ATOYOTA

'bout that.

The LFA/IS-F tacho is pretty damn impressive. I know I'll never get my hands on a bit of gadgetry like that but even lexus' needle gauges seem to be pretty quick. The sort of response I'm trying for is something like this: Stepper motor is the way to go; needle drop/lag from mechanical gives me the shits, not to mention every bump makes the needle jump a bit.

Ok, so I've got this really rev-happy race engine on bike carbs and I'm after a tachometer that can match the revs with minimum jittering and lag. It's kinda hard to find information on this online because everyone's into fvcking turbos these days and throttle response is literally laughable (everyone I talk to laughs hysterically at the ludicrous idea of an engine actually making power, WHEN YOU BLOODY WELL WANT IT). What are some good starting points to look at? What are the racers using? I'd like to see it in action to gauge responsiveness before committing to buy and go to the effort of fabricating a cluster surround.

If you want to keep it cheap, just get kings. If you want to do it properly, get coilovers.

ncomeasyouare: That all depends on what sort of brembo brakes you're looking at. Wilwood's "big brake kit" for the AE86 has a 278mm brembo rotor and they say with a caliper attached it will fit most 15" wheels. They also do a 265mm rotor which fits under a 14". ToyKalibur: Scour a wrecker with a standard strut in one hand for another car with shorter stroke than what you're holding. You're lucky with the rear end as the strut is standalone so you don't have to worry about hubs bolting up or weird caster changes as you might with IRS. I hear some model of suzuki sierra has rear struts the same dimension as KE70 only shorter.

I'll be there with bells on, missed FAR too many meets so far. Except I won't be bringing a corolla; I'm bringing something a leeeettle bit more loudly spoken than my KE70. I just hope it doesn't cop unanimous negativity.

Is this next one classic jap day or just the regular one?

I chased the -ve coil wire back through the dash and found an intersecting wire so I followed that and found I had also piggybacked the tach constant to it which as I found out was sapping the power. I chose a different wire for constant and BROOM, started right up. Cheers for the help, couldn't have done it without you. Tach says it's idling at ~1150rpm warmed up. Is that a bit high?

Thank god I don't drive an old jag. The tach is wired to the negative lead on the coil, and I disconnected it from the coil when testing. As Dan suggested, the most likely explanation is that I've shorted a wire while carelessly poking & prodding plugs behind the dash. I've gotta pull the whole dash apart to see where the coil wires lead to but I'm waiting til it stops raining first because the car is parked outside up a hill from the carport, and I'm a big girl and don't wanna get wet.

You call it a switch, I'm a locksmith so I refer to it in the closest thing I can relate to: the ignition barrel. It's all the same assembly, one love mun . I think you might be right in that it's possible I've blown something in my carelessness (it's a charade, alright? It's not like I could give a fvck about it unless it quits) and sprung a smoke line. ___________________________________________________________________________ | ___________________________________________________________________________ v When I get a chance to see it in some light I'll hook up my smoke detector to the ignition --->SWITCH<--- and see if any smoke's escaped. ___________________________________________________________________________ ^ ___________________________________________________________________________ | Let's just hope it's nothing major that's expensive and/or hard to find. I feel like every dollar I'm spending on this thing is another delicious creme egg I won't be having from the servo next fill up. AND I REALLY LIKE CREME ʞ©$ɟING EGGS

I wired up a relay to the coil +ve which jumped the standing voltage to 12V but cranking still sits at 8V. The battery's also brand new, only a month or so old and it produces 12V. Maybe it's something on the -ve terminal side of things? Here's a pic of the ignition module: Yellow/green wires go to the relay. Can you put up a couple of the links you've found? I've looked for diagrams but they all seem to either not exist or the websites are dodgy. It's a 1996 G200 with the 1.3L HC engine. EDIT: I'll try testing the back of the barrel to see if it's broken at all.

I just ran a couple of tests on the coil. The 2 input terminals on the coil read 2.6 ohms when disconnected and the wires are ~10V when standing & ~8V when cranking. What's the lowest voltage a coil can spark on? 8V seems a bit low.

Charades have a single coil pack. Might have to unplug and use wires. I'll try it out this morning and keep you posted.

I know it's not a corolla but I'm hoping someone can be of help. I'm having a major problem with starting my charade and I've traced it back to a weak spark coming from the coil. Just cranks over and doesn't attempt to spark and when I pull a lead out it has a very weak spark. Tried cranking with the coil lead earthed and again, very weak. Plugs are white as the KKK. Checked fuses and they're fine. It's had trouble starting before where it's taken a few cranks and struggling to start. I was wiring up a tachometer and fiddling around with wires under the dash. Started the engine fine, then turned off for about 3 seconds, then would just crank with no attempt to fire. I also tried with a known working coil/igniter and still no dice. That's about all I can think of that's happened. Can anyone shed some light? I've looked all over google & forums and can't find a solution.

