sharpshane

Setting up to wire the dash in, All in one tach, volts, water temp, oil pres. A little cleaner in the engine bay with solid connections

Ive been kinda busy... wiring, tidy up the engine bay and new wires, sanding, painting, spraying, Travis from work actually took over this point, since I have never done it, but was going to learn....good or bad.... Turned out TITS! It looks like a car now! So I put the glass in with Taiwan rubber. The back quarter window seals are impossible to find so I just took some door seal off a Ford E450 van/truck and it works perfectly! Cut to size and it seals and looks JDM. Today I got the kill switch wired correctly, turning off the car. You have to get a 4 pole switch and interupt the main power and the Field wire from your alt. I'll put the details in my wiring thread. Also got all the black rims on the same set of tires, I have 1 gold and 1 black set and they were mixed. Got an alignment done up she hugs all the turns. Aug 4th is my first Autocross practice so we'll see if she comes back in one piece. One more but at night, a little hard to see but thats the matte black absorbing the light...

Well its been awhile but the updates are... Wired a relay panel with a new switch panel ( See thread here! ) Wired up a new Tach that has oil pressure, water temp, volt meter, all in one. Covered up all wires in split tubing. New battery. Painted steering column cover, prepped dash for sticker bomb assault All windows tinted, front and rear glass in with new gaskets Needs for soon: Install 5 point harness Fix fuel leak Install dash panel and mount switch panel Drive it...she is calling to me...

Home built relay panel and power blocks, going in the glovebox. All connection soldered, a few minor burn injuries but succesfull quickcar switch panel!!! awesome!!! all gold connection soldered, heavy duty switches... drool...

Ok so today I started the fun A preview of the rat nest of taped and twisted together wires, no butt conections, just tape and twist. I'm surprised it lasted this long... The pile of waste... Take the dash out... make a snake and label each end, make sure you cut them extra long so each circuit has 1 wire and eliminates connections. Taped the snake every 4-6 inches then ran thru fire wall, then in the engine bay route the wires to there associates Cut and solder your wires for a solid connection, my first time doing this and they are dam strong, used heat shrink tube too, but make sure its not too close to the solder point cause when the wire heats up the heat shrink does its job and shrinks in place then you can't use it. That's all today, tomorrow I start the relay panel.

OR like this... sorry its chicken scratch...

In someone's 'expert electrical' opinion.... Should I put 1 relay between the starter and push start button? Or just run that straight. Should I put a relay between the 12v "bank" and IGN switch? This way the IGN doesn't take all the load OR just go direct from IGN on to 12 v bank and put relays between the acc. items and switches?

brakes pulling to the left, found that when I did them last year I got one brand new rotor and had the other turned which caused the left one to be thicker thus grabbing first. So I put some drilled slotted rotors in.

check your fuses first, Check the altanator belt, check the altanator and battery

I would like none of the switches to work until the ignition switch is on. So would I wire that switch between the "power bar" and other switches? Should the relay be in between each componet and the switch?

So my car has been wiring from an arrangatang. Wires going all over to the accesory fuse panel, no fuses, no relays. I bought a Quikcar ignition panel to wire up and need some help deciding what to do. I have a push button start with 6 accesory switches. Fuel pump, Fan, Horn, starter, wipers, ignition. The switch panel has fuses for each switch already. Should I put a relay in between each switch and componet or just one in between power and a distribution box to power all the switches? I will show pics of what I have now and a diagram later.

ripped the fuel tank out... rusted inside and paint peeling on the outside sanded and coated with 2 cans of truck bed liner spay added some red for contrast and done! new bolts and filter too!

click on the pic and it should re direct u to photobucket

Video of the rat, tuned pretty good, exaust too

Had fuel problems, dumped fuel cell and found the 1 small filter to be way dirty. Then I grabbed 2 more filters and I'm going to clean out the cell then we should be good.

Exaust done today! got a new flange put on the header and the pipe. put allied street flow and its nice and low at idle and crack when you stab at it! :jason:

Today I'm taking rat to the exaust shop, getting a flange for the header put on and a louder sound.

Pickup coil was fine after testing two others from the store, all in range of 130-160 ohms restistance which is fine. Found the starter not cranking fast enough due to POS from parts store, ordered another one, they tested it before i took it and it was bad too, ordered another one and we have turnover! That's 4 starters! Engine spinning fast enough now we have spark! Hooked up MSD again and she wanted to fire but the oil from the UNI filters clogged the carbs. Carb cleaner soak and waaalaaaa! She lives again!!!! Back to getting the cam and port and polish head with valve springs.

Got home after a few hours letting the carb soak in carb cleaner. Boom started right up, All because i put those damn uni filters and oiled them which clogged the carbs. Also when I put the alty in and wired it wrong it kept blowing the engine fuse. All caused by my own hands dammit, whatever she runs and revs awesome now. On to the next mod...

New starter helped. The engine was not spinning fast enough to get the magnetic pickup to signal the ignition box. Sparks great. Now it tries to start with starter fluid but it sounds like its not getting gas, I believe that when i had the UNI filters on the horns that were oiled that the oil gunked up the carbs. I will tear apart and clean tonight and see what happens.

I got a new alt and found that the wires were mixed up hooking to the alt. Someone has cut the plug and put 3 female spade connectors so I mixed the Feild and Ground. It's hard to see the little letters when the alt is installed so after looking at the one in the box, bam firgured it out. So that solves my engine fuse blowing. Still no spark though....

I had the same problem, my alt wires were mixed up

i have the same car man! Let me know if you need anything

Engine fuse blows while voltage regulator plugged in but if not its fine. I figure the alty wouldnt blow a fuse and ordered a new regulator, ill see if the condition is the same with the new one. Did a cool test to find shorted wires, hook up a circuit breaker, like 20amp to the fuse box with clips, the circuit will get hot then disconnect and cool down and connect ect. Then you take a compass, and follow the wires from that circuit, the compass will point to the wires while connected because its creating a magnetic field then when the circuit breaks it will point away. You have to go every couple inches and watch the compass. When you find a point that the compass is still pointing toward the wires while the circuit is 'off' then you found the area of the short. Dig in :jason: and look at the wires. This helped me narrow down where the short was happening which was the regulator bundle, took all the wires apart and didn't find any breaks in the wire but put the multi meter to the test on the reg and found fault. Crossing my fingers on this one. :clover:

Coil getting hot is normal for the amount of time IGN was on. Found another ext regulator plugged it in, engine fuse still blows with alt and reg. I think the alt is bad, ill pull it and test it. The ignition is wired to a push button(rally car style) There are no fuses or relay's to it, ya think the switch is going bad and how do I test that? Resistance i guess