ATOYOTA

You don't need a W box to measure the shifter position. All you need is your engine mounted so you can measure from the block face to the shifter. If you're upgrading a gearbox that already fits, even better. You just get a tape and measure from the face of the bellhousing to the shifter on your old box.

Don't know about tunnel mods, but you're gonna have to source a bellhousing. I think Niteparts still do one. As for shifter position, don't sweat. Dellow Conversions do a couple of shifter housings at different lengths for the W5* trannies so you can pretty much pinpoint exactly where the shifter will sit. http://dellowconversions.com.au/product-category/transmission-accessories/

Yeah, like that, that's mega cool! I like how the air tank stores boost. I don't understand what that formula relates to.. A lot of supercharged setups don't use intercoolers because there are no hot exhaust gasses going through them. As for the parasitic losses, you'll find that with every blower. Sure, most conventional superchargers use scrolls and screws but I'm talking about air pumps, since when you boil it down we're talking about air pumps feeding air pumps. I'm still quite naive about boost so go easy on me. So say an engine produces 150psi of pressure and you have 14psi of boost running through it, does that make the pressures in the cylinder jump to 164psi?

I have this other idea too, if there's anyone left who's not too butthurt by having their views challenged... Have the right cylinder bank feeding air into the left cylinder bank. Swap the inlet/exhaust cams around on the right cylinder bank and time it to open up the inlet valve (now timed as an exhaust pulse) while the left cylinder is about to draw an inlet charge. Inlet gasses enter through the exhaust on the right and are pushed out the inlet into the next cylinder where combustion occurs. Since pistons 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, and 7/8 are all tied together at the same respective position on the crank, the left & right cylinder banks are only out by the angle of the V (in a 1UZ, piston 1 is 60deg behind piston 2). Right is doing an exhaust stroke right before Left draws an inlet charge. The bores on the right bank would be bigger than the left and compression would be raised on the left bank so that the larger mass of air would compress into the smaller cylinders on the left. I'd also imagine the timing on the right would have to be retarded enough for there to be a bit of overlap between the two. Whaddaya reckon? Just another pointless dream?

How good is the bread trick! Popped mine out like it was held in by gravity.

My engine is only wee, at a mere 1504cc (I think?) and it has made power up to about 9 grand. Well, right now it doesn't, because it has a blown ring. I get into this kind of debate/argument/dick measuring contest a lot with the boost guys, and we never come to a reasonable understanding. They're all into drifting and I'm into racing. They think a driver is only as good as his car, I think a good enough driver could beat them in a race on a bicycle. The argument ensues, people get offended, and personal shit starts getting involved. We stop talking and there's a lot of tension the next time I see them. I like drifting, I think it's a well established competitive motorsport and with good reason. I'm not into any of that, I just wanna go fast, and I'm not just talking down the straights. I look at a race car as a tool, like a knife to a chef or pencil to an artist. Everyone has their own preferred setups to get the most out of what they're trying to achieve, and I have mine. I prefer an engine that responds quickly to driver input (I'm talking about fractions of a second here) so that I can accurately feed in power at just the right time. That's my preference and I'm entitled to it. If your kind of setup is big 6 pots with turbos, ok, that's cool, but there's no way in hell we'd ever be found in the same race together. Different classes. Let's just leave this where it is. I don't need this thread being hijacked again by any more fanboys like him.

Just get the fvck off my thread if you're not going to post anything constructive.

That wasn't directed at you. I swear, come of these cvnts think this is Facebook, where you can get away with bagging out other people's cars.

Why do people get all high and mighty on the internet? I don't care how big your dick is MATE, I'm just asking some questions, trying to get a broader understanding on the topic. If your only input is "go out and drive one" then maybe it's time to get off this FORUM. This is why the car community suffers... When I refer to the term "lag" I don't mean the time it takes to reach usable boost, I'm more referring to boost threshold. I've driven or been a passenger in a few turbo'd cars, and the thing that gets me about them is the J curve when it spools up. For me, an engine's torque curve has to be fairly linear in order for it to be useful. If driver input spins a turbine which in turn feeds the engine power, then for me, there's way too many obstructions in the intake tract affecting flow and I would consider it a laggy setup. For example, when hitting the apex of a corner, right as you let off the brakes and feed in the throttle it has to be responsive, otherwise you lose that edge. In my eyes anyway.

