Viterbo Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 The most similar I found runs through some weird valves I don't have. I'm going to install bike carbs in a few months, the vacuum will have to be connected to the manifold. Since that messes up timing, what people do to solve that when using bike carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Run it on manifold vac. You will still set the idle advance to 8-10deg without vac, then set the idle speed when you connect the vac up. (adding vac will increase the idle speed) If it pinks at all just retard the timing until it doesn't. Manifold vac adds about 5deg more advance than ported vac when driving, but obviously 10deg more at idle when the ported vac is closed off. The figures I measured are all in my topic about fitting an electronic dizzy and changing the spring rates to make it work. I've run on manifold vac, ported vac and both at once at different times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viterbo Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) I tried different advance settings and when set at around 15 degrees (with vac from manifold connected) the starter cannot start the car when hot. So I'm using around 12 degrees with vac on and that way it runs well. It's the second starter I use with exactly the same outcome (not new tho) I'm running around 12,5 bar in each cylinder which may be the cause of the hard cranking when hot. Edited December 2, 2016 by Viterbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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