So I've done a lot of research on the subject and I keep turning up finding dead threads which aren't very helpful. My guess is that it's the fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb. It seems that mine has been fiddled with so I was wondering if one of you guys could snap a picture of the solenoid on yours.

Also I checked if it was getting 12v, and it is, but if I unplug it while it's running or while it's not and let it run or turn it off and on it makes no difference. I'm told that the carb was rebuilt about two months ago, but he couldn't get it to tune.. I've been messing with it for the last week or so since I've had it and I'm just about to go nuts.. Anybody else had this problem AND FIGURED IT OUT? I don't have the cash for a Weber or anything like that right now either.

I'm told that the carb was rebuilt about two months ago, but he couldn't get it to tune.

 

Sounds like no idle circuit.

 

See if you can hear & feel the solenoid going 'click' when you turn the key on. If it is, then it is probably opening the idle circuit, and then the nest thing is dirt in a drilling or the idle jet.

 

Pull the carb apart and hose petrol through the idle circuit with a syringe, and make sure the idle jet is clean. They might have fked up the rebuild somehow and without the idle jet working the mixture screw won't work.

 

The solenoid shuts off the idle circuit, so it won't make any difference once its running on the main jet.

My car did this too. It wouldnt idle at a low RPM (below 1650). There are a few things I found on my car.

 

I ended up replacing all my intake gaskets. Start at the one under the carb, then the adapter plate, then possibly the intake gasket. Mine was cracked and brittle. if any of these gaskets give out then they let air into your motor since the least path of resistance is through the cracks instead of through the carb (bringing fuel).

*check for this before tearing into it by spraying carb cleaner around all your gaskets while your car is idleing.* -a high idle is ok. When the bad spot is found (with the spray) the motor will rev up for a second and then drop back down. After doing this to my car I found 2 major leaks.

 

Another thing that can affect this is your timing. Ensure your spark is set correctly. I reccomend finding the arrow on your balancer and putting a distinct mark on it so it can be easily seen. Mine was around 46degrees advanced when I purchased my car LOL! -no wonder it wouldnt idle.

 

I hope my past problems can help you in getting your car running like a toyota should.

I had a similar problem with my 3TC. The engine cutout when the revs dropped down to idle. Mainly after the engine had warmed up and on deceleration.

Changed the fuel cutoff solenoid with another one, and freshen up the distributor with new points, cap, condenser, rotor button etc. New spark plugs. Had bright spark but it still cutout.

Thought the carby was flooding so I changed it with a 32/36 Weber and it still cutout,

 

Then I had a look at the alternator belt and it was loose. So it would run OK for a while, but when the engine warmed up the belt stretched, so there wasn't enough tension to run the alternator, and the engine would cutout at low revs. Bursons gave me the wrong belt since I couldn't tension it anymore on the bracket.

 

Then I had a look at the alternator belt and it was loose. So it would run OK for a while, but when the engine warmed up the belt stretched, so there wasn't enough tension to run the alternator, and the engine would cutout at low revs. Bursons gave me the wrong belt since I couldn't tension it anymore on the bracket.

 

So it was just your alt belt then?