springersrolla

Should be sweet

You should be able to get camber bolts for the rear, i found this just a quick search http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/m/tm.aspx?m=93571&p= what bush kit did u get??

If i remember correctly you can use a grubscrew. I have solid lifters and compared to the hydraulic ones the hole is in a different spot to the groove in the hydraulic. Ill get some pics when i get home. Hopefully someone more insightful will chime in

http://www.brdracing.com/3tc_valvetrain.htm

Say what you want about the lip but it just carved the best bow wave through flood waters so I could get home. Carpet is a bit wet. Needs more snorkel!!! Looking good mate glad its working well for u. Shame bout the old 70 but i guess it makes way for a fresh project. What u reckon 3sgte down the track for the mr2 or what?? Looks like itd be a handful as is

Personally i would go 4age or 3t. The k motors are awesome but its just dollars to chase minimal hp. All depends on what your looking for. Hands down your cheapest option would be a 7k-te for best power and drivebility. would imagine that it would pull hard

So shes still goin strong. Done a heap of work and enjoying it. 3 window channels had rusted out and stopped the windows winding up/down so i found some new ones and put them in, tps and tune all sorted and still cheap as shit on fuel. Best i have returned is about 7.6lts and thats driving fairly spirited. Car is sitting with brand new kyb struts all round and sl king springs. Not cheap but worth it. Nice and tight with superpro bushes also. No other real plans for it hust yet other than tidying it up and trying to keep it original. Still yet to see another red one on my travels but sure theres heaps around. have to sus out a cruise

Jump on ozgemini or something similar. Its off a 1600cc i think it also runs a fuel return so look at that. Chokes are for girls. Slap it on and see

Same carb just auto choke. Rumour is they run well. Sure its the same bolt pattern

Looks like a g161 gemini carb. I have one ag home ill get pics tonight

That sucks mate! Hope its a quick process to get it sorted and gets you back out on the track. Whats your best time/mile so far?

http://www.sq-engineering.com/auto-wiring.html

Sweet as! Needs more front lip. maybe lower. Maybe turbo. Less spotlights. All my opinion thou. Should be a fun project

Looks sweet mate. Well done glad its worked out cheap enough for you and wasnt a disaster. Go get some kms on it!

Well done banjo. Site needs more of this!

thumbs down

Find where 1 is on the cap. That is where the centre of the rotor button needs to point. Put a mark with a scratch. Pen. Anything to know that no.1 on the cap is pointing to number 1 on the body of the dizzy that the rotor button lines up to. Install the dizzy and it will want to spin a bit. Hold the rotor button and it will sort of drop in and turn a few degrees. Keep trying until no.1 is tdc. Pulleys lined up. Balancer is tdc and dizzy at 1. can't get it wrong and will be a pain if not. Keep trying

Thanks for the tips, when I dummied it up I checked the rocker wipe but didnt bearing blue it. It didnt look too aggressive or look like it would put too much angle. Ill dummy it back up again as I need to make sure I have the right length pushrods. Cheers

Hey dudes I'm close to getting engine back together and want to know how accurate the "how to build tough k motor" quote is "You accomplish this by lowering the axis upon which the rockers move, which is supported by the rocker posts. Toyota had it pretty well setup from factory, so a good rule is to have the rocker posts accurately machined down by the amount of valvelift you have added to the engine. Stock lift is about 0.340", so say you're running 0.400" lift, you need to have the rocker posts machined down about 0.060"." I'm running approx 500 lift and according to this around 4mm should do the trick??? I am yet to find a decent machinist after my bloke went awol but is this the right starting point for me to ask for?. Tia

The pulleys are at tdc but is the dizzy?? Should be pointing at 1 on the cap

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=57522 http://www.matrixgarage.com/content/4age-tps-adjustment http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8286 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59798-4age-timing-set-me-straight/page__st__15

I reckon the dizzy is out if your getting it almost starting and not running. Drop a long screwdriver down number 1 to find top dead centre. Take the dizzy cap off. Check firing order of the plugs and make sure that the rotor button inside the dizzy is pointing to number 1 for the cap to fire. If not you will have to rotate the shaft off the dizzy on the cam gear to line up with 1. Use a paint pen or something to know where 1 is on the dizzy body. Hopefully the car can start and you can play around with a timing light with the ecu in check mode to get timing spot on. Wouldnt hurt to check tps as you don't need it running and is simple with feeler gauge and multimeter. Keep slogging away youll get it

www.brdracing.com Ill just leave that with you. And yes keep the motor. They are awesome. Keep it clean tidy and running well. Do up a build thread

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R31 is 4x114.3 same as corolla. Keep same studpattern. Can upgrade to discs or get lucky and find one as is. Much more useable diff gears to find for cheap. I still think 300 for that diff is up there. See if u can find someone wrecking a pintara/skyline locally. If you rip your diff out just copy the leaf perches whencits shortened. Id just run with stock diff. I sourced a ke38 auto diff and didnt seem to be as loud/whinging as my original and 4.3 gears.same goes. Maybe find a cheap auto diff and keep it as a spare. I think there reasonably strong treated right. I give mine abuse and hasnt had dramas