ancullen Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Posted January 16, 2006 The more money you earn the less money you keep. I remember when I used to get $5 allowance once a fortnight, and I used to save most of it! Now I get about $500 a week and I'd be lucky to save $50! Quote
ancullen Posted January 21, 2006 Author Report Posted January 21, 2006 (edited) Rolla__Boy, you were right. The back thing was held on with 10mm nuts. Thank you. Below is the result. Sorry to dial-up users, but it's time you got broadband anyway. :) BTW, I've ordered a second-hand VN radiator off eBay. It's $10 plus postage, so I can make it fit and use it for as long as it lasts and then replace it with a new one if/when it dies. EDIT: With the bumpers off, I'm thinking the car would look good with the lower half (from the little ridge along the side downwards) all black, and the top half yellow (with GT stripe over the roof of course). I'm thinking that the back end would look interesting all black, not on the sides, as they would only be black at the bottom, but just the area around the tail-lights, from the bottom of the skirt to the lip of boot. I don't know how well I've explained it, but when I paint the car in the dry season you'll see what I mean. Edited January 21, 2006 by ancullen Quote
love ke70 Posted January 28, 2006 Report Posted January 28, 2006 i reckon all corollas look the goods with no bumpers, and ur paint scheme sounds tough :y: Quote
Rolla__Boy Posted January 28, 2006 Report Posted January 28, 2006 No worries, that piece between the tail lights is held on the same, I was going to take that off mine, but it would have left holes, so I just repainted it. I put KE30 tail lights in mine too. Quote
ancullen Posted January 29, 2006 Author Report Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) I'm considering getting some RX3-style tail-lights later on and putting them on. I found something like what I want in a Hella catalogue. Of course, it will give it a very RX3 look, but I think that's still groovy. Here's what I'm considering: These first two options would be an RX3 style setup, with the two red lights on the outsides and the orange lights on the inside. OR The option below would probably be something like an orange on top of a red light toward each side of the back. Edited January 29, 2006 by ancullen Quote
Jason Posted January 29, 2006 Report Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) i recon the bar lights would look tuff if the car was like matt black, really close to each other. Wait question why are you having indicators for a track only car ??? Edited January 29, 2006 by Jason Quote
ancullen Posted January 29, 2006 Author Report Posted January 29, 2006 The indicators are because I like to be able to let people know when I'm pitting. Plus, four rounds lights at the rear will look way meaner than just two, and I've always thought that setup would look good on the back, so I'll probably do it even though I'm not getting it registered. Here's some stuff I've actually bought for Lola now: One second-hand VN Commodore radiator bought for $10 (off eBay). I know it's not in perfect condition, but it doesn't look too bad and is meant to work, plus it means I won't have spent a fortune only to find out that I can't make it fit, although I have seen pictures of another RollaClub member's KE30/55 with one of these radiators, so it should work. I just want to be doubly sure before buying an expensive three core version. Plus I could also wait until I can find a Statesman radiator: they're a 5-core - I think that would eliminate ALL cooling issues without any doubt! My 16" thermo fan which I won on eBay today for $70. It's the biggest available, but will still fit behind the radiator with room to spare. Both of these items shall be getting installed in the near future (as soon as they arrive), and I'm going to weld the diff soon. The diff has taken longer than expected because the bloke that was going to do it abandoned me, and my father-in-law is hesitant to do it because he's never done one before. I reckon I've read enough "How to" guides on the matter, but he still doesn't want to do it. But I've found someone else who seems keen enough, so I'll try him. I'd do it all myself but I've never welded before and am not keen on starting on driveline on my first go. Quote
