greatskinz Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 i purchased a set of trd double valve springs to go in my 5k engine problem that came up was, i could not insert the inner springs coz they hit the valve seals on the way in, and if this was in fact a trd part intended for a k engine why would this problem with fitting arise? questions is there an option for perhaps thinner valve seals on a k engine? or are they on a standard 15.5 diameter? or given the pictures, think i got the wrong item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Are you using the steel seals or the rubber seals. The steel ones tend to be smaller in diameter. 4 Steel one and one rubber one below- Edited February 9, 2011 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Probably for the older O ring style valve stem seals which will be much narrower. I have the numbers at home somewhere but 15.5 ID sounds much too small for the Steel ones even. I'll check tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimi91 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) :o can u give me a link for where u got them plz ??? see ya jimi Edited February 9, 2011 by jimi91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 O ring style valve stem seals Ah, now THEY were basic! The oil ran down the valve stem, onto the o-ring and was meant to flow off onto the outside of the valve guide in the milliseconds that the valve was at full open & the o-ring touched the top of the guide. Any oil-proof (Viton/nitrile) o-ring will do I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Hi Ralph, I just finished getting together a WHOLE TRD K motor head. You might have more issues with these valves springs then first through. I will look up my part numbers but there is a chance these springs wont work unless you have a TRD valve set also. TRD valves have a thinner diameter (8mm off top of head) They also have seat in head made bigger and further in head for longer springs to allow larger amounts of cam lift. Following this the spring retainers are a different shape and titanium and the little tabs that go in there to lock the valve in are different and the TRD valves had a different locking grove on them. Also the valve guides are different on TRD valves. So to run these springs with inner might be harder than it looks. What you can do is run the outer spring only. Inner is to stop valve bounce and hings happening at high sustained RPM. If this is going in a road/ weekend racer could look at dropping the inner. My TRD springs I got the Blue ones (colour on spring indicates how hard they are). Blues are a good street to mild race one and can very well be run with out the inner spring over 8000RPM no worries. So look into their seat pressure more and that research them and test them and hey might just be easier to put onto your K head with out the inner spring. Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trd Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Hope this helps, but probally won't The reason they hit the valve stem seals is that when you buy TRD valve springs for a K engine you also need to buy the TRD valve guides, which are smaller and only take 6.6mm valves, so then you need the TRD valves and the TRD retainers and collars. TRD valve springs where only made to be used as a whole kit and not to be used for a standard 8mm valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 ^^^ Top stuff helps me as my valves are in the head not handy to meassure..LOL So edit old post 6.6mm valves :) And yeah pretty much states what I said TRD re-engineered the K motor so much that to use a bulk of their parts you NEED all of them on it will be a no go. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimi91 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 hey cam how much did it cost roughly to do ur trd head and are the bits easy to get ??? see ya jimi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greatskinz Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 thanks for the very useful advice fellas, i havent looked into the project for quite a while and thought i had purchased all the parts needed to have this k engine project going, and this was supposed to be the last step, thought id get it up and running by this week, but the trd springs posses another problem, currently i got the standard valve seals on em, and am quite relieved to hear from you guys, that though costly, these are the right springs for my project, its just a matter of stretching my patience and budget (sadly) to have them in there and working @altezzaclub - I'm using the rubber ones, measured 15.5 in the caliper, i had a new set of narrower ones delivered, hopefully it gets here tomorow and i can post more pics of them and the current status of the engine (the more advices the better) @jimi91 - bought them from a good friend here, he has an extra set of these springs. il ask him if he's selling @Cameron - thanks. i printed what you just typed, so the springs themselves arent even half the story? aside from designing these to perform very well. trd also designed for them to be sold as a whole? LOL its good to know that i got an option not to use the inner ones though. just in case this whole thing proves to be very costly, out of curiosity. how much did you pay for your blue ones, and is can we still order a set? @trd- that again posses the same dilemma, turns out i might be leaning to purchase the rest of the parts to fit hey cam say question as jimi, and if so a little help sourcing out these trd parts? =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Mate if you're getting stuck, I ran Crow 4220's in my large cammed 5K. Went straight into the 5K no problems (after I broke a valve spring) have a read of this thread. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/38950-valve-spring-discussion-whos-used-what/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimi91 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 thanks for the very useful advice fellas, i havent looked into the project for quite a while and thought i had purchased all the parts needed to have this k engine project going, and this was supposed to be the last step, thought id get it up and running by this week, but the trd springs posses another problem, currently i got the standard valve seals on em, and am quite relieved to hear from you guys, that though costly, these are the right springs for my project, its just a matter of stretching my patience and budget (sadly) to have them in there and working @altezzaclub - I'm using the rubber ones, measured 15.5 in the caliper, i had a new set of narrower ones delivered, hopefully it gets here tomorow and i can post more pics of them and the current status of the engine (the more advices the better) @jimi91 - bought them from a good friend here, he has an extra set of these springs. il ask him if he's selling @Cameron - thanks. i printed what you just typed, so the springs themselves arent even half the story? aside from designing these to perform very well. trd also designed for them to be sold as a whole? LOL its good to know that i got an option not to use the inner ones though. just in case this whole thing proves to be very costly, out of curiosity. how much did you pay for your blue ones, and is can we still order a set? @trd- that again posses the same dilemma, turns out i might be leaning to purchase the rest of the parts to fit hey cam say question as jimi, and if so a little help sourcing out these trd parts? =) Thanks mate that would be nice :happy: see ya jimi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 The inners are there to upset the natural harmonics inherent in the outers and so move the valve bounce rpm area to somewhere it doesn't matter. So if you just run outers it should be fine until you hit valve bounce, which with TRD is probably up around 8000rpm anyway!! TRD did the whole package very carefully- I don't know how long they intended it to go for as a road machine, but it all works nicely as a racing setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hi, stage 1,2 TRD engine road useable stage 3 but pure race were talking one ring on the piston and HUGE lift on cam set of springs would only last a few weeks on the road..LOL But as for this set of twins just use the outer a road car wont see 8000RPM to often (maybe in the philippines it will but with no real road rules...LOL) as the TRD springs will still not be bouncaround 8 but id be more worried about other parts breaking at that RPM..LOL Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 The second valve spring isn't for dampening a the harmonics; dual springs allow much higher valve lift than a single because they have much shorter solid height than a single. You may likely see a decrease in nose pressures with a double spring vs a single. The dampening of harmonics can be achevied in two ways: spring dampener which is a ribbon spring that rubs on the outer spring to dissipate energy (friction) or an interference fit on double springs where the inner and outer rub on one another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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