Hey fellas, been looking on this forum for a while and its about time to post sum pics up.

 

Its a late ke70 with a slant front

 

Engine: 4K

Reground cam(works best between 4000-7500revs)

Extractors

Sump Baffles

Aluminium harmonic balencer

Lightened flywheel 9.5 kgs (std one was 20kg)

new filters and oil

Scat racing valve springs

 

Suspension:

Rose jointed LCA's extended 30mm

Springs, cut 1 1/2 coils off

Rear swaybar removed

14" mags with rally tyres

 

Body:

Stripped

Rollcage

Kirkey aluminium race seat (cover not on in pics)

Saas gauges

Impact race harness

Aluminium fuel tank 30L

 

Excuse the left over sound deadner in the car haha

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Made a strutbrace:

 

 

And got exaust made:

 

 

is your flywheel a stock one lightened or a custom one?

Lightened flywheel 9.5 kgs (std one was 20kg)

are you sure stock was 20kg? my stock lightened one weighs 5.8kgs...

I'm not sure a 4k would spin something 20kg heavy.....

 

hehe.

 

love the car though mate. got any footage of you driving it?

In car cam! this was a crap run, but you get the idea

 

sorry its unedited, skip to about 1:20

 

http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z187/brenton36/ke70/?action=view&current=GOPR0165.mp4

Nice work!

 

I'm doing similar stuff with my car, I'm just not as far along with development. Have fun!

I'm now sourcing parts for a 5K convertion with:

 

4xmotorbike carbs

Heavy duty clutch

Alloy radiator

Electric thermo fan

Electric fuel pump

T-series diff

De-burred head and block

Bored to 1600cc

Flat top pistons

Ported and polished head

Bigger cam

Three angle valve seats

Knife edged and lightened crank

All balanced

 

Also a T3 coilover weld on kit and camber tops are on the way

 

I have organised most of the parts, just need a 5k now, if anyone has any info of 1 in WA please let me know

 

Cheers, Brenton

What's the brake bias like Brenton?? Lock up the rears on dirt?? It looks like you're running a stock system, which means there is a lot of room for improvement as braking can affect the handling just like turning the steering wheel.

Brake bias is fine, we removed the booster and added the hydraulic handbrake and when you put your foot on the pedal it bypasses the handbrake system. On our local track there is suprisingly very little braking needed and most of that is done with the hydraulic handbrake to help it get around the corners.

 

Hope that helps

 

cheers.

what did you need to change to get rid of the booster i want to get rid of mine

Just literally unbolt it, make a convertion plate that goes from the 4 holes in the firewall to the 2 holes in the cylinder(i used some 5mm ali)then take the end of the pushrod(cylinder side) and weld that onto the pedal side(cutting to length between this)there is a fair bit of adjustment if its not a perfect length, i didnt even take the brake lines off. No brake bleeding for me!

Edited August 21, 201115 yr by lappy36

and the pedal feel would be heaps better like that

Don't know much about the braking system, but what's the advantage of removing the booster?

 

The hydraulic handbrake can be set up on a seperate brak line yeah?

No, your rear brake line goes into where the resovior would normally be of the handbrake master cylender and exits from the other end going to the rear brakes.