This is the KE70's fusible link, usually found sitting in the most inaccessible place on this poorly designed 4K, right on the starter motor!

 

As you can see, it is actually three fusible links in one and immediately goes to a terminal that splits the power up over the car.

 

I lost the headlights, and after blaming the relays I'd fitted with the upgraded lights, finally found that the link had broken off the ring. That was one wire, the other two broke as I took the thing apart. The insulation is cracked from having the exhaust manifold just above it, and the wires are brittle.

 

You can see that one wire only does headlights (sidelights/tail-lights are on another), one wire does only the ignition coil in the 'run' position, and the big white wire does everything else. I have new fuses for the headlights on my new relay system, but that coil feed should be fused one way or another.

 

So, seeing the spares shop don't have them, what options has anyone found??

 

Cobble this back together? Might last a year or two...

 

Replace it all with one 30amp inline fuse? Blow one circuit and everything dies at once...

 

Do away with them completely and rely on the other fuses around the car? Just burn the half metre of wire to the relay/fuse box.

Get a modern fuseable link holder out of something. As they are just a big fuse it's a shit load easier to see if one is blown.

 

I bought some of these and wired them up till I get a proper mount out of something

 

www.mr2.com/forums/attachments/mk1-engine-talk-modifications-swaps/6771d1225477864-MR2-fusible-link-alternate-k798212217yfh.jpg

Edited February 27, 201313 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

In my opinion, or more so what I would do Is to make a whole new set up.

Get a brand spankin new eyelet and solder PTFE heavy gauge wire to it and splice it into 3 more PTFE wires which will then connect to new in line or spade type fuses on a terminal block.

This terminal block would then be placed in an area eassily reached.

 

PTFE wire is a teflon based outer sheath so the hot exhaust will not affect the wiring, thus no degradation. PTFE wiring is also usually much better quality as well giving less voltage drop per

metre. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene . The only bad thing is buying in the stuff, as it is expensive and usually not sold in small quantities.

 

Alternately you could wire it up with PVC and route it in a way to avoid damage from the elements.

Where did you mount them Reed?? The engine mount seems a likely place to take one fat wire from the starter +ve and split it through three fuses in a sealed box.

 

The "easily reached" part of it all is the trick! Actually, I might use battery cable to come forward from under the manifolds and mount something by the alty. That wire is not going to be fused, but neither is the main battery cable going to the starter anyway.

Don't make it too complciated!

 

why not just get some of those water proof single incline fuse holders.

 

Solder/crimp it in. wire tie it somewhere out of the way. Done!

Mine are just hanging off the battery for now. Was just a temporary fix to get me home without blowing another ecu.

This is the kind of mounting block I want to get, not my picture, my potato has better resolution than that.

 

Edited February 27, 201313 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

water proof single incline fuse holders.

 

What do they look like Dave? I was thinking of something like Reed's picture there, mounted on the engine mount.

 

Maybe an hour at the wreckers will turn up some ideas.

For my 30A I'm using one of these

 

 

My 60A is a block fusible link wired all dodgy.

 

 

Heres a pic you can just make them out

 

 

The block fuse I mounted to some teflon and taped it up :D hey it got me home.

Edited February 27, 201313 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

Well, the spares shop had several that were ordinary slide terminals on each side & a fuse in the middle, not quite what I wanted. Then seeing it rained all yesterday and was still raining this morning I gave the wrecker a miss and fixed these.

 

I soldered the three wires together and screwed them into one end of the junction, and crushed the steel ring to fit the other. Then I tossed it in the oven at 100deg with two layers of heatshrink. Its certainly stiffer, but I'll make sure I support the wire close to that joint.

I know I'm more than a little late to the party, but here's my input for all it's worth (I'm up to this step in my build right now).

 

http://swecheck.com.au has every fuse, block, PDM, enclosure you could imagine and are well worth a look. I'm currently running one of these for all fuses (yes, I've actually gone to the effort of rewiring every god forsaken fuse to this thing):

http://www.cooperind...elaymodule.html

and I will be using one of these for the fusible links:

http://www.cooperind...fuseholder.html

 

 

The 15400 holds 40 mini fuses & 10 micro relays, which accommodates a KE70 with about another 50% worth of expansion. The LMG comes in 2, 3, or 5 pole and holds megafuses which go up to silly amperage. I'm going for a 5-way because I will be running my sound system through it too, but if you were just looking for a clean & reliable way of upgrading the flimsy wire links, the 3-way would be perfect.

 

To make it work all you need to do is connect your battery +ve to the pole on the left of that top buss, and a ring terminal on each of the 3 wires going to their respective fusible link poles.

 

Also, the green wires are 40A and the yellow is 60A.

Edited June 30, 201412 yr by ATOYOTA