its jz a small thin cloth..havent try without the filter..but will it harm the carb if i take it off..?

It won't hurt to try it without it. Eventually the fine dust that gets sucked down there will wear the rings faster, just like in a racing car.

 

But just in case it is part of the problem it is worth taking it off to try.

not yet take it for a run..she die during idle...the idle didt stabil at all..i spray the carb cleaner inside the carb..it didt make any change..

i need to pump..pump..and pump the throttle to make it run the engine...but..it jz a waste..nothing i can do to check it properly..i had no exp bout carb anyway..she force to off too...I'm suffer..jz mention when i put on the throttle quick there is no fuel come out frm the pin..it might be sucked down there..

when i put on the throttle quick there is no fuel come out frm the pin.

 

Do you mean the pump jet? The brass pin that sits in the throat about halfway down and should squirt petrol out when you open the throttle. In the red picture it is worked by the arm "A" and pumps out a jet of petrol from "B", down in the venturi.

 

If you don't get a squirt of petrol the carb needs stripping and cleaning. You can see it is made of three sections in the next photo, and its the middle part that does the work. Either strip and clean it yourself of take it to someone who fixes them. I use a syringe with petrol to squirt through all the jets and passageways.

had a check with my friend..its a carb problem..he surrender to repair carb prob...i wan to have a try service it myself..is there any risk..? and 1 more thing..my charge light on the dashboard is light on ..what is the reason..?

Edited September 17, 201313 yr by jasonke20

Charge light means the alternator is not charging. Alternator problems usually mean brushes or diodes, both inside the alty. The other problem place is the voltage regulator. It depends upon which alternator you have.

 

It is not hard to strip the carb, but you must remember where everything goes! Take lots of photos or draw pictures of what part is where, and strip it onto a clean bench with good light.

 

You can buy 'kits' with replaceable parts and gaskets in for them, but often you do not need to replace anything.

ok...let me check closely and update u soon..thanks for the quick reply..appreciate it so much..!! cheers..have a good day...

had a full service on the carb...test it last night...it dissapointed me..still the same situation..what kind of carb fit on my ke20..?

my carb is nikki model that has shown petrol level.. i hd check that its full..

 

Is the fuel level full to the top of the window or hallf-way up?

it full...the engine idling bout 2 sec then die ..when i rev it sufferto die..

The petrol should be half-way up the little window.

 

If it is above that, then ajust the needle & seat where petrol comes in to lower the level.

 

Otherwise it runs rich and chokes the motor, so it dies on idle.

Did have a brief read of the thread... check that the dizzy advance shaft isn't seized, that would produce normal idle but erratic higher rpm driving.

Best to pull it apart and grease it up if thats the case.

 

Else leads or condensor or coil may need replacing, not sure.

then how can i adjust it..?

have a try to start the engine juz now, but it wouldn't stay at idle...so long as i kept the gas going..it goin to die slowly..

Edited October 12, 201312 yr by jasonke20

how to adjust it..and 1 thing..will spark plug be the problem also..?

Edited October 13, 201312 yr by jasonke20

Spark plugs will not be the problem.

 

Spark timing needs the correct points gap to start with. Then it is either with a timing light with the motor running to set it at 10deg at idle, so let the revs die and watch the timing mark around 1000rpm.

 

..or, take off the dizzy cap, turn the motor so the crank pulley timing mark is at 10deg, turn the ignition on (not to 'start', just to ignition lights) and loosen the dizzy locking bolt. Turn the dizzy a few degrees one way then the other until you see a spark jump as the points open. Maybe repeat it until you have it just as the spark jumps, then do up the locking bolt and put the cap back on.

 

Now your timing is 10deg. If the timing is retarded, (less than 10deg ) it will make the idle slower.

 

How is the fuel level in the window?