ATOYOTA

He meant m i n t. People were abusing the word so the forum nannies felt the need to substitute it for overrated.

There lies the problem. They're so delusional they don't think it will happen to them. I've got one mate who was doing 160km on the motorway with a bunch of mates in the car (before the red P plate curfew for passengers was introduced. That law's saved countless lives, and I applaud the government for it), and when a street sweeper entered his lane he didn't have nearly as much stopping distance as he would have at 100km, and as a result he wrote his car off and nearly killed himself and three passengers. The next car he got was a KEsev and not only did he still get up to the same speeds, he got into sliding too. The next car, a 180 with an SR20DET which some moron at DOT approved his exemption for. Still doing the same shit, speeeding and sliding, but now he had more POWER. Now he's got an S13 with an RB20DET and I'm scared he's gonna kill himself. I've pleaded with these guys, and at one point threatened them too but they just don't listen. Every time they fvck up and hit something, it's ALWAYS someone else's fault but theirs. He blamed the street sweeper for pulling out in front of him, and my other mate who hopped an island on an overpass into oncoming traffic, he blamed the guy he hit who was just minding his own business. The guy who crashed his Supra, he blamed road conditions, claiming there was grease on the tarmac (yeah, absolutely NOTHING to do with going 80 around a corner rated at 40, fvckwit). A week later that same guy was caught excessively speeding, and he tried pinning the blame on his mate, for the reason that their heads are a similar size. Crushing cars won't work, because I've seen first hand what happens when they destroy it themselves. They just go out there, get another, even more powerful machine, and do the same shit over and over again. I've tried everything, and the sad conclusion I keep arriving at is... maybe if one of them killed themselves or someone else, in a situation that not even they can shift blame for, then these guys might start to see what they're doing. But that still might not work.

I think the laws are WAY over the top, and aren't really addressing the issue in the slightest. What, you think big Kevo is going to cry that you crushed his VN? No, he's just gonna find another shitter to do the same damn thing in. The only thing that's going to come from crushing cars is frustrated and victimised enthusiasts, too scared to take their pride and joy out for a simple drive without the fear of having it taken away. I've been to skids before, just to watch, but as soon as the alert was risen I bolted just like all the hoons there. Not because I was guilty, but because I didn't want to be lumped in their category when all I was doing was spectating. My group of mates are all in one way or another into cars, and I think I can safely speak for the younger demographic when I say that it's a bad idea to do dumb shit on a road. In a little over a year of knowing these blokes, two have written off their cars (one of them a VERY nice Supra) and nearly killed themselves and passengers. All because they thought it'd be awesome to take that corner at 120 clicks, or rip the handbrake and do mad skids. It's a rarity for us to all go for a drive without at least one of them doing something dangerous. I'm not so much concerned with the annoyances as I am with the safety. These guys are hopping into high powered boosted cars and thinking they'll be sweet because it's not gonna happen to them. As for the modification law, that's just complete horse semen. Hooning is a behaviour, not an object. These new laws are pretty much pointed directly at my friends. Building the dodgiest cars in the southern hemisphere and trying to be Ken Block on a road. My two cents.. don't take their cars, they'll just buy more. Don't suspend licenses either, that won't work. I've taken a defensive driving course before and all I can remember from it was how to hold it through a corner when you're losing grip, so that's probably only going to fill their little brains with false courage in taking on new challenges. In fact, there's sweet fvck all you can do to stop this kind of behaviour. These guys get their licenses suspended for 12 months, and the first thing they do when it comes back is pop that long awaited skid again. Then they slide into something, destroy their car, and a week later you see them repeating the same damn dumb shit in a new car. What needs to be done is better education and a smack upside the head. I know the attitude because I've gotta listen to these muppets all the time. The reason they do this shit is because they feel they're skilled enough to do so, treating the road like it's their own personal video game and living in bubble world where no one else matters and everyone is impressed by your piss-stained piece of shit and its ability to break traction. What needs to be done is for the government to come up with some form of training program that reminds you that you're not indestructible, and the shit you think is harmless fun can actually end with dangerous outcomes.

