December 27, 201312 yr comment_674319 I am now getting power to the coil !! But as soon as I connect the dizzy wire to the coil it stops the power out put from the coil ??? Why is this Because the points are closed and the power would rather go to earth through them than through the resistance of your meter. Make sure the points are open and measure the power again. Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674322 This is how it's hooked up those 3 wires were just flopping around !! Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674323 This is how it's hooked up those 3 wires were just flopping around !! Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674324 That blue wire is the wire that runs to the dizzy Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674325 I think the red thicker wire is my igintion wire not sure on the black one or the black and white one Report
December 27, 201312 yr comment_674343 Yeah, red is ignition +ve, and the extra little red wire goes to the capacitor. They join the wire from the ballast on coil +ve. The blue goes to the dizzy from coil -ve, and the black goes on there too if you have a tacho. The white/black one with the plastic terminal on is something else entirely I think, white/black is usually an earth. Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674350 So the the little red one goes to the +ve a swell, Last night I tyred to see if I was getting spark agian and I was this time just a tiny little one think it's lacking power Report
December 27, 201312 yr comment_674352 You could- Unplug the small red wire from the blue one that goes to the capacitor. That takes the capacitor out of the circuit in case it is leaking. Have you replaced the condensor in the dizzy?? If that is leaking it won't build up charge and you get a small spark. Take the red coil +ve wire off the coil and put a multimeter on it, earthing the other multimeter lead.. Unplug the starter solenoid so the starter can't work, and check the voltage at the coil when you turn the key onto "start". It should read 12V then as the coil gets full power. Let the key go back to 'ignition' and it should read 9volts. So, if you have 12v and 9v to the coil, a new condensor and the capacitor unplugged, then any small spark problem is probably within the coil, everything else has been eliminated. That's assuming the points are correctly gapped, as a small gap gives the capacitor less time to charge up. Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674355 Just hook up the multimeter and I'm getting 12.3v so I'm getting full power I haven't replaced the condenser yet it the dizzy I'll go to the shops now and get a new one Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674357 I've unhooked the dizzy to the coil all together I tried to get spark just from the coil and still nothing Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674358 My points are set 0.45mm from the biggest edge of the rotor button shaft Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674359 Brand new coil brand new balas and still no spark from coil lead Report
December 27, 201312 yr Author comment_674360 Without it being hook up the the dizzy I should still be getting spark from my coil lead shouldn't i ?? Report
December 28, 201312 yr comment_674367 Nope. It needs the points to open and close to give a stepped voltage. 12-0-12-0... That collapse of the electrical current induces the high voltage in the coil windings. The condensor magnifies the amount of current coming and going to give a solid burst to the coil and get a good spark.. You will read 12V with a multimeter or it will turn on a test light at either the 12V -ve terminal without the dizzy wire on, or at the 12V +ve red wire going in if you have that off. However you will only see a 12V spark if the points are open and you put a screwdriver across them. That might give you a high-voltage spark as well. Report
December 28, 201312 yr comment_674368 My points are set 0.45mm from the biggest edge of the rotor button shaft Sounds right. Did you check the timing after setting them? Report
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