springersrolla

edited post was too drunk :( :oops:

so here i am, the fat beareded non santa that should be but not really... I'm 6'3" and 120kg with a ke35 and all i want is to do dirty mutherʞ©$ɟing burnouts and love this car. ive just had to put the neighhbours dog back in their yard and fucck..... so my story runs.... ke35 off a mate years ago, rust and injury free apart from a Tbone in a drivers door...... other than that and a ʞ©$ɟing mega stack of beers ive started. origninally i built this weapon to run a 5k i bought fro a ke70.. loved it.... minimal issues, got the car running and registered for a dick weed mate who drove it round. he finally got a work car and i took it off the road to put a 3t in it. ʞ©$ɟ!!!!!!! man what am i doing swapping gold out for pewter?>!?!?!?! that motherʞ©$ɟing 3t had more bark than alot of 4cyls and yet still I'm a ʞ©$ɟing retard to hold back...... sold the best engine i had for some garbage rebuild 5k and thats where I'm at.................. Now,........ Anyone whos half cluey with 40mmdcoe twins with my setup i need some love. ive just built a 40thou over 5k bottom end, crank, rods and slugs balanceds, the compression ratio I'm running is with 5k solid slugs which have been cut down to give me 11.6:1 compression ratio I have phill duggan making me a tropppo cam to suit the head flow and compression, but now my issues is what the ʞ©$ɟ do i do with with my 40mmdcoe webers................ Blown4k off clubk says run big venturies..... now my issue is well this is the last step before cam install in my engine.................... but i want to start with the right carb setup. anyone half cluey who can help me out would bew aw0esome because I'm about to set these carbs up to suit this engine. the cars a bucket of shit..... alll go no show but i can't wait to have some little k motor on the streets

so here i am, the fat beareded non santa that should be but not really... I'm 6'3" and 120kg with a ke35 and all i want is to do dirty mutherʞ©$ɟing burnouts and love this car. ive just had to put the neighhbours dog back in their yard and fucck..... so my story runs.... ke35 off a mate years ago, rust and injury free apart from a Tbone in a drivers door...... other than that and a ʞ©$ɟing mega stack of beers ive started. origninally i built this weapon to run a 5k i bought fro a ke70.. loved it.... minimal issues, got the car running and registered for a dick weed mate who drove it round. he finally got a work car and i took it off the road to put a 3t in it. ʞ©$ɟ!!!!!!! man what am i doing swapping gold out for pewter?>!?!?!?! that motherʞ©$ɟing 3t had more bark than alot of 4cyls and yet still I'm a ʞ©$ɟing retard to hold back...... sold the best engine i had for some garbage rebuild 5k and thats where I'm at.................. Now,........ Anyone whos half cluey with 40mmdcoe twins with my setup i need some love. ive just built a 40thou over 5k bottom end, crank, rods and slugs balanceds, the compression ratio I'm running is with 5k solid slugs which have been cut down to give me 11.6:1 compression ratio I have phill duggan making me a tropppo cam to suit the head flow and compression, but now my issues is what the ʞ©$ɟ do i do with with my 40mmdcoe webers................ Blown4k off clubk says run big venturies..... now my issue is well this is the last step before cam install in my engine.................... but i want to start with the right carb setup. anyone half cluey who can help me out would bew aw0esome because I'm about to set these carbs up to suit this engine. the cars a bucket of shit..... alll go no show but i can't wait to have some little k motor on the streets

Man theres stacks of info out there. The general info on the xt130 is it will only fit 14's and up. The stock lower spring perch i have is standard but have a thinner diameter spring installed with ke30 tops. Just google xt130 into ke

Doh!

going well mate!! bet you can't wait to drive it again

lincoln powermig 180c, can't fault it. welds magic gas/gasless

Coby or Rush automotive from NZ??? I'm wondering what will work for me. I have 4-1 but have heard 4-2-1 are better?!?!.....

Good shit mate!!! Good to see anpther coupe gettin a good home, that photo you had at 16, i had an exact copy of that corolla with hotwires. I miss that thing. Looks like youve got a good project there

xt130 struts, big brakes, mine are a huge difference to standard, still running stock master, can upgrade easy to cressida brakes on top. opens the options to coilovers down the track, good shocky range and springs, i have xt130 struts in the front with i think ford capri?(convertable) model springs and possibly ke3x strut tops,.... maybe corona fits, with sigma lower control arms, handles like a dream

The outer diamension on the bottom one looks smaller than the top one, may just be the photo, one looks to he solid and the other hydraulic. Do you have pushrods for both?? Nothing different other than the internals hey???

