Te31 Rat Rod Build

[sharpshane]

someone tell me what this means please?

from the hanes manuel regarding replacing the dizzy, "continue turning until the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the specified static (BTDC) timing mark on the timing cover"

 

So the BTDC is 10 before. Is opposite 10 after or like 180 of the 10before???

[jec]

to me sounds like 180 degrees opposite

[altezzaclub]

That sounds terribly inaccurate, unless they have another mark opposite the 10deg notch.

 

My Gregory's says to 'align the rotor with the mark previously made on the cylinder block.'

 

If I were you I'd just set it up with the TDC mark as usual and make sure the points are opening at 10deg BTDC on cyl one.

[sharpshane]

I have a magnetic pickup in the dizzy. I just got my 6al MSD with rev limiter in and blaster 2 coil. My next plan is to set the carbys up and run the msd. I think its still running rich so I might jet down. How do you know what size jets the carby's have? Is there a # on them or some way to measure?. Thanks!

[altezzaclub]

My electronic dizzy has 4 points on the rotor shaft that sweep past the pickup, so align #1 with that. There's only a mm gap or so at that point.

 

The jets have numbers stamped on them, each is composed of 3parts- a fuel jet, an air jet, and an emulsion tube in between them. Each component can be changed and affects performance, so spend a few hours on Google learning about jetting Webers. Find an old Fiat garage if you need jets, they usually have a boxful under the bench.

 

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcc/midgetreg/Weber.shtml

[sharpshane]

Ill start the research! Thanks for all the help!

[sharpshane]

WOOOOO! just got the MSD mounted and wired. I just have to bolt up the carbys which i just put a softmount kit on. whoever had it before me put a washer between the carb and gasket causing vac leak. I'll re set timing and fire it up. ~~~I need pics of dcoe throttle cable hookup though. just to get an idea of how to route the cable under the carbs. I can't find any pix of a 2tc with how the cable runs. Help is appreciated!!!

[altezzaclub]

Post up a few pics of what your DCOEs have on them for throttle connections.

 

here's what I did-

 

Red dots are the throttle cable, which obviously pulls.

 

Black dots are a shaft made from buying a long bolt & welding the cable quadrant onto it. The white uprights are bits of shelving brackets I had lying around home. They bolt onto the manifold.

 

Teal dots show the adjustable arm on the cable axle, that takes rotation to..

 

the purple dots and they push an adjustable Redline link bar.

 

That rotates the green dots, an adjustable arm on the throttle shaft connecting the two carbs, shown by

 

the yellow dots! At each end of the throttle shaft is an adjustable link onto the throttle butterfly of each carb.

 

..and THREE return springs, a main one for the cable part and one on each carb in case the main one breaks.

 

So it is all fully adjustable to turn the correct rotation from the cable to the correct rotation of the butterflies. You don't want to have the butterflies full open at 80% of pedal travel or you break something by pushing the pedal too hard, and you don't want full pedal travel to open the butterflies 80% only.

Edited March 25, 2012 by altezzaclub

[altezzaclub]

Here's a couple more pics-

[sharpshane]

i ordered a new cable and ill make a bracket. should be done by next week! ill be stoked to start it up. Also bought a synch tool so i can get dcoe's to match.

[sharpshane]

Here's some other work I've done too:

cleaned up the dizzy

 

new soft mount for the webers

 

msd fire power

[sharpshane]

Woooooo! The new 45's and MSD make a huge difference! Just point and punch the pedal, it's awesome!

Checked rear brakes and they were covered in oil, need to change out the bearing seals and check bearings.

Brakes look good, then on to the bleeding which 3 attempts to complete, got a mighty vac and happened to suck the resavoir dry 3 times which means Full bleed starting which MC. :bash:

 

Right adjuster was frozen so i heated it up and got it turning then took all apart, greased and reassembled. Broke Right side bleeder valve, bought new wheel cylinder and bled again.

Test drive = :rock: although its hard to see with the wind in your eyes since the windscreen is removed.

 

Problem: No headlights, I'll check relay first. Also need to solve charge light issue. I hooked up a wire before MSD to the coil + to tell the regulator to use the alt. when running. Now if I hook that up the Engine fuse blows....... :doh: The coil is obvoiusly mo bigga now so maybe i need a fatter fuse or the regulator can't handle it. Assistance and comments appreciated...

[sharpshane]

Now it's time to order up a cam. double valve springs, While thats in motion Ill have the exaust fixed as well.

 

What cam grind should i run? The most common question, I found one on toyotanation.com 241 duration @ .050 .502 lift for $160. says it pulls good from 4000 to 8000rpm.

[sharpshane]

Dammit! So I put some UNI filter pods over the horns and oiled them, toooooo much restriction the car drove like crap to my new house then I parked it and now it wont start. Got a new alt. As old one went bad. Checked for spark from MSD unit and zapped my heart a few times, definatley sparky. Gas present...for some reason when i disconnect a plug wire and hook up a spark plug and ground it to car then crank to see if the plug is sparking i get nothing, I know the msd and coil work and sprk is going to the dizzy. I have electronic or magnetic in the dizzy, no points.

 

1. Could the magnet thing go bad?

2. Could the cap or rotor be at fault? They are good visually, not burnt.

[sharpshane]

Pickup coil ohms 160ish which is good according to the book

 

MSD has 12v to red ignition wire when key to ON position

 

MSD spark test works, I get spark to the dizzy cap

 

No spark to plugs

 

Replace plug wires, cap, rotor this weekend and see what happens...