sum of $800, Bit rich for me.

 

Another place is getting tanks in and cutting them up and welding back together to fit the frame with a new 3 row core and charging me $385.

 

Has any one else had their Ke1X or Ke2X radiator re-cored ? if so did you run into problems ?

 

Des ;)

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Posted

I just had a KE2X one recored at one of those Natrad places for $225. 2 year warranty on the new core.

 

They re-used the top and bottom tanks, welded in the new core and gave it a flash black paint job. I wouldn't have paid anymore since there are re-production brand new ones listed for about the same money.

 

$800 is a load of shit - glad you walked from there.

 

KE1X and 2X would have to be roughly the same dimensions wise :wink:

Posted

i had my original ke11 radiator fully recored. I did it as soon as i bought the car.

 

had to take off the stock metal 2 blade fan as well.. as a blade fell off while driving :hmm:

 

i just mounted a 10 inch (i think) thermo on the front.

 

the radiator cost me $240

 

luke is right the repo ones do pop up on ebay and the like from time to time for about that price..

 

you could go custom alloy for the 800 mark...

 

cheers

 

henry

Posted

I just bought a decent KE20 one off ebay for 30 bucks and had it cleaned and flushed for about 70 bucks.

 

Although there's a bit of fiddling to fit a KE20 one, file out some holes and make some spacers, that sort of gaff.

Posted

Hi,

My clean and flush was also $70 from local company did a crap job..LOL Wont use them again

 

As for radator I use a KE25 one bolts straight in. So KE2X might of differed a bit. But it is thicker. So now I have about 10mm between engine and radator so have to run a pusher fan.

 

My KE15 worked 5K sits on lower line of gauge think that mark is 74 degrees in my hand book if it is accurate.

 

I found but slightest blockage and car gets hot fast especally in traffic. I have had a lot of cooling issues with 5K and KE15 but slowly sorting it now.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Posted

Hi,

My clean and flush was also $70 from local company did a crap job..LOL Wont use them again

 

As for radator I use a KE25 one bolts straight in. So KE2X might of differed a bit. But it is thicker. So now I have about 10mm between engine and radator so have to run a pusher fan.

 

My KE15 worked 5K sits on lower line of gauge think that mark is 74 degrees in my hand book if it is accurate.

 

I found but slightest blockage and car gets hot fast especally in traffic. I have had a lot of cooling issues with 5K and KE15 but slowly sorting it now.

 

Cheers

Cameron

 

A radiator flush does not guarantee a 100% working radiator, they actually flush them by poking metal rods through the galleries in the radiator, if they can't get the large one through then they will work their way down in size until they can.

 

I had a radiator re-cored for my KE10 just a few years ago for around $180.

 

Full ally custom job wouldn't cost you $800, someone is smoking crack there!

 

He can't just get a recore, the tanks are stuffed.

 

He was stating that for $800 you could get an alloy rad.

 

Des I just rang JAR for you to find out if they do a KE1* rad and they said the one for the TA22 they make is the same, it is priced at $499.

 

http://www.alloyradiators.com.au/

Posted

...As for radator I use a KE25 one bolts straight in. So KE2X might of differed a bit. But it is thicker. So now I have about 10mm between engine and radator so have to run a pusher fan....

....I found but slightest blockage and car gets hot fast especally in traffic. I have had a lot of cooling issues with 5K and KE15 but slowly sorting it now.

 

I am running a KE20 Automatic radiator, and I think it's the trans cooler in the bottom tank that make it a tad taller, causing it to clash with the lower rad panel brace. Had to run a pusher fan also, but if I cut that lower brace I might just get the fan behind the radiator. Thickness was the same as the KE1x item.

 

I find the biggest issue with Ke10 cooling is the lack of overflow bottle, a couple of drives and you lose half a litre, in summer you need to top up almost daily.

 

Des I just rang JAR for you to find out if they do a KE1* rad and they said the one for the TA22 they make is the same, it is priced at $499.

 

When mine got cleaned, I asked him about the cooling capacity for the upsized 5K and he actually mentioned that the same core is used on a TA22 1600 so it should be fine.

Posted

Hi,

Trev mine was what you said. Top and bottom tank off and poke and solder back up..LOL If I had the level of energy required Id do it my self but...CBF at the time.

 

As for lack of over flow bottle this helped my car HEAPS. After one run when water expanded and pushed some out when cooled created the air gap. Now my 5K is 10mm taller than stock motor and slightly upright more. So the air gap if I got it hot put air into the head. On next drive would heat up hotter than normal air would be pushed out then hey temp drop all of a sudden wasnt good. Over flow tank stopped this and keeps things cooler. A must have. Also change your radiator cap when you do this to a return type.

 

Also mine is a KE25 manual rad so no lower cooler. BUT mine is re-cored and was off Redwarfs old KE25 rally car so has a thicker core by a lot so I lost all my spare room.

 

Interesting to know that to about the TA22 radiator. Gives me options for down the track.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Posted

Don't really want to go alloy in this case. Not the look I'm after. Thanks anyway Trev.

 

Dropped the rad off today so ill let ya know how i go.

Posted

 

I find the biggest issue with Ke10 cooling is the lack of overflow bottle, a couple of drives and you lose half a litre, in summer you need to top up almost daily.

 

 

i just grabbed a ke55 or 30 overflow bottle with backing mount for mine... best move ever! hardest part is trying to squeeze it in the engine bay somewhere :hmm:

Posted

Hide it under the battery tray. That is where mine is plastic hose goes in right direction and down so looks like I dump still but hid a small bottle under battery tray I can still easily get at. Helps I have a larger battery tray also I use a battery that could start a V* over kill but hey..LOL

 

Let us know how your radator comes up.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Posted

i just grabbed a ke55 or 30 overflow bottle with backing mount for mine... best move ever! hardest part is trying to squeeze it in the engine bay somewhere :hmm:

 

yeh tell me about it with this stupid remote brake booster and the carbies, I've got bugger all real estate for a bottle

 

You can get a 75mm dia aftermarket one for not too much though, I think I'll grab one. Stainless. Jam it between the rad and the battery.

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