Was just about to suggest the same thing. Failing that, you could make up an adapter plate and fit the whole mirror from a '70.

My flat front also has had the side indicators deleted :( I'll have to punch out the bog and reinstate them.

Those are IRS aren't they? Big job getting that to fit into a live axle rear ended car, biiig big job. It's doable, there's currently a guy on here putting an S13 rear cradle into his KE25 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68457-my-ke25-4agte-irs-project/page__pid__680306__st__15#entry680306 It might be easier trying to fit a coil sprung rear axle in and welding in some spring seats, if you want an effective way of improving the handling in the arse.

FUUUAAAARRRRR I'm thoroughly enjoying these updates. Keep 'em coming! I'd be interested to know how the brakes end up performing as I'm hoping to have the same setup on my BC's in the future. A car that can nearly pull your eyes out of their sockets under heavy braking is far more satisfying than having them pushed back in under acceleration IMO. Having said that, a 20V with a blower the size of the damn engine block is something the gods themselves will fear!

+1 for the bigger K motor idea. Stick a couple of DCOE's on, bigger lumpstick, extractors, maybe if you can still afford it several hundred bucks later; bore it out with 5K pistons and skim the head a bit. Should get away with the above for less than a grand if you source your parts right and know your shit. Then you can start doing things like thermo fan, electric fuel pump, and lightened flywheel to free up a bit of the parasitic effect in the driveline. Alternatively, you could track down an AE71 and pull out everything from the engine to tail shaft, pedal box and crossmembers, and stick with the slightly peppier, factory optioned, fully legal 1.6L 4A-C until you're off your P's. Then when the time comes, most of the work is already done for a 4A-GE. Cars are expensive when you fvck with them.

Ok so the fusible links are rated quite high. I've just got 30A fuses running through all 3 and I thought that was overkill until now. Figured there's nothing in there over 20A so it shouldn't give me much trouble. I'll probably whack some circuit breakers in there anyway. Would it be worth rewiring to 4 pin or do 3 pin relays do the trick?

I'm rewiring a large chunk of the loom and consolidating all the fuse/relay panels into this: http://www.cooperind...elaymodule.html But I'm at a bit of a loss as to what's going on with the relays. So there's 4 relays in a KE70. The 2 in the engine bay I know are main/headlights but I'm not entirely sure what the kick panel ones are for. Maybe one is tail lights and the other is heater? I'm not sure. The other question I have is about 3 pin relays. The headlight and both kick panel relays are 3 pin but I don't understand how that works. I thought 4 would be the minimum because you need a power source and switch to run on their own separate circuits. Also my fusible links blew so I've decided to go blade type but I don't know what amperage they were rated for and which ones are which. There were 2 greens and 1 yellow from memory? Here's a couple of pics for reference. Thanks guys!

Not to mention caliper brackets.

The man asked for engine bay 'paint' ideas, he didn't say how weird.

I'm just gonna rattle off a few... Spray chrome & clear coat (not the tacky silver paint, you can actually get spray on chrome) Get a few decks of playing cards and go nuts with contact adhesive, then clear it. Worked well on the front quarter of my Charade except I forgot the clear coat and they perished in the sun :( Wrinkle finish the whole bay (be aware that this requires baking, but once it sets it's very durable) Hammertone Paint the bay white, then stick a fire cracker in a plastic bag of paint and shut the bonnet. Do a few passes with different colours (red, blue, yellow etc.) Make sure you remove/close off everything in the bay, then set a fire in there to burn off all the paint This last one is a bit of a process. Strip all the paint and remove the galv with either a grinder or ascorbic acid (neutralize with baking soda afterwards or it corrodes everything downwind of it), then rub beer & salt into the bare metal to make it rust. Once it gets brown enough, wash the shit off and spray it with this stuff: Let it seep in for a few days, then whack a few coats of clear over it. The fish oil stays tacky basically forever but you can still clear over it. If the steel is galvanized you can do the same process and let it rust through a bit. Looks like this on my Charade:

When I was there a week or two ago the wagon had everything intact including pedal box but I think it may have been an auto :/ The 71 sedan has had all the good bits pinched, engine's hanging off the sway bar. The KE has some pretty straight panels. Boot & bonnet as well as a door or two (I think) are very straight and painted a pretty decent purple. I think that one's also missing pretty much all the good bits but I think there might be a manual pedal box still left in there.