Good god that's sexy! Nice work man! Keep us posted on the progress.

Hi and welcome to the forums. That's a mean ride you've got there What are you looking at doing to it? 'Mods' can range from interior work and paint, to suspension, to full blown engine conversions. One of the easiest and most noticable modifications I did was change the steering wheel. All you need is a boss kit and your choice of ADR approved steering wheel. I went for the dishy drift type, but the choice is yours and the options are endless. You can pick up a boss kit & wheel for under a hundred bucks if you do a bit of research and Ebaying. There's plenty of things you can do to visually mod it as well, such as cleaning up and painting the interior plastics, installing venetians/louvres, or putting a front spoiler on it. Personally, I think it looks tough as nails already and it's already pretty modified looking.

Well I'd possibly be in on it the weekend after the 15th, but that's just me. I keep missing cruises/meets because the 4K keeps sprouting new problems, and I'm dying to go for another run.

I'm on 4 points and I risk it errday. The secret is good arguing skills and the ability to spot flaws in other people.

It struggled to even get to the higher RPM, but when it got to 4000 it still leaned out. I reckon it's the needles. It seems like what I need is a steeper taper, right near the tip, so at open throttle there's more fuel flowing though without affecting the other throttle openings. So yeah, bit of wet & dry would probably do the trick. Thing is, I'm not game enough to try sanding them, let alone trying to get 4 of them identical. Could irreversably cock it up. How can I tell which jet needles I have, and which ones I'll need? CV needle slides are vacuum operated. The more air that passes through, the higher it lifts the needle. There's no oil involved. That's probably why they're so responsive.

Ok, so I've had a bit of a play around with the main jets and needle heights and now I've hit a wall. I changed to the biggest jets you gave me (the overdrilled ones) and then it ran more or less stoich on 1/4 throttle, but completely bogged again when I went to full or even half throttle. I raised the needles up the last notch and then spaced them a bit further with a washer, and now it goes through the rev range fine on 1/2 throttle but again goes lean at full. If I open the throttle up from 2000rpm and let the revs climb up it starts off sounding a bit lean, then at 3000rpm it gets a bit leaner again, then by the time I hit 4000rpm it's like hitting the brakes. I've tried lifting the needles with one more washer but then it stutters and misfires due to a rich mix. The idle circuit seems fine. Could the main jets still be too small, or is it the wrong set of needles? And would it be an idea to drill them out bigger or buy a tray of jets/needles?

Damnit! Every time there's a cruise I get my car back on the road like a week later and miss it!

WGMG: Something I like to call 'there's a kit for that'. When people have no idea about cars they think every modification can be bought in kit form. Also, people with very little knowledge on a topic trying to school you when you know 10X as much as them. The other day, my workmate was trying to tell me that his AE9X had a 1.5L 4A-GE, and his justification was "that's what the 1.5 badge said so that's what it had". He also thinks everything can be bought in kits.

I can tell the difference by eye. There's three different sizes in that bag. Carbies had 160's in them, and I swapped those for the overdrilled ones. I haven't started it up yet because it was absolutely pissing down outside and my battery has died in the arse. I figured out how to get at the needle to adjust it, but where is the idle mixture screw? Is it one of the screws in the actual throat of the intake, or the vertical one right at the front, on the bottom?

Oh yeah, I forgot about those spares you gave me. I've laid them all out into their 3 size groups. I'll pull the main jets out and see how big they are in comparison, and probably go for the overdrilled ones. Those carbies look like slide type. Mine are butterfly valves. http://www.dudeworld.com.au/ARTICVCARB.HTML The first one here looks close to mine. That article on tuning is pretty helpful. Very easy to understand. I gather I need to take the bowl off to get at the jets, that should be pretty straight forward. What about slow jets? Do these have them too, and do they need to be upsized/drilled out? How do I get to the needle/slide so I can adjust the heights?

