NIXON Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Hey guys picked myself up a ke55 sedan today for cheap, only problem is the fuel gauge is not working but the temp is. Did a search and found that the resistors can be faulty on the back of the speedo. Is that what this could be, or somethng else? Also the speedo doesnt sit on 0 when stopped, sits on about 30km/h, could this have something to do with it, or a separate problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 common problem is the fuel level sender gets old and doesnt really work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIXON Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 common problem is the fuel level sender gets old and doesnt really work Ah crap lol, easy fix?, where is it located..(sorry, new to old school rollas) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
towe001 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Hey guys picked myself up a ke55 sedan today for cheap, only problem is the fuel gauge is not working but the temp is. Did a search and found that the resistors can be faulty on the back of the speedo. Is that what this could be, or somethng else? Also the speedo doesnt sit on 0 when stopped, sits on about 30km/h, could this have something to do with it, or a separate problem? The speedo problem is a separate problem. The old owner could have pulled the speedo out and fiddled with it, is one reason. Does the needle move when the car starts moving (faster then walking pace) ? Cause if its like that you might be able to move the needle back to its correct spot. But i do say might cause you might not be able to do it. The resistors, if you want to call them that (more diodes really), drop the voltage to about 5v for both the temp gauge and fuel gauge. My guess would be the same as Evan's. The sender is in the fuel tank. But you'll have to pull the tank out to be able to get to it without damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 could anyone provide me with the pics of a diode/resistor on the back of the cluster? both of my gauges drop out when my lights are on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIXON Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 The speedo problem is a separate problem. The old owner could have pulled the speedo out and fiddled with it, is one reason. Does the needle move when the car starts moving (faster then walking pace) ? Cause if its like that you might be able to move the needle back to its correct spot. But i do say might cause you might not be able to do it. The resistors, if you want to call them that (more diodes really), drop the voltage to about 5v for both the temp gauge and fuel gauge. My guess would be the same as Evan's. The sender is in the fuel tank. But you'll have to pull the tank out to be able to get to it without damage. Cheers for the reply, I wil have to check when it starts to move tomorrow and maybehave a play around with it to see if i can get it back in the right spot. As for the fuel gauge, ill take it to my auto elec tomorrow and see what he says. Hopefully the wiring has fallen out along the way and i wont have to pull the ank out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
towe001 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 From the back side From the inside after the board was taken off the cluster The diode is what regulates the voltage to 7v (i was wrong with the 5v) And the capacitor is there to smooth out any voltage spikes as such (like turning the lights on/off) Sorry Evan but i really don't think this would be causing your problem. I'd say the problem is elsewhere between the light switch and gauge cluster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
towe001 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Just realized the pictures are from a ke30. The ke55 uses a plastic film type of circuit board. The chunk of metal between the oil light and LH light is the regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I came across this old post when I was looking for a solution to my fuel and temp gauges working/not working at the same time. The problem was the voltage regulator . I couldn't find an off the shelf replacement so I had one made by a guy who specializes in fixing speedos. http://www.appliedinstruments.com.au/ It now looks like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) That very neat ! Looks like it has a little trim pot on the PCB, so you can adjust the voltage exactly. The original voltage regulator was 7 or 8 volts off memory, which isn't commonly available commercially. A standard 7806 +ve regulator in a TO220 format, can be used in lieu, with a diode in the ground connection to lift the o/p volts to 6.7 volts, which is pretty close. Just checked Jaycar site. They do a 6V +ve regulator inTO220 case @ $ 1.50, Cat# ZV1506. They also have an 8 V +ve regulator in TO220 case @ $ 1.50, Cat# ZV1508. Cheers Banjo. Edited September 1, 2014 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.