ATOYOTA

Performance Wholesale in Underwood helped me out with my weird engine, they know their shit. Grab a set of verniers and call them up with the following measurements: Depth of thread in block How far down past the deck the threads start Thickness of head gasket Thickness of head How much clearance is above the top of the bolt (rockers, distributor nose etc.) And of course the thread pitch They have a wide range of ARP studs/bolts and have all the measurements on file. They do shipping too.

Haha, kinda cute video. That slanty looks preeeetty nice too.

What do you mean by that? Like bump stops?

*ahem*

"Not all the cars at the World Time Attack Challenge are built to go fast round corners" right beneath the line of corollas

Just stick one of these onto your keyring :P

Surely there's SOME electrosexuals on here who can help me...

Dayboro Butcher does absolutely amazing sweet chilli chicken wings. I used to voyage all the way up there from Brissy just for them. If you're having a cruise up anywhere near there with the word 'barbeque' involved you simply must try their stuff.

Doesn't have tappets, it's DOHC. I did ʞ©$ɟ up the timing when attempting to start it though, one tooth out on the exhaust pulley. Pistons don't have any marks on them, so let's hope I didn't bend any valves? There's bugger all gap between the valves & piston crowns so I'm really not sure. Kero test showed the valves aren't leaking so that can be ruled out. #1, #2, and #4 were all very consistent through the compression test, so I doubt it's blown anything between cylinders. This includes cracks in the block, which I've also had a look for. Wet compression test would have shown at least SOME variation if it was the rings, so it can't be that. There is just one thing left that may have been a cause.. The stud bores have been elongated in the head to match with the block and as a result it's just never quite fitted properly. Head bolts have always bound up for a fraction of a turn and aligning things up is very painful. It's a possibility that I got the wrong torque readings and lead to a blow that way. I spoke to an engineer about plugging up the bores in the block and redrilling/tapping but he said it would be a major job and difficult to get right. I reckon what I'll do is take the head into this bloke and get them to elongate the stud holes a little more to allow for smoother torquing. It would probably be pretty tricky to get the milling bit in between the valves to recess the washer but we'll see how it goes. I'm sick of grinding 3/4 of the circumference of the washers to size.

This is why they had to ban things:

Or maybe some sort of mechanical device with like a piece of metal that you stick in it, and when you turn it the car starts. But like only your piece of metal works it. I know it sounds weird but I think I'm onto something here.

Hmmmmmm I like this idea muchly. Could hide the mag switch anywhere behind a plastic panel and just swipe it with the magnet that you keep on your key fob. Kinda like a poor man's transponder.

What if you needed to use the word specifically? Like "stayed at a hotel and they left a overrated on my pillow" or "I brush my teeth with overrated toothpaste" EDIT: I just came up with the best idea! Replace f u c k/f u c k i n g/f u c k e r with love/loving/lover etc. and c u n t with darling. I can just imagine it now.... "You're a motherloving darling!" or "the clutch on a boxer is an absolute darling to get to" or even "that darling is overrated as love"

Any updates??

So I've read up a little on the basics of electronic circuits and I think I'm onto something. The sender sends a variable current depending what temperature it sits at. That then goes through the dial which can adjust how much of that variable current comes out the other end. Then what I was trying to do is find a way of building up enough current to trigger the transistor into dumping the current once it reaches a certain point (12V for example, but I doubt the sender alone would have that much flowing through it); I didn't want the dial to just trickle current straight to the fan. The resistor is so that the transistor isn't just bypassed completely (again, unsure of the level of resistance required). Finally, the current (12V, 2V, whatever the nominated voltage) is sent to the ignition point on the fan relay. How's that sound?? Is there something I'm missing, like an amplifier or something to bring the current up to a usable level?

Same goes for swearing. Frankly, I like to swear my ʇ~~ɔ hairs off but the mods are looking out for the children. A few of my favourite PG versions are cvnt, fvck, and phuck. Shit and arse are fine though. Basically, the very last thing they want is for RC to turn into BC. That'd be the day I stop using it anyway.

How does the standard sender work anyway? Is the needle on the temp. gauge dictated by current flow or something? It might be possible to wire up a relay and dial to the existing hardware. EDIT: Just read up on temperature senders. They basically act like a resistor: the higher the temperature, the less resistance and more current flow; thus raising the needle on the gauge. I think I can nut this out and figure out a way of hooking up a relay.

Hmmmmm I went and put them around the other way and both sizes were still far too long. There's nothing really standard about Frederick's monster, so the only comparison I had was the bolts that were in there, and they're all the same size. Surely there's no difference in head thickness between big and smallport? It's only had the head shaven a couple of mm. The short ones had 30mm of stud sticking up out of the head, and the long ones had a whopping 50mm sticking up. The threads themselves are only about 20-25mm so it's safe to say these studs are fvcking useless.

That's the impression I was given, each bank of studs in uniform length. Every manual I try and download is either uttlerly useless or riddled with fvcking viruses. The only assumption I have is to put the shorter ones on the exhaust side, because ARP studs supposedly interfere with the snout on the distributor on 4A-GE's. Pretty shit when you think about it, considering these studs cost me $300.

I've just received my ARP head studs (10 in total) and there's 2 different lengths, 5 of each. My question is, which ones go where? It's going on the twin cam 4K but most of the parts are interchangable with 4A-GE.

Ran a wet com. test today and it read the same. #1, #2, & #4 @~150PSI and #3 @ ~60PSI. Took the head off and the gasket doesn't seem blown, as such. But it's a little burred on the side of #3, but not fully blown :S I've got the head upside down with kero sitting in the combustion chambers and although the valves are as black as the name Shaniqua, none of them seem to be leaking due to carbon deposit. What the hell else could be the cause of a compression drop in #3?? If the wet/dry compression tests brought the same results that points away from rings, the gasket isn't really blown (not enough to cause such a drop, anyway), and the valves don't appear to be leaking. And if the head was warped it would have blown a gasket.

Yeah, that's pretty much bang on what I'm after. That's if it can be wired up to an existing sender.

Yeah I edited that one, please REED it again.

I want the fans to kick in after a certain temperature so it doesn't have the tendency to run too cool like it does now. Right now it's just hooked up to a relay that switches it on with ignition, socit's kinda like having the old mechanical fan attached. Basically I'm after a hardwired version of the Davies Craig kit but utilising the existing temp. sender to reduce clutter and so there's less individual things to go wrong. This sounds pretty much like what I'm after. Don't supose you've got a link to that thread? EDIT: Scratch that, wrote the post at work today and only just posted it now.

I've got an electric fan on my KE70 and I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a dial to adjust what temperature the fans kick in, but I don't want to go thermostat. I've got one of those Davie's Craig thermo switches with the probe you stick in the top hose but that's a leaky prick and I don't like the thought of a bit of metal bending off and getting stuck in my water pump. SO. My question is this: is there a wiring diagram I can follow to perform such a procedure?