ancullen Posted January 31, 2006 Author Report Posted January 31, 2006 I went wrecker hunting yesterday, but only needed to visit the one wreckers as it turned out. I was trying to find out if the had a Corona Avante (for the diff and struts), and a Sigma or Scorpion (for the lower control arms). It went better than expected. Here's what vehicles I found: AE82 Seca with 4A-GE Bluetop ST141 Corona CS-X (Diff was there, don't know the code) 1983 Mitsubishi Scorpion SA63R Celica with T312 Diff MX83 Cressida with G312 Diff MS83 Crown Wagon with F312 Diff 1988 Nissan Pintara (mmm, disc brake rear end) 1978 Peugeot 604 I couldn't believe my luck, a bigport 4A-GE (will investigate later). The Corona might have been a non-LSD drum brake rear end, but the struts are right. The Scorpion shall donate it's lower control arms at some point. The SA63, MX83, and MS83 all had 3.91 ratio and are non-LSD, but at least I can now choose between a 6.7", 7.5" or 8" diff. The Pintara will probably donate it's rear calipers at some point (or possibly the whole axle...). I wouldn't use the discs off the Peugeot - I'd buy new ones, but I was just amazed that there was one in Darwin. All up it was a successful trip (not that I bought anything). However I did go to Repco afterwards and bought a slide hammer and some Bendix Ultimate brake pads to suit the rear of a VN Commodore (f@$king expensive as they are). So now I can pull out my axles to weld the diff, plus I should slow down a fair bit quicker when racing. Quote
Rolla__Boy Posted January 31, 2006 Report Posted January 31, 2006 You lucky bastard :y: My local wreckers sucks lately...never anything cool :P Quote
ancullen Posted January 31, 2006 Author Report Posted January 31, 2006 I was astonished that they even had the Scorpion, because when I asked at the front counter the bloke said he thought they'd crushed all the Sigma's and Scorpion's (as should be done :y: ). Quote
Rolla__Boy Posted January 31, 2006 Report Posted January 31, 2006 I don't mind more unusual cars, like the scorpions. I like MK II Corona's too, and I have wanted one ever since I got destroyed in a race by one, in my 351 XY...I had never seen one before....and I was shocked, as my XY was pretty quick. Sexy pic... Quote
Felix Posted January 31, 2006 Report Posted January 31, 2006 the mkII corona coupes are way cool. ancullen, sounds like you really want a different car. maybe sell the corolla and buy yourself a mazda RX... Quote
ancullen Posted February 5, 2006 Author Report Posted February 5, 2006 Ugh, rotary. No thanks, not yet anyway. BTW Felix, where the hell did you get that wicked signature video from??? I LOVE IT!!! Oh yeah, my radiator turned up on Friday, so I'm going to try and install that on Monday, and hopefully the thermo fan isn't far off. Quote
Felix Posted February 5, 2006 Report Posted February 5, 2006 rotaries are cool (especially the earlier ones), although way overpriced rustbuckets. :P i found the vid in my signature from some goped site while researching how to quieten a 2 stroke. made me laugh, so i adopted it. your thing sounds like it is coming along nicely. Quote
ancullen Posted February 6, 2006 Author Report Posted February 6, 2006 (edited) On a bit different topic to what I've been going on about above, here is my current engine parts shopping list/wishlist. This is a real wishlist, as in, the wish list that I might actually achieve, not the wishlist of parts I can only dream of affording. Kelford 193-B Cams (278 Intake, 268 Exhaust) - $860 Kelford Valve Spring Set - $294 Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears - $168 Cylinder Head Port & Polish - $Unknown (But I should get mate's rates) Tune - includes: reset redline to 8,200rpm, fiddle with ABV to allow boost to hit 13psi, get fuelling right, etc - $Unknown With the above modifications (at a total cost of about $2,000 at a guess), I would be hoping to make about 180hp at the wheels and about 240hp at the engine. This may sound a lot, but I was reading today that someone in the USA got 188hp at the wheels (at a bit over 7,000rpm) by changing to a 165mm crank pulley and using 288 degree cams on an AW11 4A-GZE. He said the cams made the power a bit too peaky, so the cams I've listed should be right. I realise that I'm not changing crank pulley, but my increased rpm will compensate. That is all. Edited February 6, 2006 by ancullen Quote
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