Well, I guess you could still drop by and have a look at it, but it won't be running due to the battery having shat itself, and I won't be around because I'll be at work. I'd like to get some full slide carbs one day to replace these, but from what my dad tells me (he's into bikes) they're basically like a button. It's either fully open for straights, fully shut for braking, or slightly feathered through corners. Can't imagine what that paired with a button clutch would be like on a hillstart. LUURRRCH.

I've spoken to several carby guys, including one who was so switched on about bike carbs (one of dad's mates) he could tell me exactly what was going on before I even started up the engine. He says Mikuni CV's are high maintenance, and that one of the jets goes a bit oval-shaped every 5000km and needs replacing :/. I'm still sticking with them, but if they're too hard to keep in some sort of usable, reliable form I'm just gonna sell them and buy a set of flat slides. A wide band O2 sensor is in order, but I just can't afford the money/time right now to get one. It's #1 on the list as soon as I get the fuel system sorted and the engine running sweet. Phil recommends an Innovate LM1 wide band sensor for this engine, but that may as well be hieroglyphs to me because I've never dealt with them before. All the same, I pick up on this sort of thing pretty quickly so I'm sure I'll learn it. I'd love to have a chat and a show & tell if you're around. Will you still be in the area after/around 6pm next week? It'd be good to meet & greet with one of the elders of Rollaclub.

I've called the bloke who runs that shop and he told me he uses vacuum gauges as opposed to a dyno. I have no doubt in the world that he knows his shit, seeing as carbies are his business, but the thing I'm dubious about is how well it'll go under load post-tune. I might end up trying him anyway. His work is reasonably priced and he does know everything under the sun about carbies. Plus it doesn't hurt that he's literally around the corner from my work. I know the basics about carburetors, like how the venturi, jets, float and throttle plate work together, and I am eager to learn more about them, but to attempt this with as little knowledge as mine would be like learning to swim when your ship capsizes. I mean, there's four of the damn things! What I should have done was get my hands on a set of twin side draughts for the old 4K and tinker with them but then the twin cam came along. The car runs... just, and only when I choke the filters a bit with these socks I've got. I should be able to limp it up there at 1/4 throttle without burning anything out. Idle mix is still just a tad lean, but it's fine in the meantime.

Hi all, I'm in need of a carby tune on a dyno. The carburetors are Mikuni CV ITB's (off a GSX1100R I believe) and they're strapped to Phil's twin cam 4K. They're currently running very lean due to changing the air filtration system and it looks like it's gonna need a whole new set of jets/needles to be selected. I need to know two things: Is there someone around Brisbane who is capable of getting these just right, and what am I expecting to pay? I've been told it's not gonna be cheap, but I'd really like to know how much roughly it will cost. Thanks!

From the Ebay page.

Man I'd like to see this thing in the flesh once it's up and running. Are you or Emma involved in the odd cruise?

I think the best option based on your criteria would be a 7K. They have a longer stroke than the 4K so they're more torquey. With that comes lower engine revs so smoother ride and low fuel consumption. They come with injectors, and have been in production up until only a few years ago. They're cheap and reliable too. Pretty much the only drawback is that they're van engines so Toyota never designed them with racing in mind, and they don't like revs as much as 4K's.

