springersrolla

Heres the sheet, still curious to driving characteristics

Intake dur @ 50" 252 ex @50" 240

Gday, finally starting to get sorted and pulled my finger out. Have a 5k bored 40thou. All balanced and lightened. Running flattop pistons machined to 11.6:1 CR. Top end is ported with o/s valves and double valve springs. Have flowtest and info, flows intake 139cfm at 550". Intake is twin 40mm dcoe I have had a cam built and i dialed it in the other day and found it was a little out so had it checked and is 498" lift @305° duration. Now i understand this will be a sizeable cam but its only a sunday driver, cam builder is well known and has built it to suit all info. I'm going to put it in, but curious to see if anyone is running similar size and driving characteristics??? Been told its pretty well a drag cam....

This is my head, still yet to be finished and running

Valve size I can't remember. I bought the head already built and then sunk a heap of more money into it. Will chase emails and measure for you. I remember they were at least 1mm o/s

Be interested to hear compression ratios and what valve springs your all running

Loving the progress mate keep up the good work

I think it's gh sigma lcas are wider than the xt130/kexx lcas. Ball joint can be modified to suit

Take each spark plug out, one at a time. Put it in its spark plug boot and sit it close to the engine block crank the motor. and get it to arc. You will see the little spark, might help if it's darker or shaded. Next when your confident that all your spark plugs are working, Dissy is firing on all 4 report back

Legends. Thanks for the help, yeah curious about the way it switched with the one wire, I'm gonna look at putting one of the radiator hose adaptors for temp gauge and factory sender swapped out for that ae82 thermo switch. Ill see how she goes. Good onya lads

Hey guys i have a thermo fan to setup on my corolla and have a thermatic switch i grabbed from an ae82 i think its on at 90 off 85, can't remember. Any ways looking for ideas on how to wire it into the car. I have found a few ideas and some must run 2 wires. This one only has a spade terminal. This is a pic i found on the net, an i on the right track?? Or is there ways to simplify it? Cheers

Ive used one identical to that chinese one. It had a heater and ultrasonic, seemed alright but wanted the vibration to be more aggressive. I tried to clean up 40mm webers in it with about 70° water and i can't remember the % of tartaric acid. Cleaned up well and left a lot of dirt and varnish in the water but still required longer. I guess a few days and youd be laughing. If its cheap enough should pay for itself

Hey guys thanks for the responses, yep it was missing an eclip on the bottom part of the cable. Pulled it thru the bellhousing and put the clip on, hooked up clutch pedal and all good. Thanks all

Hey dudes trying to getvmy corolla moving and need some help with the clutch cable. I have one that I'm sure i used years ago, i fed it from the back of the box up into the firewall, clipped it on the clutch pedal, went underneath and clipped it on to the clutch fork. Now i have about 3" of slack at the rubber stopper at the firewall. Cable seems loose at the fork end, slides into the box but thats it, i don't have the spring on the fork at the moment but its not moving much either. May have had a brain fart and put the box in without the throwout but the fork seems firm and no slop. Theres no way to feed the cable from the front back as the cable wont separate at the clutch end. I'm at my wits end and the next step is to pull out the box and check throwout. Is there anything else i should be looking for???? Thanks in advance

Late ae92 or ae101. Smallport, cas, coilpacks, squirters. Probably the pick

Whens the last time it was serviced? So many factors, put some new plugs in, check resistance of leads, clean earths and check power to coil. Check for vacuum and exhaust leaks, clean needle and seat. So many things you can do for little cost. Then rev the guts out of it. K motors love it. can't kill em

Its only roughly -2 camber. Find a die nut i think its m16x1.25 and wind it down your castor arms. I noticed big improvements with sigma lca and more castor

Sure. Good idea

Thanks gjm, yeah I'm getting cup and ball pushrods made. I figured as much with the rocker posts/compared to using the adjustable thread. My pushrod measure was actually 177.5mm roughly 7". Thats with 3f lifters in a d dish head. Whats the 150mm from??

Thanks for the responses and sorry stu for interrupting the camping trip. Was gonna pm but glad you chirped in. Thanks tommys ke also. Head has new valve guides, all is good there. Will run the outers only in the cam bedding process. Main concern is how to work out best pushrod length once i have tdc and whether or not valve wipe or rocker adjustment is ideal/milling rocker posts to base circle adjustment. Man thanks stu. Camping and still checking rollaclub your as bad as me:) thanks in advance

Hey guys righto paint the picture I'm building a 5k that has a 5k dish head with 5k flat top pistons that have been machined to 11.6:1 cr. Have had the head skimmed to bring everything up wth cr to 11.6. Have measurements but not on me at the moment. I am running 3f solid lifters in replacement of hydraulics with later model 4k adjustable rocker gear under direction of my cam builder requiring more clearance on my exhaust valve with the compression hence the need for custom rods. Questions i have 1. Cam builder has said to run in cam with light weight springs- can anyone suggest a suitable spring, should i be looking at coil bind or spring rate? I'm running double valve spring and once again don't have the measurements with me, can i remove the inners and run the cam in or should i look at a light set to run? Cam builder has suggested what spring rate to run as normal motor and the doubles meet that. 2. I'm looking at dialing in the cam in, and once i have tdc I'm going to use my old 3k pushrods that i have cut a section out of and made into adjustables, is valve wipe the crucial part here, or should i be looking for a medium on my adjustment threads. Also is it ideal for me to take a mill to my rocker posts to suit the cut off the base circle of the cam to get more accurate?? 3. Once i assume my rocker post/valve wipe is correct I'm looking at buying a set of 4140 chromemoly rods to suit the motor. If i degree this assumed length with adjustable pushrods theoretically everything should be correct and i have no more dramas? Is there anything else valve train related that may catch me out and i need to look out for? Apart from painting my engine bay and fitting carbs the motor will be ready to run. Any advice is greatly appreciated and can get measurements if needed. Cheers

There's a website called http://www.turbogemini.com/ use that as a guide. You need to use a turbo hat on the 32/36 and change the brass float. Use a rising rate fpr. The sr20 manifold has the correct spacing, not bolt pattern, so u need an adaptor plate or modify, i looked at doin a 3tc but had dramas with machining and time. Still have a manifold to suit t3 flange. Heaps of dudes in Puerto rico doin them

http://www.brdracing.com/ I used to run a 32/36dgv weber and extractors. Went alright. Just turbo it, will still be streetable. Lots of mods, compression,carb,spark,exhaust,cam etc

Sweet as. Must be happy now

Yeah same i had to run solids to give more clearance for my exhaust lifters. Cam builders request. 500 lift, high compression