ATOYOTA

Either that or skull drag.

Try one of Toyota's R engines. 18R/22R seem pretty popular, although overshadowed by the likes of SR's and 4A's.

That awesome looking red thing is a Toyota Sports 800, or UP15. Had to scroll through a list of every 60's car Toyota made to find it. It's insanely awesome, and I want one.

Does the pope shit in the woods?

Sorry about the late reply, been spending some late nights on the wiring but I'm starting to see daylight. Cutting springs is never a good idea in my eyes; they have a particular rate and chopping only messes that up. Preloading is one other thing though. I'm not worried about the pump or filter being up to the pressure, it's the fact that ALL the oil is fed via hoses and when there's about 10 of them that's a lot of hose ends to keep an eye on. Even IF the hoses are rated for 570PSI. I mucked up the timing and retarded the exhaust cam by one tooth right before attempting to start it but I don't see how such a short period of dry cranking could have blown a gasket. Oxy sensor's been a big priority ever since I did the swap. It's not so much a tuning thing; it's mainly for monitoring. Fact of the matter is, when it starts misbehaving and I'm away from the shed, a gauge on my dash is far more practical than pulling over to the side of the road and whipping out spark plugs and reading them by torch light. I could try tweaking it to a somewhat drivable state but the blow has got me spooked. Besides, this isn't an asian 4K carb we're talking about. These are BST38SS CV's, and there's 4 of them! I've gotta dick around with main jets, pilot screws, idle screws, air screws, jet needles... As for a tune, there's this bloke around the corner from my work whose main line of work is carbies. He's pretty old school and doesn't use dynos. Distributor's an electronic 4K modified for the 4A-GE head. Apart from that balls up with the one tooth on the pulley, I haven't so much as nudged the timing whatsoever since procuring the engine from Phil. It's been some months since I had the thing running properly but from memory it used to start out at 80 and drop to 60 (full noise, fully warmed up), but now it only drops to about 70 under the same circumstances. It's blown between 1 & 2 before, which is a common area in these engines, being that the bores are closer together on 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 than 2 & 3. Dunno why the front blows more often than the rear. I'm yet to run another comp. test but when I do I'll give you the readings before I take the head off.

I doubt it would be valves due to the short period it was on the road after Phil cleaned all the carbon build-up off them last time. I'll run another compression test, this time wet and we'll see if it's something in the cylinder itself. 80PSI is a bit too high from my understanding so I think that will have to change if I have any hope of containing these oil leaks. I've also had a quick gander on Innovate's website and came across this: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php I'm not after fancy expensive gadgetry that can be hooked up to a laptop or give you eleven different user modes, and a hand controller is WAY over the top for me. I just need something very basic, but somewhat accurate, to help me keep an eye on the danger levels.

I know about spark plug reading, but simply getting an idea about it from the internet and then trying it for real only spells disaster. The pump has already been shimmed, so I gather if I just grind a bit off the washer/shim under the relief valve that'll drop it a bit? Seems like an awful amount of work just to take the oil pump out :S And in answer to your questions: No it's never seen a dyno, I've pulled the head off a couple of times now and the first time Phil skimmed it for me because it'd slightly warped, and lastly, the first blow was between 1 & 2 whereas now #3 is down on compression and I *think* it's between 3 & 4. What do you mean when you ask what timing settings I have?

Phil recommended an Innovate sensor too; I'll probably get one of those. I've switched to bigger main jets and raised the jet needle position to the highest, then spaced them out with a washer to get a little more height. The problem is that I've gone from 70mm velocity stacks to individual pod filters, so the carbies breathe a lot differently now. I can't really tell if it's either really lean or really rich but it seemed to splutter a lot soooo rich maybe? Either way I'm not keen on running it for long. The plan is to replace the gasket, start it up to make sure it's running, then just trailer it to the carby tuners. I just hope I've fixed the oil leaks once and for all. That's the problem when you combine high oil pressure with external oil feeds. WHICH REMINDS ME: How can I drop the oil pressure a little? I'm running HPR 10W-40 fully syn. and it peaks at ~80PSI at full noise. I've never shimmed an oil pump before so I don't know how to adjust it.

