white_sandshoe

Anyone in Perth, should go and have a chat with Ken and see this in the flesh... No picture does that paint justice. And I really dig the stripes. Didn't think I would, but yeah... it works so well.

Giggling my ass off at all the people talking about height when the question is about width... :P

Width wise, as wide as you friggin want... Provided the track isn't widened by more than 20mm (I think that's the figure) Have to remember to go in as much as you go out, which is difficult since suspension components get in the way... So that's what your limits are... Physical, rather than legal

Pure... American... Car... PORN!!! If you're into like, bestiality and stuff... Or you watched 'Two girls, one cup' more than once...

Easy way to go EFI, is do a 2TGEU head conversion... Comes with EFI. Other thing that can be done getting half of one of these... http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=IN&Category_Code=XFIEightStackSystems It uses a side draught weber style, but downwards. Have a chat with these dudes, and let them know what you want to do, get hold of a side draught weber manifold, bolt on, and enjoy.

Yeah, there's not much you can say to a 1:1 power to weight ratio... 1200odd hp in a 1200odd kg car... WIN

Not overly fussed on plates... I'm not keeping it standard, and I lack the necessary nostalgia. I guess that's the problem with these sorts of cars falling into the hands of modifiers, not restorers. Speaking of it, I picked up a Carb off a 12A turbo. Factory blow through... That'll make it's way onto the 5K at some point. And, in the mean time, got a decent 4K, and borrowing a side draught Weber off a mate. :P Need to re-trim the seats, and have a look at suspension bushings and brakes... Then see if she can get licensed.

My rant. I'm sick of early classic corollas of the KE10 and 20 varieties particularly, being advertised as "would be great for drifting" Let's look at the validity of this statement... KE20 wheelbase is slightly longer than a KP60 Starlet... Are they good for drifting? No... They are very twitchy, due to the wheelbase being so short. Yes, I have seen one drift, and no, it wasn't cool. It looked bloody awful. In a motorsport where scoring is based on a particular style, an early corolla is a woeful choice. The first two generations of corollas are also extremely light in comparison to other more commonplace drift cars. While some may consider that to be an advantage, it actually is detrimental. A large factor in drifting, specifically the ability for a car to negotiate a corner while sliding, is traction... When a car is too light, and a slide is initiated, the front wheels will be less able to maintain their traction coefficient, since traction is largely dependent on pressure on the tire. With a early KE, excluding engine conversions to much heavier engines, this will always be a limiting factor. Even with a more powerful engine (which in drifting, would be a given) there's a whole range of issues that would actually exacerbate. In drifting, 'holding the slide' is managed in part by balancing the traction coefficient of the rear tires. This is done by controlling the pendulous effect of 'swinging the tail' through maintaining enough traction on the rear treads while the slide is in progress. There are two factors that affect the speed at which changes in the angle of the car are made. First, the traction coefficient of the rear tires. Yes, they are spinning, they have 'broken traction', but there will still remain an amount of traction, and must, if you hope to properly control the slide. Any minor upsets in the road will alter that traction coefficient. In a heavier car, the effects of those discrepancies in surface are less obvious, since the percentage they affect traction is minimal. In a light car, the same bump will displace the same amount of mass, but due to a lower starting mass, the percentage, and therefor the effect will be much greater. Second, this is going back to basic physics and lever principles... A shorter lever moves further with the same force... Take two cars that are the same weight, and same weight balance. One with a long wheelbase and one with a short wheelbase. Apply the same amount of force to the rear axle line of both cars, and the short wheelbase car will end up at a greater angle. This may sound good in the world of drifting... more angle! sweet! But it's not. What it means is, that on hitting those surface discrepancies, that same amount of force that the other, longer wheel base cars negotiated easily, will create a larger, and faster change in direction, requiring a much much higher level of skill to regain control. Also, the force in effect is dampened less by the lighter weight, so you've not only got a shorter lever to be thrown in, you've also got a higher percentage of force providing actual movement. Add into that higher unsprung weight (diff conversion would almost be manditory...) acting against the light car, and it's a recipe for disaster. But mainly, it looks dreadful. Classic corollas of the late 60's and early 70's have a style about them that is not suited to the big rim/bodykit/low slung world of drift. If you want a drift car, think seriously about what is competitive. Why aren't there KE20 drifters all over the place? maybe, just maybe there is a reason for it... Use your friggin brains people. Please stop advertising these cars for sale, and saying they'd be "great for drift" just because you've pulled out the interior, sold off the engine, and realised you've bitten off more than you could chew with your project, and you want cash to buy a car that would ACTUALLY be good for drift... End Rant.

