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Posted

Wire wheel will go through most/all the rust. You will probably be left behind with a bit of a cheese grate. If you want to cut it to a nice square shape so you can neatly make a patch to weld in, then use a cutting disc.

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Posted

oh k, i will go buy a wire wheel then from mitre 10. anyone know what these cost?

i have some more fotos, that i took of when the whole front was off (like the bumper and stone guard thingy) ill try and post them up tonight.

 

have planned to do this on monday so ill take pics of it and stuff.

 

how shuld i finish it? after welding. i have some galvanise paint, shuld i paint that on and then just spray matt black back over it? or use nikki/bog? etc.

 

i used a bit of cutting compound on the bonnet and it shinned up really wel. might give her a wash and wax, make her look more respectable. i took off all the gay mud guards and silver strips that were on the wheel arches. anyone know the best way to get rid of 20yr old sticky cheese glue?

 

thanks fellas

Posted (edited)

Prepsol usually takes the yucky black goo stuff off. If you can wax the paint again after you prepsol it, as prepsol also takes wax off, which protects the paint.

 

As for finish, you can bog if you want, or you can just primer (and or cold gal) and paint it, up to you.

 

Wire wheel depends what type and quality. You can also try flapper wheel, personally I prefer these but they're more expensive.

Edited by demuire
Posted (edited)

You call that rust :) lol. But seriously, I'd advise against the wire wheel, I've found them pointless so far. Only way to go is angle grinder :pirate: But seriously, Demuire did you find wire wheels effective?

Thanks

Troy

edit:said hahaha one too many times.

Edited by boofis
Posted

Use a wire wheel. A grinder will end up cuting the wrong places

and give you more work. MIG is definatly easier but if you

use te ARC get the thinnest satincrft rods you can get.

Do a practice weld out of the car on a scrap of the material

you are welding. start with the amps low and adjust

accordingly.

 

Like everything practice makes perfect.

I'm a welder by trade and thats how i learnt

Posted

Oooh fun. Still fixable, I recon. Get the wire wheel in there and see how much of that is actually metal worth saving, and then take more photos and show us. Half the stuff under the paint is probably gone too, I wouldn't be surprised.

 

With wire wheels, don't bother with the wheels on the drill thing. Get a twisted core cup one for an angle grinder or similar, run on LOW speed, make sure you wear gloves and eye protection, pulling bits of wire out of your eyes and hands is no fun. The twisted core wire wheels are more effective than the standard wire wheels.

 

Use the cutting/grinding disc ONLY to shape the hole for your patch, don't use it to cut the rust out or you'll end up cutting out too much, probably.

Posted

yeh, well i hope that i can do this in one day so it wil be a big rush. but i think i can do it.

 

yeh i was going for the grinder wire attachment, and of course-safety first, i don't like things that spin fast besides fully sik burnouts!

 

anyone else have their opinion?

 

cheers

Posted

eeehhuuugghh... structual rust.. eehh....

 

either do a dodgie and cutt that part out of another ke70 @ wreckers and weld in...

 

i hate rust.

Posted

i was thinking of doin that teddy... but at the wreckers where i go (picknplayless) ur not allowed cutting tools, this includes hacksaws, i stil carry them tho

plus there wont be anywhere for a power source..

 

 

what dus everyone think?

i was thinking of semi maurfacturing that section my self from strips of metal like 3mm thick

cheers

Posted (edited)

Use the fine cutting wheels on the grinder (about 2mm thick), they are very precise if your handy with your grinder. Also wire wheels have a tendency to shoot there bristles off into flesh.

Edited by Jason

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