Yeah, it has occurred to me that a stronger head gasket might push the problem further down the line, but it just seeme that I'm going through them far to quickly. An O2 sensor is in order and has been on the list for some months now but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Could a lean mix be the cause of pre-detonation? I think it's the needle taper that's making it lean out at higher throttle positions but I'm not game enough to try altezzaclub's method of sanding them down. Not on four of the bastards anyway. I got fresh head bolts last time and cleaned all the threads with carby cleaner, then used a dab of engine oil to lube them up before torquing. And yes, I snatched up the twinky. Just couldn't let something so incredibly awesome get away. Cheers for the help guys, much appreciated. I still don't know how Phil puts up with all my annoying questions. I can just imagine him sitting at home minding his own business when *DING MESSAGE FROM RI-* "I swear to god if it's that Riley kid again I'm jumping out the window".

I'm really curious, what sort of head gaskets are people putting on their worked up 5K's out there? Reason being that I keep blowing the crappy graphite ones with my above average compression and I need something much stronger. Are there any copper or 2/3 piece metal ones I can get WITHOUT having to go custom made? What are your recommendations for something strong that can handle a lot of revs?

AE51? I thought the A series engines superseded the *E3*/*E5* Corollas.

In QLD it's something like 3.8L N/A (Buick V6, in other words :no2:), which is 200cc shy of the coveted 1UZ-FE that everyone seems to want. There's some little Rover V8 you can register a KE70 with, but really, who'd be dumb enough to put a *shit*ish engine in? Biggest forced induction is 2.1L from memory, basically restricting you to the likes of SR20DET and 3S-GTE, or RB20DET's. What is it with people and this idea that cubic centimetres = power? If the engine's a hunk of shit it's still gonna get chopped by 1600's and 2 litres' with a far better engine design.

I'd recommend heat wrapping as it draws a lot of the heat away from the bay. More so with a 4K I'd say, considering that the carbies are directly above the exhaust manifold, which can evaporate the fuel in the bowls. Not to mention, it looks boss.

In QLD, you can have any mod plate except those pertaining to engine modifications. Coils, box, brakes, would all be legal. They have the engine mod law so P platers don't do exactly what I've done, and hop into something with off its tits engine mods.

Twin supercharge something. That's what I'd do.

Can I have mine changed to ATOYOTA I've always liked that palindrome...

Just saw this on Ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-81-TO-84-KE70-71-AE70-71-IGNITION-BARREL-DOORS-LOCKS-BOOT-LOCK-/290755704428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b263f66c

Like I said, get a hold of someone over here and grab the barrels from their doors/ignition and they'll be the same profile as those Ebay ones that fit your boot/fuel door. Once you get them, take your brass key and the new locks to your lockie and he'll key them up for you.

You'd be right. The blank you're looking for is a Silca TR33, either search "KE70 key" and get the Toyota badged ones off Ebay or go to your locksmith and they'll have them.

Your cars are all left hand drive, are they? If so, you might run into troubles trying to fit a RHD ignition barrel into LHD because of the position and direction they turn, even if you pull the guts out and transplant them. I've never pulled the ignition barrel apart so can't be too sure, but I know that you can get both door locks from either LHD or RHD countries and they'll fit. Try America for the ignition maybe.

How do you define revving of engines? Like, say, if I was to give it a few thousand revs upon takeoff?

Track down another set of door/ignition locks that match the same key profile as the brass key. Then go to an automotive locksmith with the key/barrels and get them to rekey them for you. You're better off keeping that brass key over the plastic head because it's a far more common profile and thus easier to find.

I haven't fitted it so can't be too sure, but I'm pretty sure the sway bars, spring perches, shock mounts, and all 5 links line up. I bought it from the wreckers and they gassed it off so all the soft brake lines have been cut. Sways/mounts and hard lines are still intact though. Toyota is pretty universal in their designing so I wouldn't be surprised at all if the K lines were the same size.

I think you'll find yourself needing a shorter tail shaft, as from what I've read T boxes are slightly longer than K. T18 diffs are about 20mm longer than the KE70's borgy, so if you can get the T18 diff, tail shaft, box, and engine you may have a different story. I've got a T18 diff laying around that I'm thinking of getting rid of.

I think this is a sign that you should keep the Corolla and enjoy it for yourself. She's bought a Commonwhore, all hope is lost now.