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Rear Diff Rebuild Or Swap?

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Hey, I'm kinda new to this corolla stuff. Just got an 81 corolla 1.8 and the rear end is making a bearing noise. So I'm looking to rebuild it but I can't seem to find a place where I can get parts. Hoping someone would direct me in the right direction. Also since I'm gonna rebuild it was thinking about installing an LSD and some gears any suggestions? I'd appreciate the help

Ideally tell us the chassis code (TE72?), engine code (3TC?) and transaxle code (T292?) which are found on the build plate probably on the firewall of your engine bay.

 

Have you ruled out a simple axle bearing rather than the actual differential centre?

  • Author

Iim in the US. t's a 3TC chassis code TE72 transaxle code? Don't know where that's located or how to check what diff I have.

  • Author

Look at the aluminium build plate on the firewall.

 

It's the critical piece of information to answer your question.

maybe this it says model C/TR/A/TM TE72L-EEHDCA 861 ZP01 S374 A40 then along with my vin and engine code

S374 is the diff code. This means 6.38 inch crownwheel, 3.6:1 ratio and non lsd. All s diffs are non lsd.

 

Basically means you have an S diff which is shit and means you can't do much with it.

 

Upgrade to a 6.7 inch T diff from an GTS ae86 or TE72GT and you can get lsd centres for it from TRD, Kaaz, tomei etc.

 

The upgraded diff will bolt in, make sure you take the handbrake cables and tailshaft too for a perfect bolt in. Plus you may end up with rear discs this way also.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

Just make absolutely sure your replacement complete rear assembly comes from the models mentioned above, otherwise you will likely have problems with mounting locations for trailing arms and overall width.

 

You will notice your diff centre is held in by 8 studs. A T series diff centre has 10 studs.

 

Not necessarily foolproof, but if you find an AE86 or TE72 locally and the centre is held in by 10 nuts, you are likely to be safe.

 

You will also need the tailshaft. You may still need to muck around with the front handbrake cable (the short one from the inside cab lever) but easy cheap fix. Especially if you remove the brake lever and front cable from the donor. If you get a disc brake rear, try and obtain the rear brake proportioning valve from the firewall.

 

Sound a lot of work, but a very common situation that many before you have pursued.

  • Author

S374 is the diff code. This means 6.38 inch crownwheel, 3.6:1 ratio and non lsd. All s diffs are non lsd.

 

Basically means you have an S diff which is shit and means you can't do much with it.

 

Upgrade to a 6.7 inch T diff from an GTS ae86 or TE72GT and you can get lsd centres for it from TRD, Kaaz, tomei etc.

 

The upgraded diff will bolt in, make sure you take the handbrake cables and tailshaft too for a perfect bolt in. Plus you may end up with rear discs this way also.

 

Does the diff it self have a tag or a code located on it to tell me if it is LSD and where it came from?

No it doesn't.

 

You can look at the same build plate on the firewall.

 

If it says T282 it is a 4.3 final drive without LSD. T283 is a 4.3 with LSD

 

If it says T292 it is a 4.1 final drive without LSD. T293 is a 41 with LSD

 

But of course, anything could have happened since it was built.

 

You can do the old spin one wheel and see what the other does routine. Realistically you buy a complete assembly as above and fit a newer aftermarket centre, or have the original rebuilt as it's likely done a few miles.

 

If you are looking at a centre out of the car, it is obvious whether it is an LSD or conventional centre. There will be others here who can advise re 1.5 ways, 2 ways etc

  • Author

No it doesn't.

 

You can look at the same build plate on the firewall.

 

If it says T282 it is a 4.3 final drive without LSD. T283 is a 4.3 with LSD

 

If it says T292 it is a 4.1 final drive without LSD. T293 is a 41 with LSD

 

But of course, anything could have happened since it was built.

 

You can do the old spin one wheel and see what the other does routine. Realistically you buy a complete assembly as above and fit a newer aftermarket centre, or have the original rebuilt as it's likely done a few miles.

 

If you are looking at a centre out of the car, it is obvious whether it is an LSD or conventional centre. There will be others here who can advise re 1.5 ways, 2 ways etc

 

Thanks for the help bro

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