XIX OLLIE XIX Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Hey all thought I would introduce my self since I have been lurking on here for a few days So I'm building a 1984 AE71 in to a time attack / hillclimb car. So to start it off i brougnt this car of a lady for $600 and then the stripping started The rear axel was ripped out and sold and a bigger r31 axel and diff purchesed which atm in still lining the mounts up and re welding the mounts on. I then sold the engine and I have a 7mgte in my garage that I'm rebuilding with a forged bottum end better head gasket and new tourqe setting for the head bolts. I will be converting the car to ae86 coilovers all round better r31 brakes on the rear and bigger 86 brakes on the front. The first plan is to get the engine in the car and running I will need to change the sump to a 5m sump and oil pick up then upping the boost and my plan with some head work is to obtain 400kws Still not sure on what gear box I will be useing but I'm open to suggestions? This is all I have for now Talk soon Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Hello, Interesting project! I wonder if that for a time attack car you need the pinnacle of balance and you might not achieve that with the M straight six series of engines. Id be looking to almost anything else that wasnt six in a line. You have to be very conscious of making a car that handles, as 400kw and 2.5 cylinders in front of the axles wont help you get around any corners, and in time attack corners are very important. It would not be ideal if you built the whole thing to a high spec and found that a 4age car with cams would be faster around a track, and be easier to drive. Have you considered a Beams engine, or a 2zzge, or if you want a lot of capacity consider a 3rz or an alloy v6 like an 3MZ or 1GR engine? Id love to see a great result for you! One of the best things about a ke70 is its balance front to rear, and the lightweight nature that means without a lot of power you can go quite fast. I worry that 400kw is way too much for the chassis, especially driving for grip. The polar effect would be insane! You would have to bring it right the way through the firewall. Just my 2cents, which you have to round down now anyhow... Edited April 24, 2014 by LittleRedSpirit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Hey thanks for that all feed back is welcomed. Wouldnt a 4age still be 2 cylinders infront of the steering rack ? And hey if it doesnt work it will become a drag car but its worth a shot lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Hey my brother in law and my self had a spare day so we knocked most of the tar out of the interior with dry ice and a mallet and started stripping the r31 axel down waiting on our new mounts to be welded up and we also started on flareing the front gaurds out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) I chucked the fender back on the car and I thought lol that looks random as f*#k but any way it will look cool once its much lower and bigger rims ....... I hope lol Edited May 5, 2014 by XIX OLLIE XIX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 So today I removed the spare tyre holder and put a new sheet of steel in there ready for the boot mounted radiator and fuel cell and also cut more of the body away so the rear diffuser can fit in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Wouldnt a 4age still be 2 cylinders infront of the steering rack ? Its not the steering rack thats the crucial point, its where the front wheels are centred. Anyhow, looks good, youre making good progress towards your goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 So finally some stuff arrived in the post I received new stronger mounts for the skyline diff and I got some second hand xyz coilovers and have converted the rear to coilover rear instead of seperate springs and shocks the new steering wheels arrived and hydro hand brake. So tomorrow the last few welds will be done on the diff then to get a new adjustable 4 links. Next will be rebuilding the skyline brakes unless some one can help me with a better brake upgrade for the rear after the rear brakes are done the front suspension and brakes will be the next upgrade. Also the 7mgte is a no go lol. I'm going to go with a 4 cylinder but not sure what one 4age, 4agze, ca, sr, 3sge or t Cheers OLLIE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 have converted the rear to coilover rear instead of seperate springs and shocks Make sure you have the suspension travel sorted out carefully or bottoming out will knock the shock mount off the diff won't it? The weight of the car at 2G currently goes into the top of the diff with the shock taking a portion of that to slow the motion down, whereas you will put all that force through the mount pin. Whichever motor you pick, I'd look at dry-sumping it as you will be buuilding up some great sideways force and oil surge will be a problem. The cage will be another interesting design as you want stiffness around the suspension but not a lot of weight added. For some reason most cages have a lot of steel in the back seat where it does nothing but slow you down. Are you going to use twin master cylinders on the brake setup?? I can't see you ever needing that hydraulic handbrake in time attack or hillclimbs, they're really just a bling factor. You might pull some ideas out of our builds of rally cars on here, and from Steerfast's current one. Are you going to seam weld the shell?? I'm currently hunting down weld bolts or steel rivets as an option as seam welding concentrates the force along the weld and encourages it to crack, while fasteners in the center of the seam allow some flex around them while holding both panels together. Don't forget an adjustable cross-strut bar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 The only reason we have gone for a hydro hand brake is for hillclimb And motor or gym khana. And the shock mounts on the diff have very beefy. But its all good feed back thanks mate. I havent even thought about the seem welding or cage yet thats a little way away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 So I was finishing off the welds on the diff and I could smell smoke I was like wtf is that smell it doesnt smell like welding took my welding shield off and look at my welder and its on fire .... my welder chernobyled fml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Ah- speaking of that, what are you doing about a limited slip unit?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Not sure thinging of minispooling it for now and then go limited slip later when I have more funds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XIX OLLIE XIX Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thinking* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feral4K Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 carry on son!, carry on......q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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