lappy36 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Hey fellas, been looking on this forum for a while and its about time to post sum pics up. Its a late ke70 with a slant front Engine: 4K Reground cam(works best between 4000-7500revs) Extractors Sump Baffles Aluminium harmonic balencer Lightened flywheel 9.5 kgs (std one was 20kg) new filters and oil Scat racing valve springs Suspension: Rose jointed LCA's extended 30mm Springs, cut 1 1/2 coils off Rear swaybar removed 14" mags with rally tyres Body: Stripped Rollcage Kirkey aluminium race seat (cover not on in pics) Saas gauges Impact race harness Aluminium fuel tank 30L Excuse the left over sound deadner in the car haha Made a strutbrace: And got exaust made: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 is your flywheel a stock one lightened or a custom one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Lightened flywheel 9.5 kgs (std one was 20kg) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HP Racing Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 are you sure stock was 20kg? my stock lightened one weighs 5.8kgs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 I'm not sure a 4k would spin something 20kg heavy..... hehe. love the car though mate. got any footage of you driving it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 In car cam! this was a crap run, but you get the idea sorry its unedited, skip to about 1:20 http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z187/brenton36/ke70/?action=view¤t=GOPR0165.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Nice work! I'm doing similar stuff with my car, I'm just not as far along with development. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 I'm now sourcing parts for a 5K convertion with: 4xmotorbike carbs Heavy duty clutch Alloy radiator Electric thermo fan Electric fuel pump T-series diff De-burred head and block Bored to 1600cc Flat top pistons Ported and polished head Bigger cam Three angle valve seats Knife edged and lightened crank All balanced Also a T3 coilover weld on kit and camber tops are on the way I have organised most of the parts, just need a 5k now, if anyone has any info of 1 in WA please let me know Cheers, Brenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 What's the brake bias like Brenton?? Lock up the rears on dirt?? It looks like you're running a stock system, which means there is a lot of room for improvement as braking can affect the handling just like turning the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Brake bias is fine, we removed the booster and added the hydraulic handbrake and when you put your foot on the pedal it bypasses the handbrake system. On our local track there is suprisingly very little braking needed and most of that is done with the hydraulic handbrake to help it get around the corners. Hope that helps cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 what did you need to change to get rid of the booster i want to get rid of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) Just literally unbolt it, make a convertion plate that goes from the 4 holes in the firewall to the 2 holes in the cylinder(i used some 5mm ali)then take the end of the pushrod(cylinder side) and weld that onto the pedal side(cutting to length between this)there is a fair bit of adjustment if its not a perfect length, i didnt even take the brake lines off. No brake bleeding for me! Edited August 21, 2011 by lappy36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 and the pedal feel would be heaps better like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sepblaster Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Don't know much about the braking system, but what's the advantage of removing the booster? The hydraulic handbrake can be set up on a seperate brak line yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy36 Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 No, your rear brake line goes into where the resovior would normally be of the handbrake master cylender and exits from the other end going to the rear brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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