trd

whats wrong with the retainer? and that shaft is only about $40 new from toyota, is the needle roller bearing that cost $$$$ what type of transmission casing is it, smooth or ribbed (thats the outside of the casing) theys 2 types & those shafts are different ive done 100's of these boxes & this is the most common problem (except for the retainer) cheap to fix

as for the grille- 2 models in ae82. long parklight (86-88) & short parklight (84-86) & yes the grilles are different

yeh cam timings out, who put it in? & did they dial it in? when ya put a reground "bigger"cam in a engine you must dial it in. this means setting it up using a dial gauge, degree wheel & you need the cam specs. easyest way to find out if it is. set the no 1 piston to top dead centre (0 on the timing mark) pull the rocker cover off and have a look at no 7 & no 8 valve, they should be at the same height if you cam specs are the same from exhaust to inlet eg: intake opens at 15 & close at 45 exhaust opens at 45 & close at 15. hope this helps :)

aaaahhh its only a ae106 corolla wagon.

first find whch one is causing he problem: get a can of engine start & spray it down the intake, if it starts its the fuel giving you problems, if it doesn't start its the spark. try that to start off with

this could be anything cam belt timing t.p.s idle not set correctly eg: locking out the ecu before setting idle cold start control leaking idle screw out to far (see idle not set correctly) have you done anything to it or did it just start happening?

check the rear brake shoes are adjusted correctly

interchangeable: yes But the fan stud pattern is different & the pulley size

have you tried the fuel shut off valve, make sure you have 12V to it & when you disconnect it the engine will run really bad or not at all (under 2000rpm)

ok: try this one. ke70-9024551 (08-79)

the way you bleed the brakes is one of the ways, but the master cyl, iam guessing is where the problem is. i found that gravity bleeding after getting the fliud to the wheels is the best way to make should you have all the air out. pumping the pedal on a new cyl is ok but not a old one as the seals run onto a area they don't usually go & that ends up stuffing them. be thankful you havn't got ABS. hope all this helps keep us up to date all to happy to help

ok first thing, pull the master cyl off, put it in the vice. put a bit of a angle on it so the air will coming out of the pipe holes. next fill the master cyl then get a screw driver put it up the end of the cyl, put your fingers over the pipe holes & push on the screw driver (like your pumping the brake pedal) fliud should squit out past your fingers. do this about 5 times. make sure than you don't lift your fingers off when letting the pressure off the screw driver (if your fingers come off this will suck air back into the master cyl). you should have the same amount of fliud squiting out of both holes, if not keeping going untill you do. keep topping it up as well. when your happy with it, top it up & bolt back on the car. then go though & gravity bleed the brakes. now i don't a hose as they can give you a wrong idea. leave the hose off. crack the nipple off & look at the fliud coming out. when theres air in it, these usually a bubble (like blowing bubbles) don't know how to say it any other way. when its right it should have a stream of fliud or a constant drip from the nipple. what i would do is try the master cyl thing first. then try the pedal & see if its better, then bleed the brakes. bloodly hard to describ see how you go tony

gravity bleed it one at a time untill theres no air coming out & it doesn't matter where you start from unless you own a jf holden (dual braking sysems eg: fronts aren't connected to the backs.) there should be NO AIR coming out!! when you change the master cyl do you bleed it up on the bench first or just stick it in the car? you should bleed the master cyl on the bench first before putting in, other wise you could have air trapped in the cyl. put the master cyl off, put it in a vice with a slight angle on it. where the pipes go in should be facing up slightly so the air goes to the top & then bleed it. also how are you bleeding it. sounds stupid but theres different ways to do it. best way ive found is to start from a wheel. bleed it until you have some fliud coming out of each wheel then go back & do it again.but this time do each untill there is no sign of air & don't pump the pedal just let gravity do its job & don't use the hose into the bottle tricck just crack the nipple off & let it come out. hope this shit makes sense. hope its a help. keep us up to date

hot wire the coil. wire from the battery + to the coil +, then start it, this will tell ya if the ign switch is f**ked the spark should be blue not orange, so change the coil to

how fast would it accerate if it was 4.W.D? :y: heres a stat for ya: its not the speed that kills ya its, the sudden stop :P

well ive come up with 2 part numbers 13781-13081 & 13781-13091 both are for the one with hyl lifters. i know theres 2 for the one with solid lifters what lifters have you got? do you know if the pistons are flat tops or dished type (this changes the height of your cyl head)?

yep have done alot in air conditioning. try & get a toyota kit & not a aftermarket one. second hand unit will be the cheapest, but make sure you get all the parts you need.

& they would be right 8-79 was the first ke70

they are non-interference!!!!

i use threebond which is the toyota sealant. works great but at $30 a tube not cheap, but does go along way

TRD i say no more

95 psi thats s to bloodly high. it sould be35-45 psi all the time. check your fuel pressure regulator is around the right way. could be the pump but don't use a vl one. you don't need something that big. hope this helps

thanks for ya help. that gets me out of the sh*t

i quite like the handbag version

looking at the number plates i would say thats a kiwi car which makes it a facelift ke36 wagon 77-79 model as they never got ke55,s