Couldnt tell you sorry mate but $500 was for everthing balanced lightened flywheel bored honed decked etc

I just had my 5k done. Bit off the crank rods and pistons. Take your balancer crank and flywheel and pressure plate and do it as one. Defiinately worth it

beeeeeen a long time since a update, sold the 3t. bought back the 5k, took it for a rebuild. got told it was a touch from standard, so we went 40 thou over. i have have the entire bottom end fully balanced and blueprinted only to find i couldnt achieve the compression ratio i required, I'm running a twin squish/ d dish/ 1 & 4 lug head on a 5k bottom end. unfortunately running this combination has brought a few dramas, only minor like worng piston selection and major such as not drinking enough beer to sort everything out. the beer has been flowing since the begining of the build and has probably slowed everything but this is now how it stands 5k bored 40thou or 81.5mm balanced pistons - originally @ 20cc ===== which only delivered 9.2:1 balanced rods, crank, harmonic balancer, clutch seriously lightened flywheel twin 40mm dcoe webers with 27mm chokes(unsure of the quality of flow or fuel or capabilities of the engine) fully ported and flowed 5k head flowing 139cfm @ .550 lift custom cam being ground as this is being typed new 5.5cc pistons being machined to 12cc to deliver 11:1 compression ratio to run troppo cam toyota 3f solid lifters (new) nothing else i can think of at the present other than that i need some 4ku/e pushrods to make it all work, bit of a pause but not too bad as I'm waiting to get the cam ground etc.. hopefully have the thing run in over xmas holidays. spoke to my cam grinder and asked how important idle was. well i said, yeahh...... so ill see what comes out of it. ive been told the head and bottom end is well and truely capable of making 140hp so its now up to the cam and webers. standby for a few pictures and more info. and let me know bout dem 4ke rods!!!

keep doing situps, theyll turn up eventually

Your very ʞ©$ɟing lucky could have been a painful and costly experience. Lucky you clued on to the sound

yeh id say you have a t series bellhousing u need a a series http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/engine-driveline-conversions/7521-series-bellhousing-old-t-series-transmission.html

Simple answer is no. Blow off valve works between the outlet side of the turbo compressor to the intake manifold and is designed to relieve pressure when the inlet manifold butterfly is closed to help prevent pressure build up still being forced from the turbo. You have nothing there if it is a stock 3k. You would need to run a turbo manifold from your exhaust system thru a j pipe or custom manifold, a pipe from your turbo to carby or another style of intake, box it to handle the pressure and a fuel system to suit. Have a look on here theres plenty of k series turbo builds

Holden, ford or chev 2nd hand one and modify pulleys to suit. Seen them go for 100-150

I know its no cosworth and never will be but I'm always looking for better ways to improve old engines with new style and technology. My head has been smoothed beyond butter to improve drainback and all i look for is better more modern ways to improve anything from a 60's design to start with. High volume doesnt mean high pressure and thats what is was leaning against with a hv oil pump setup its only a fail safe for cheap and just looks like a longer gear and housing to produce more volume at the same or similar pressure to boyles law. I'm all for ideasand understand its an old style motor but still over the whole "Faq" see better ways to advance things here and there with knowledge and technologu. I choose i k motor because i ʞ©$ɟing can't get away from them no matter how far i run. Corolla blood amd its not healthy but i love them. Positive encouragement or not i want it all and more. Love it and love this site

hey lads, been thinking bout this build and a mate was saying to me about the bottom end to see if i could get my hands on a high volume oil pump. after a bit of research/remembering, the t series gerotor and k series are apparently the same. I toyodiy.com this and cross reference a t18 with a 3t to a ke70 with a 4k and the part number is the same, as is the pickup/bottom plate with strainer http://www.toyodiy.c...LMESN_1501.html - t18 3T http://www.toyodiy.c...EMDCQ_1501.html - ke70 4k i then got on the brd racing website cause i remembered they did a hv oil pump suit 3t. brd quotes - High Volume oil pump - $169.00 Fitment: 2TC, 3TC, 3TEU, 2TG(E), 3TG(TE) 25% more flow Over Stock. Modified To Deliver The Oil You Need. Better Than any "Over the Counter" Oil Pump From your Local Parts Store! http://brdracing.com...2tc_3tc_oil.htm curious to see if anyone has modified a oil pump to increase flow, and whether anyone has played around with this setup before ?? cheers

yeh i like what your saying altezza, ive been reading about racecars with white or silver to see spills,leaks and other issues easily. white bay with a bit of colour on the block and some chrome could look good, even body colour coded rockercover and the likes. ive gotta get it clean to start with and then organise my compressor and ill let you all know how i go

yeh mate thats the drama with the satin black. looks shit afer 12+ months. do it once do it right. unsure on colour cause i wanna do the car a different colour down the track, now is the ebgine bay colour, next is whole car

contemplating gloss black or dull silver. had a mate suggest the inside of a tinny like a white with spattered black. gloss black will probably be eas iest

getting my engine back soon and after ideas about what to do with my engine bay. i have satin blacked it and it looks shit and i want to tidy it up. removing the previous colour is going to be fun. but then what.... any good suggestions to making it look neat?? cheers