I guess I'm pretty biased against turbos because every setup I've ever seen/driven was laggy as hell because the owners just couldn't resist that massive top end rush. The picture was just to illustrate my thoughts. In reality I know there would have to be some crazy gearing to get it to spin fast enough off the crank. When does a good setup come onto full boost? I don't mean when it starts to spool, I mean when the wastegate opens up. To me, any time the wastegate is shut means wasted potential. Are there any setups that store wasted boost and feed it back into the turbine? Again, just a thought, but what if there was some sort of way to plumb a BOV back into the plenum so it's always pressurised? I'm an NA guy, so I'm all about that throttle response, 'bout that throttle response, no waiting...

It does sound complicated when you start adding bypass valves and such. My idea is just as compact as a conventional turbo setup so I guess it might be better suited to big engines in little engine bays. Nice DP...

The idea was more for large turbos that need a lot more pressure to spool up. Sure, you can run anti-lag timing but that limits the life of the turbo. My idea was kinda like a substitute for anti-lag.

I've seen a couple of examples on the interwebs of electric superchargers, which I like the idea of. Full-time boost before you even touch the throttle, or have it set up to engage at any throttle position. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/0406tur-knight-turbo-electric-supercharger/ This guy has invented a twin screw with three motors powering it! You would need a bigger alternator for this though, which kinda defeats the purpose of running a non-parasitic compressor.

That's just how they reduce the gearing for a centrifugal. Like how the impeller in a turbo needs much higher RPM to generate boost. What I'm talking about is a turbo with a pulley AND rear housing, so that the pulley takes up the slack at low RPM. Kinda like twin charging.

It would be down to pulley size, like a supercharger. The pulley would have to be about an inch across because turbos spin much faster than superchargers. Is that one of those jet turbine things or does that shaft go to a remote pulley?

I've had this idea in my head for a while now. It's a simple concept: take a turbocharger and attach a clutch pulley to the input shaft which is driven off the crank. The idea is to spin the turbine when the exhaust pressure is low, then when enough pressure builds up, the clutch disengages and the exhaust gasses spin the turbine. Kind of like a centrifugal supercharger with a rear housing. Would this kind of concept work, or am I just dreaming? It would be more compact than any other compound setup and more simple too. I know it's not a good idea to put any side loading on the shaft, so maybe it could have some sort of bracket to brace the pulley, or something. Thoughts, anyone?

I'm using one of these in my KE70: http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10542&PSO=245&PSID=606201891S&PSV=Primary&CDO= Very strong, good quality wheel used for competition racing. I push my car around with it & it's solid as a rock. Nardi is pretentious IMO.

If you properly balance the crank, you should be able to do away with the cracked block myth. I don't know if the 3K rods would work as far as keeping the compression ratio goes, sounds like a lot of decking.

Mine has handled ~9000rpm, but it has a twin cam head :P and also does not run now :(

The bore/stroke I read up were as follows: 3K: 75.0mm X 66.0mm 4K: 75.0mm X 73.0mm 5K: 80.5mm X 73.0mm So a 5K with a 3K crank should in theory make it 80.5mm bore X 66.0mm stroke, which is crazy over square.

Has anyone ever put a 3K crank in a bigger bore motor such as a 4K or 5K? I know the valvetrain doesn't really allow these engines to handle high revs, but having a higher bore/stroke ratio sure would improve the responsiveness. It'd be a pretty cheap mod if everything bolted together. Are the cranks actually interchangeable? Which rods are longer than others to bump the compression ratio? Are all the pulleys/flywheels interchangeable too? What would need doing aside from the bottom end swapping?

Haven't been on much lately myself.. Yeah, a bike tach was actually something I had in mind too, considering how quick & high they rev (my engine goes to about 10 grand so that limits auto gauges a bit). Cheers for all the suggestions guys.

I know I'm more than a little late to the party, but here's my input for all it's worth (I'm up to this step in my build right now). http://swecheck.com.au has every fuse, block, PDM, enclosure you could imagine and are well worth a look. I'm currently running one of these for all fuses (yes, I've actually gone to the effort of rewiring every god forsaken fuse to this thing): http://www.cooperind...elaymodule.html and I will be using one of these for the fusible links: http://www.cooperind...fuseholder.html The 15400 holds 40 mini fuses & 10 micro relays, which accommodates a KE70 with about another 50% worth of expansion. The LMG comes in 2, 3, or 5 pole and holds megafuses which go up to silly amperage. I'm going for a 5-way because I will be running my sound system through it too, but if you were just looking for a clean & reliable way of upgrading the flimsy wire links, the 3-way would be perfect. To make it work all you need to do is connect your battery +ve to the pole on the left of that top buss, and a ring terminal on each of the 3 wires going to their respective fusible link poles. Also, the green wires are 40A and the yellow is 60A.

I'm really just trying to find one with a needle that can keep up.

A 4A-GE is probably the most well balanced engine for a KE70. Not scary fast like any turbo'd thing.