Okay, so I'll start off by giving you an insight on what parts I'm running.

 

I'm using the stock ke70 crossmember and steering rack, r31 rack and tie rod ends, r31 lca's to s13 knuckles and suspension.

 

So I've done what most people do for extra lock and modded my knuckles (cut of 20mm) and now I have some serious Ackerman issues. One wheel is full lock and the other is probably not even half lock.

 

Some help would be grouse.

Youve got a big pile of parts that are incompatible witrrh corolla geometry. Stock parts will solve your issues. S13 gear is famously shit in a ke70.

Looking for solutions, not opinions mate.. Cheers anyway.

The whole setup worked fine before I chopped the knuckles. So go figure..

So adjust your tie rod ends

If it were really that easy, do you think I would be here?.

 

Here is my predicament..

you need to find someone who can cut and reweld the steering knuckles/arms while it's on the wheel alginment machine.

They need to be able to measure "toe-out on turns" generally measured at 20 degress and then they may have to do bump steer as well.

On full lock the inner wheel should be 20-22 degress, done to both sides.

Edited September 6, 201511 yr by TRD ke70

Wow, lots of attitude from both sides, that's nice.

 

TRD is right, with the level you're building at it's got nothing to do with what car the parts came off if you make them work together. cutting and re welding the knuckles at a different angle will be your solution, the only way to know when it's right for your particular setup will be on a jig or with an aligner. If you work out the ackerman you need on the arms you could make a jig to weld them off the car probably. You'll probably want to consider bump steer while you're making measurements.

You could measure it after you have calculated what you want like this-

 

You have the length and width of the KE70 so you set it up in a garage with some string and chalk. Disconnect the steering arms, turn the wheels to where they should be and make the steering arms fit. You will need to weight the nose to the normal ride height you will be using.

 

That will give you normal Ackerman steering, but if you're going to use it for motorsport you will want something more sophisticated.

 

 

There is stacks on the web about it-

Yeah we're they cut and shut on a jig? Or by eye? Your steering rack was centered when everything was bolted back in? Is the same left to right or only in one direction?