Taz_Rx Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Holleys are push so need to be mounted low so they are gravity fed from the tank. You'll probably need to prime it when you first get it running. This is another reason I like Carters as they can suck and prime themselves as well as push. Try an inline restrictor, might help. There is no pressure pushing the oil out of the turbo hence why it needs a free flowing down hill return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 So if I was toget a carter green. I could mount it in the engine bay and use then same setup as the mechanical? As I really want an easy fix with the car I'm over doing major changes. A fuel pump that is an easy install and upgrade haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I probably wouldn't mount it in the engine bay. I more so meant you can mount it anywhere in the boot, higher than the tank if you want. Its not like its really hard to write up a relay and run a single wire to the boot! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) ahah no that i can do , then run fuel line under the car. ye so carter green sounds more like the way to go then woo time to find one of those. relays haha ima just put the pump onto a switch in the cab hahah Edited March 8, 2014 by clean55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filfrederick Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 i had a electric pump in the rear of that thing, mounted to one of the fuel tank straps, there should be all the wiring for it still there. all you need is a foot of hose to go from the tank to the pump. did i give you that black facet pump? it may be still hanging around my place somewhere. -phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 i had a electric pump in the rear of that thing, mounted to one of the fuel tank straps, there should be all the wiring for it still there. all you need is a foot of hose to go from the tank to the pump. did i give you that black facet pump? it may be still hanging around my place somewhere. -phil Phil bud when are you free? haha I'll have to bring it around to yours and you can help me out with the fuel pump sheet :D and you can see how the car has moved on ahha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filfrederick Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 you can drop round today it you want, ill just be down in the shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 So got a carter 6-8 hi flow pump. Now regulator can I run it at that pressure or do I need a regulator at 3ish psi. Again any advice is good advice! -kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Apparently 1.5-3.5 psi is the go ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Well got a regulator in the line 4psi regulated is good :) ... destroyed my clutch on track so new clutch and i think the engine is actually running quite well now.. wound the timing up to about 30 degrees and very good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 So you've got rid of all the misfiring now? Sounds like its time to throw a vid up for us! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) Yep everything is running a lot better new clutch in timing is set to around 35 degrees advanced now it's pull well revving freely and sounding glorious i took this video for you guys last night in the wet. so there was little to zero traction anywhere hahah but ill will havea video of it on track very shortly!.. Would like to say thank you so much for everyone's help wouldn't have been able to do it without this thread! and i think we have created a pretty solid Boost your 4k troubleshooting thread haha picture of the final product and of the all the modifications i had to do! My 16 step guide in how to Turbo a K series motor! (Major steps only) 1- Relocate the Battery to the boot 2. Strip old manifold/carb/headers off 3. Make a turbo manifold 4. Using a metal exhaust gasket mount up that bad boy! 5. Find a suitable turbo for the engine. I used a custom front and rear housing carbon sealed setup i found of a dude in Melbourne 6. Mount up the turbo and start to get Excited!! 7. Attach all the lines and chosen Carby, as well as whatever crazy setup you fabb'd up to make a filter fit.. Remember to ensure your Turbo oil return line is in a horizontal fitting into the sump as high up on the sump as you can get it and with as much of a downward slope as you can get it! 8. Get an exhaust made up. I have a 2.5" Lobster joined exhaust running one hotdog muffler mid pipe. 9. Lock up the dizzy.. or you WILL blow head gaskets! As Taz_RX said use lockwire not zipties! (I went from points to electric and I highly recommend it especially if you are using boost.) 10. Get a new fuel pump because any boost pressure above around 8PSI I found the stock mechanical pump struggling... I went with a Carter P4600HP Electric Fuel Pump which was around $130 shipped and is a high quality pump a little bit loud, but i like that lets me know its working! 11. Find a fuel regulator as you will need one with a pump pushing anything more than 3PSI to be safe or you will flood the carb seals. I got this old holley one for $40 off one of my rotary mates, but I'm fairly certain a 1-4psi holly fuel reg is only about $50 anyway. 12. Replace your clutch you will need to. 13. Get a friend to help you put the box back in because doing it by yourself with the car only 50cm in the air is definitely not any fun at all! 14. Get yourself a nice array of gauges to monitor your engine after all the hard work you did last thing you want it to wreck something because you didn't know it was happening! 15. Sit back and look on as your K Motor now looks much nicer than it ever did 16. Turn the key boost away and enjoy chopping 4age boys! First start ----> Running good ----> THE END! Now everyone loves a boosted k motor so get use to explaining everything you have done and enjoying the bewilderment of people minds when they realise you have a carb instead of an ecu and you can tune it with a screwdriver :D What my car actually looks like these days Thanks for reading -Kim Edited March 26, 2014 by clean55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Should i make another thread with just that guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Should i make another thread with just that guide? It could maybe get added to the faq Your Carter its only noisy because you didn't use the supplied mounting bracket. The rubber mounting in those things is awesome for eliminating the noise. ;) Good work btw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clean55 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Hello again. Once again i bring you another REALLY annoying bug! Ok so oil is pooling in my spark plug tubes, and being forces through the small venting hole at the top of the ignition lead. My assumption is this is what is causing my boost cutting issue when accelerating as it would be drowning the spark. however i have a catch can running off the two venting holes on the top of the rocker cover and there is minimal to zero blowby. Fixes I've already tried. Replacing the spark plug tubes Replacing the spark plug tube seals Removing the PCV valve in the tappet cover Turning down the Boost Over torquing in the spark plugs. Venting EVERYTHING to ATMOS And still is pours out the top of the plugs -_- I'm lost for ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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