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This may help: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/6355-Tacho-tech

That appears to be a AE82 4age corolla dash, tach will only work if you use a 4age ignitor. bad luck.

Good. i need parts. see ya saturday :kiwi:

yeah we're both ok. Chassis is twisted and with 4 big hits, one in l/r, two in the front and one in the side, she's pretty screwed. Mechanicals seem ok but I have a feeling the diff maybe screwed also. Have been offered 3 cars so far but still haven't decided weather to build a new one yet. Shame it was going pretty good with the new 6 speed, not 100% sure what happened but I think I was about 1 mtr off line (not that you could tell as we were car two on the road) also having tyres 2 sizes down from what i usually use and a slipping clutch, the rest is history.

Well I'm sad to say we can bring this thread to a end as I wrote off the rally car last weekend at Batemans bay. It requires a complete re shell.

Its out of a 3sge IS200, http://www.ebay.com....=item27cd2bf096 Its what iam putting in the rolla, just need to change the first two gear ratio's. 1.1 - 5th

Thought you would put a AZ6 behind this one. Straight bolt in

You have far too much time on your hands Craig :ban:

Well done mate. Looks awesome. For no38 HID's

Here's another video from last weekend :

Our loom is connected with a trailer plug (have a look under the bumper on the LH side) I don't see any overheating with the lights on, i think mainly cause you fit them for night and its usually quite cool.

This was Stage 7

you've got a "T" bellhousing when you want "A" bellhousing. Between the two top mounting bolts it has it stamped what motor it fits (5k's don't have anything)

4K's can have both types of combustion chambers. And your got the wrong crank pully for your timing cover. Late model 4k's and 5k's have the timing mark in a different place.

Not that hard to do, but if your a first timer at it start with something small. Youtube has some good video's on how its done. The frame is only 1 layer and no gelcoat, the bonnet skin is going to be 2 layers with the frame put on last or between the 2. Not sure yet. Should be very light

Just a update. Been working on getting some more weight out of the car. Mainly the bonnet. Heres the new frame i just pulled out of the mould tonight. Also had the bearings turn up and the new Toyota crank.

it was probaly more the entry to it, there was a big rut across the road and i hadn't slowed the car down enough, she bonuced and landed in the water. If it didnt go bang there i still don't think we would have made the end of the stage as the oil catch can was full, seems to be pumping oil alot out of the breather. Went good on the sss until i spun it. Had alot of poeple coming up and asking about it. Also think its got bent valves and the block is f@$ked, cranks probally bent as well

The car goes on the trailer saturday and we're off to the WRC sunday.

the oil feed out of the block feeds the oil up one of the front bolt holes. About 20mm down inside that bolt hole is the oil gallery to the cams. Toyota head bolts are 8.29 thick and the hole is 10.80 (on ours away) with leaves a 2.51mm gap for the oil to flow up beside that bolt and into the oil gallery for the cams (gallery is 1.8mm). stick a 10.mm ARP head stud down there and that leaves a .4mm gap each side of the bolt for the oil to flow pass. At road speeds it was ok and allowed us to run the motor in, but when we went testing the rpm was much higher and it jumped 3 teeth on the cam belt cause the cam was starting to seize to the head. the fix is really easy. ran a rotary burr up the bolt hole to the oil gallery, taking out about 2mm. Not gonna have that problem again. Gave me a chance to upgrade a few parts as well. we've gone to a set of Kelford cams with alot more lift and better duration.better valve springs, upgraded the conrods and HPC coated the pistons. Should have it up and running by the weekend. First event for the car, which we have be accepted for, is the round of the WRC in coffs and we'll be in the allcomers section of that rally. Fingers crossed. was going to do a carbon fiber dash but iam running out of time, so it will be done later

the 4ge main studs do fit, but you have to cut the stud beside the oil pump from memory. the ARP small block chev bolts will fit the3/4/5k con rods only if you ream the hole out to 3/8th hope this helps

mine was the same. i brought it in when i moved to aus. mines a yellow metal plate that has "personal import" on it. you can't get a car in the country unless it has main roads apporval, personal import or other wise. If was regoed in darwin i see no reason why it can't be regoed in NSW. I use to do alot of imports. check with her to see what approval she has for the car.

i have a private import. It should have a Yellow Plate on it saying its a personal import and a mod plate. The car shouldn't have to be re-enginered. The only thing she should have to rego it is the Import Approval papers from main roads. (which is federal) If she doesn't have that they will not rego in any state.

all done with a 1KZ hi-lux engine

"L" Diesel's were shit, your better off with 1KZ turbo engine. they were in the 92-> surf's. havent see one break yet and i think they bolt up to ya g/box