trd

you heat the underside of the floor & the shit should just peel off.

i sold my TRD "U" diff centre about 18mouths ago it was a 5.1 with a 2way trd lsd & he brought the trd close ratio "K" gearbox aswell :abuse:

all the info ive got for the "k" engine parts from TRD don't say anything about dry sump set ups, i think that sump is off the 3k-r engine. my trd k engine manual only shows a engine oil cooler.

hi matty. i got 4 different parts. 17172-24010, 17172-24011,17172-24020, 17172-13020 i think its the last one. some off the big port ones had a extra water hole in the gasket, but ithink it still fits tony

5k has timing marks in a different place to 4k - 3k 5k crank pully + 4k timing cover = f@$ked up timing :y:

the reason you don't need a blue plate is ke70's came out with 5k's in japan - so you can fit them without having to blue plate them (sorry this is only for ke70's)

hahaha super cheap jumper leads?????????????? ;)

only a thought. but if your using a ke15 flywheel, are using a ke15 starter. if the number of teeth on the starter are different from ke15 to ke20-30-70 that can cause the starter to bind up. i haven't seen it before in corolla starters but i have seen it in other cars. worth a try.

you need to know your installed height. measure the height of the spring installed, then you need measure lbs - to do this use a drill press & some bathroom scales. sit the spring on top of the scales & compress the spring to the height it was installed at. take the reading. from there you sould be able to work out what you've got. i think 85 - 100 lbs is about right. as for crane cams saying no power loss, bullshit. there test engine is probly a 454 big block not a 1300cc corolla engine.

if it had a oil problem it would have run a bearing not snaped the crank. the oil level was full, pressure was oil & it had not long ago had a oil change. i think the crank had fault in it. all the other bearings look overrated except for the middle main which supplys that big end bearing, it looked like it had run low on oil, but still wasn't bad.

ive got a copy

will be a AE86 diff if its a "s"

both are k50's. the bottom one is the first of the k50's, had smaller front bearings & hard to find parts for, the top is the updated version, larger front bearings & different lay shaft for the bearings, as for ratio's there all the same - use the top one

if you want the engine to burn oil after you've fixed it, then by all means clean the pistons. :D its a well know fact that if you do a head gasket, do what ever you like to the head but unless your going to put rings in it, DON'T touch the pistons!! :(

depends on how wide your power band is. the old girls got the T50 behind it as i broke the k50. the t50 has pretty good ratio's except for 1st gear is a little to low (2500 power band)

sorry don't have any of the sump. the head on my car ATM is a 3k small port, & no - ive never had a problem with it choking up at high rpm as the limiting fact in the engine is the port size. just remember when building a high reving engine, its not how high you can rev it - its what happens after you change gears.

what you don't know you don't have to fix

yeh i didn't think you could take them out that far but he did & its in a rally car. as for the head bolts iam still using the standard ones at 10.5 & no problems, haven't tried the 4age ones yet to see if they fit. modifing the sump is a bitch of a job for the upright engine, had to cut off the bottom half, make a new one, then fit all the baffling to it. i remember someone telling me once they used mk1 cortina inlet manifolds to upright a k engine. don't know if it was true but worth a look. as for valves i just use the standard jap toyota ones 36mm i think. never had a problem with them same with the toyota pushrods. what are you planning to do with this engine?

if you use the 4age rods & pistons you can buy cheap forged pistons, arp rod bolts etc, also the 4age arp flywheel bolts go straight onto the k crankshaft & you can use the arp main stud kit if you grind about 3mm off the bottom of the stud, the one beside the oil pump you have to cut off flush. you can bore the 5k out quite large aswell, i know of one which is out to 83mm without any problems. my own one is out to 82mm & has been to 9500rpm before.

hi cam. i think your right about them hitting the bonnet. sounds like you've still got the van sump. your right about the angle of the ports & the shape of the manifolds - gives you a better attack angle on the valve. ive seen the 7k efi setup, not to bad at all. i did have the 5k upright efi when i built it, but just couldn't get the perforance out of it, so we bolted on a set of dellortos & all the power came back. its got alot to do with how the fuel is delivered - a droplet of fuel carrys alot cooler charge than the spray from the injector. they both have there +s & -s. i take it you got the epc? isn't it a great thing. no more toyota screwing up your parts order, you can do it all yourself. lol

you would be better off buying the 20mm pin pistons as they can handle about 10000rpm standard & there cheaper than the 18mm ones, by about $150. you do have to shave the block when fitting 4age pistons & rods, CC your head & block to find the right amount to shave of it. as for a up right engine - you need the manifolds & base plate, engine mounts, u have to get extractors make, modify the sump, modify the g/box x member & bend the gear stick. is a great conversion to do but finding the parts (mainly manifolds )is bloody hard, does make alot more power though. Cam - the 5k sumps where mainly for vans & they don't fit the cars that well, most 4k ones are the same but i do know that some early 4k sumps were different. anything ke70 & upwards should bolt onto the 5k - thats what iam using on mine

fitting a "s" diff to my ke70 & i want to use the ke70 rear brakes. has anyone done this before? :)

Hi Cameron the 4agze or 100kw 4age takes the 20mm pin. the piston is about 5mm down the bore with the 4age rod. the bottoms of my 4age rods havn't been touched. been in there for about a year & no problems. theres a guy in finland who ran them in a rally car for over 2 years without any problems aswell.

:bash: congrats Teddy.. just need to weld that diff & it will be a First. bloody good effect

5K TRD uprite