Newish engines include 20 valve 4A-GE's, 3S-GE's, 5E's, and 2ZZ-GE's from Toyota's range. Can't really speak for Neesans or anything else because I only own a Toyota. There's a fuel injected variant for 4K's, 5K's and 7K's, or you can source your own injectors and fabricate up your own inlet manifold etc. to make them fit. Most engines younger than 20 years will be injected so you won't really have that problem if you swap. If you want fuel economy keep the 4K! But again, pretty much any fuel injected engine is pretty economical. The bigger the engine, the more fuel it burns. Injectors are far more efficient than carburetors because they use just the right amount of fuel in timed squirts, as opposed to the carb's venturi which just sucks it up out of a bowl. The ease and price depends on your skill level, knowledge base, and equipment/materials you have at your disposal. The easiest engine conversion for a KE70 is another K motor (5K or 7K) because they share the same engine mounts, and also because they all have a cable clutch so there's no need to modify pedal boxes. But really the only main difference between the three is cubic inches (4K - 1300cc, 5K - 1500cc, 7K - 1800cc). Personally, if I was looking at an 'upgrade' I'd avoid a K because they're still 8 valve pushrods, made entirely from cast, and the heads are all counterflow (there's a reason why they call them boat anchors). The next easiest swap is a 4A-GE because it's the most common and there is a plethora of conversion parts available, and there's even a member on here (Jordanrolla) who makes engine mounts and pedal boxes in kit form with templates and everything so all you have to do is drill a few holes and whack it in. I can't remember what he charges for mounts & boxes, but I can't see them lapping over the several hundred line. Anything with fuel injection is going to have plenty of wires for you to trip over, so you'll need know-how and patience to be able to wire up harnesses and whatnot. This is where carburetors win on simplicity because they're all mechanical and once they're tuned up to the engine you don't have to touch them again unless something shits itself. I don't know a lot about fuel injection because I'm a carby man, so this is about the limits of my injector-based knowledge. 4A-GE's are fairly smooth in their stock form, and if you modify the crap outta them it can be like a wookie rimming you with a rasp. 3S-GE's are also pretty smooth from what I'm told. Again, most modern fuel injected engines are shitloads smoother than a rattly old 4K. A big enough exhaust can silence a jet engine. quietness goes hand-in-hand with smoothness. 4K's I'd say are as reliable as it gets. Toyotas in general are renowned for this quality so a great deal of their engines are pretty bulletproof. As long as you keep the fluids all fresh and topped up and you don't flog it, any stock engine will see you through without any hassles. It's the modified ones that you've gotta keep an eye on. Take it from me, no one has a more heavily modified 4K than mine, and at current I can't trust it to get me out of town and back. Look up engines you're thinking about and ask people who own them or have done similar conversions about theirs. I can't give you a definitive 'this or that', it's your job to pick, but I hope this info will help you through the decision making process.

Yeah sorry I completely forgot about updating this. I went for the easiest option which is as mentioned the AE86 route. I can't speak for any other struts but my setup completely transformed the ride. '86 compatable rears would be the go, mine have adjustable length spring seats & strut tubes. I wound them both down to their lowest and it was pretty damn low. They can also be adjusted to about half an inch shy of standard height. As with the front, it was a little bit more involved. I was very lucky to find a set of struts with all auxillaries still attached, because I ended up using all of them. What you'll need, if you decide to get aftermarket AE86 gear, is the steering arms (bolted to the bottom of the strut), caliper brackets (they also have a shroud which covers the inside of the rotor), rotors (if you get Aussie gear the rotors will be solid, if they're Japanese they'll be vented. Vented's better because they disperse heat better so you can do a lot more hard braking without overheating and losing efficiency), calipers, and of course brake pads. Some people will tell you to get longer tie rod ends (threaded rod on the end of the steering arm) because of the differences in length of the arms, but really you'll only need longer rods if you get longer lower control arms (armature connecting the chassis to the bottom of the steering arm). People usually go for longer LCA's to either make the track wider for drifting or because they want stupidly negative camber. There's two main ways you can adjust camber for macpherson struts: longer LCA's, or adjustable camber tops. LCA's push the bottoms of the struts out, camber tops pull the tops in. One of the drawbacks with longer arms is that because your wheels will be closer to the guards it's harder to fit bigger wheels under them. I'd say a front strut brace would make a marginal difference to handling, but they're not really neccessary for something powered by a 4K.' Rear strut bars are a waste of time and money.

I very much like. It's really difficult to make an old Corolla look the sex in any form of body kit, but I think you nailed it.

Well I was gonna keep it as a surprise for today...