it made its way to Perth, and yes, now resides in my collection. :P dude who bought it from Shannons sold it on to me for a decent price. It's intended to be my daughter's car, provided she likes it when she gets to driving age... a small part of me hopes she won't. lol

holy crap!!! there's laws against that shit. i've had a crap day too, but that just made mine seem peachy by comparison. farking arsehats selling other peoples things! Lynch mob anyone?

Take a look at brake upgrades on the Sigma struts, as I am led to believe these are bolt in, as with Scorpion and possibly Starion gear. If you decide to go mental with it, 4G63 with L200/L300 box for RWD goodness would be fun... With how yours is, I'd personally make it tidy, maybe slight drop, and pretty sounding zorst to turn more heads than it already will. :P

No, not for a while... Focussing on the toyotas first. I got mine as a pretty straight shell. Not much interior, but complete mechanically... Since it needs full rebuilding, i'm putting an SR20DE and T series diff into it, and just making it a nice street cruiser... It's easily a year before I touch it other than to move it out of the way.

Hey all... Tripped over this lovely old thread. Life got in the way, shifted to Darwin, and it got shoved to the back of the shed. Not in a bad way either... She's been fully stripped back, everything pulled out that can be, and kept nice and dry. She is playing second fiddle to another project I'm working on, but she is definitely not forgotten. She's also gained a younger sister! The engine combo I've pieced together originally for her is now going into a KE15, and the sub 100,000km 7KE I pulled out of a crashed Liteace (with G52 gearbox which fits in the trans tunnel, i might add) is now on the engine stand waiting for the V6 T18 to get built, so I can do the sump and engine mounts to slot her in... It's going to be about 3 months before I start playing with her again, but she's next in line!

DO IT!!! I'll be doing up my 2 door sedan at some point too... then I can steal all your ideas and copy them. :D But seriously, they are awesome cars, and even awesomer in such good condition.

Ahhhh... ADM 4A bellhousing.

Aaaaand to paraphrase the ever-wise Redwarf... Picsorban

Picsorban :D

4M is pretty easy to service and maintain... If you're looking to modify, that's a different story. 4M is kinda like a 4AC in that respect... Like polishing a turd.

I think the 20 could be on par if done in the same way... Dumb ass idea keeping the window surrounds... go full roadster... no roof at all, same as the KE10

Hey Mitch, what did that cost to put together? for a point of reference...

I paid $350 for just the charger and inlet/outlet pipes... I think that's about the going rate. If it's got brackets and stuff to suit a K motor, then I'd almost double that... say $550-600?

Guys at the pits here in WA told it straight. They take the effort someone has put into the presentation of the car (good paint, polished, cleaned inside and out) as an indicator of how hard to look over something... If someone has obviously made the effort to get the car looking tidy, chances are, they'll have taken the effort with the mechanical parts of the car too...

Only way around that is to modify it so heavily, (Meaning, the majority of the supporting crossmembers altered, which for a KE20 translates to most of the floorpan) that it can be registered as an ICV, or Individually Constructed Vehicle... and THAT is a "head intercourse"

Hey, it's just tall poppy syndrome at it's finest... We all wish we could play a hand in getting a motorsport complex built in our area, so of course we pick on some youngster who has actually done it. Maybe after Wagga, he can come to Perth with Skaife and get them to re-do our seven corner wonder that is Barbagallo? :'( I wanna new motorsport complex.

Cheers for that... I might just have to spend it on something else. haha He did get hold of me... Just waiting on details now. :P