Jump to content

Positive Camber Wont Go Away


Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

 

First time poster so please don't kill me. Basically today I messed up driving my KE70 in the wet. My brakes locked up so I slid and hit my front left wheel on the curb at around 25 - 30km/h. The car didn't mount the curb but it did hit it pretty hard with the wheel turned slightly to the left. Right now, my front right wheel seems to have a lot of positive camber and is constantly pulling to the right. I've pulled the wheel off to have a look at what might be bent but all appears to be fine and none of the arms seem to be bent how ever the the hub does seem to be on an angle. Also I can't freely spin the wheel when the car is jacked up like i used to. Any idea on what could possibly be wrong guys? Thanks in advance!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad

Welcome aboard ! Despite you not observing anything visually wrong, there obviously is something very wrong. More than likely a bent axle stub, or strut tube, which on the KE70, was the smallest diameter tube of all the KEs.

 

Like the man suggests, get the jack out, then remove brakes & rotor/hub, until you are looking at just the strut & stub axle. If you don't find the issue during removal, you should see it clearly, once you've got to that stage of bare stub axle & strut.

 

The strut is going to have to come out. I would automatically replace it, rather than repair it, irrespective of how small or large the damage you find is.

 

Come back & tell us what you find. A few pictures would also be great.

 

Cheers Banjo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, the guys are right. Pull all the front suspension off, because when you find the strut is ruined you will replace both at once, or at least both shocks with new inserts.

 

Strip the struts back to stub axles, stand them on the edge of a bench and admire the differing stub axle angles. Look for slight bulges or signs of the cup coming off the strut tube. Go check the steering arms for matching, and the rack ends for straight.

 

Then go buy a pair of lower control arms off a Corona RT and make sure they are 10mm longer. They will give you zero camber with new struts instead of the KE70s usual positive and help stop the understeer that got you where you are today.

 

Search through this site for fitting Corona/Celica struts instead, and even chase up some coil-over prices. If you have it apart you might as well improve it, for as Banjo said, the KE70 has the smallest diameter, weakest strut of them all, which also limits the brakes and shocks you can fit..

 

New front wheel too I bet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright guys thanks for the input so far. I've gotten the jacked up, taken the wheel off but don't have tools to continue much further so ill have to wait for my mate to come over with some tools. In the meantime, I've been trying to look for some parts. Ive called up a couple of wreckers but none of them seem to have an XT130 Corona in stock but they do have a couple of KE70/AE71 so for the time being, ill have to stick with just a replacement of components instead of a slight upgrade. Thanks again guys and ill keep you posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of Rollaclub guys in Melbourne. One of them will post here hopefully, where you might find your needs in Melbourne. First get it all stripped down, do a bit of research & reading on here, so you have a complete list of what you need, so you can get it all in one go.

 

Just be aware that the KPI angle (king pin inclination) on the Toyota struts for Corollas, Coronas, & Celicas, vary from model to model slightly.

 

Someone on Rollaclub or Toymods produced a listing of all the available Toyota struts & their respective KPIs. I'll see if I can find it, & put a link in this thread for you.

 

I know I got caught once, early on, fitting Celica RA65 struts with Cresida brakes to the front end of my KE30. I had to finish up fitting camber top adjusters to get my camber correct again.

 

Don't go overboard with the negative camber, or you'll finish up with poor tyre wear, and attract the boys in blue. For street use, I've found -0.5 to -0.8 deg is sufficient to give good steerability, stability, tyre wear, & better more precise cornering. Best thing you can do when putting it all back together, is get a good set of new shock inserts, to suit whatever struts you finish up with, as Altezzaclub has suggested above.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, I'm back now. Have exams over the past few weeks so havent had time to post or start working on my car. Just picked up a 41 Piece Socket set for Supercheap so will start taking the strut out. Will post pics soon. Thanks again for all the help and advice so far!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...