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3Tc With Efi???


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ok so i have a 3tc that is getting built for my ke70. heres the thing i want to

swap out the carb for fuel injection. i wanted try and incorporate a CAS into the dizzy

(possible 4age 20v or maybe even a sr20 CAS). now I'm not sure if anyone has done this before,

i want to get the motor running and then possibly convert to turbo. i don't want to play around with Fuel only ecus. any thoughts or info.....????

 

thanks

Andy

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WANT!!! man I have a 3tc I'm looking at turboing and want efi, 2tg will work, but an adaptor plate needs to be made, you will find this irrespective of whatever plans you have, manifold width, port size, injector size, everything would be a contributing factor. I know www.brdracing.com have manifolds, but yes I'm in the same boat. If I can find something with similar port distribution I could adapt a 3tc flange and run that I would be better off price wise. Let me know what you find and I will, the furtherst I got was comparing 2tg to 3tc inlet manifold gaskets. Maybe all I need is some encouragement. Pm for more insight cheers

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Easy way to go EFI, is do a 2TGEU head conversion... Comes with EFI. Other thing that can be done getting half of one of these...

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=IN&Category_Code=XFIEightStackSystems

It uses a side draught weber style, but downwards. Have a chat with these dudes, and let them know what you want to do, get hold of a side draught weber manifold, bolt on, and enjoy.

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A 2tgeu head conversion requires almost a complete 2tgeu. minus the block, crank rods and pistons. may as well get the complete engine and stroke it using 3t crank and pistons?!

 

some options...

3t-eu efi. bolt on efi to 3t-c. found on jdm ta63 celica/carina and possibly tt142? corona. hard to find though.

 

2tgeu inlet with adaptor plate. should be able to buy adaptors off the shelf. search http://www.3tcgarage.com/ as i've seen the conversion done on there a few times. unfortunately the forums were recently lost. port size and spacing is the same. so only need to adapt the bolt pattern.

 

3t-c sidedraft manifold (aftermarket) with aftermarket efi throttles to suit dcoe/dhla/phh flange. expensive.

 

2t-g oem sidedraft manifold with adaptor plate and aftermarket efi throttles as above. expensive

 

Custom inlet manifold to suit efi bike throttles. One of the better options. make sure they have a TPS and injectors mounted in the bodies which is easier to make the inlet. Avoid the ones with constant velocity slides. The 3t head flange only needs tubes on it as the throttles are usually connected with flexi hose. need custom accelerator cable. will need to make a custom plenum if boosting.

 

Custom inlet manifold with injector bosses and fuel rail mounts to suit 20v throttles. The throttles are closer spaced than the 3t ports so the runners need to be kinked. If boosting, probably better to use a single throttle on a plenum.

 

Custom inlet manifold with plenum, throttle body and injectors.

 

Adapt the plenum off something else. Have read of people using sr20 exhaust manifolds on 3t with a flange swap.. so chances are the inlet ports are spaced the same too. food for thought.

 

or lastly, adapt a single point fuel injection throttle body in downdraft orientation. wouldn't be the most performance oriented, but it'd sure beat a std down draft carb. They come on the 4s-fi powered st170 corona for instance. saw one on an audi the other day too.

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Electronic distributor can be swapped from 3t-eu, 13t-u and 2tgeu. 13t-u come in the jap townace for instance. the cap on those are larger diameter than found on 3t-c and 2tgeu. They all have a 4 lobe VR sensor though like the 18r-geu or 4k-u/5k-j. which is one pulse per combustion event. ie cannot run wastespark or sequential from it. but they can be modified to suit both. ie a replacement multi lobe trigger wheel with a missing tooth for wastespark

Or for sequential, can add a second single lobe trigger wheel in place of the mechanical advance weights with a 2nd sensor mounted through the side of the distributor. or

Trim off 3 of the 4 lobes to use as the sync signal, and add a trigger wheel and sensor to the crank pulley. This is the most performance oriented option.

The same could be done with a points distributor.. ie add a trigger wheel on the dizzy shaft and mount a VR or Hall effect sensor through the side of the housing. plenty of modern engines with suitable sensor for this.

Crank triggered timing is the most accurate as it doesn't have any timing chain slop or distributor gear backlash.

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