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Head Gasket Failure


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Try some premium (or 98) for a week and see if it stops running on

 

I only use BP or Mobil...

 

Caltex (aka Shell) fuel has always made my car run like a pile of crap

 

 

that might stop it from running on but doesnt explain why it still doesnt want to rev??????

 

it migt actually...is it smooth at idle or quite lumpy?

 

if the head has been skimmed a couple of times it might need a higher octane rated fuel to stop it detonating as the compression ratio has effectively been increased by skimming the head.

 

cheers, andrew

 

P.S

Caltex (aka Shell) fuel has always made my car run like a pile of crap

strange, shell fuel is just as good as bp fuel in my 4k...woolies petrol is just painfully slow

then again i hvae never touch PULP

Edited by love ke70
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Try some premium (or 98) for a week and see if it stops running on

 

I only use BP or Mobil...

 

Caltex (aka Shell) fuel has always made my car run like a pile of crap

 

So what caltex fuel did you use?

 

 

Welcome back Trev........... I know what vortex is... and I never used it

 

I'm talking about Shell Optimax which is 98

 

Shell fuel always made my car run like a piece of shite

 

BP made it rum better but destroyed needle & seats

 

***************** Surprise surprise, 10% ethanol fuel isn't reccomended for most cars made before 1997 :) cause ethanol eats plastic for dinner

 

I found that Mobil fuel is OK and also that new 98 octane fuel you get at Freedom servos is also quite good

 

What you mean welcome back ive been here just not as much as i have to work 6 days a week :) , i have a list of non ethanol toyotas i will put it up in a sec.

Edited by Trev
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it migt actually...is it smooth at idle or quite lumpy?

 

The idle is lumpy, but i thought it may be fuel persure so if put a fuel reg in line because sidedrafts don't like more than 3-4 psi and the standard pump can give up to 9. that made very little differance, back to the muffler idea again i guess. :)

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what was the timing set to?

 

see, i may be way of the ball and been spending too much time in the shed with lpg fumes making my eyes sting. but my car was idling at 50 btdc and you couldnt hear it pinging but the idle was lumpy as all hell.

see if you have a head thats been skimmed a couple of times, and your timing is too far advanced then whats to say the same sort of thing isnt happening?

 

just on a side note, did you do a compression test?

and all 4 cylinders were/are definately sparking right?

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the timing is set to 8btdc on ilde and the compretion test showed 1150 i each, but a new problem showed up to day, took the car on a longer drive and the revs keeped on climbing up at idle. and it realy ran on today, so much that i had to stall her to stop. :D

i just replaced the timing chain and i set it to the "gregory's manual" specs

Edited by chrisandliz
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are there any vacuum leaks?

the fact someone else touched your car probably means they broke it

lesson 1: don't trust a) a seller

or b) anyone that touches any mechanical part of your car

 

unless you have done it, and you know its right. its probably wrong. :D

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hmm, have you got pics?

 

all you really need is the vac advance to the dizzy. the rest is greenies mumbo jumbo :(

even without that your car should still go alright

 

the fact its hunting (you did have the timing locked when you did set the timing didnt you) and your timing is correct means the carby is out of tune.

 

have you considered taking this carby people to get it tuned.

ie. carb n ject if ur in brissie, or whatever colour pages you want would prob help you out.

once you know the carby is right, if its still running on, which i will highly doubt then you should be all set :D

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oh also, when you bolted the head back down, did you make sure the bolts holes were clean as a whistle and free from any grit and oil. coz if theres a bit of oil down the hole you will torque up against hydraulic pressure, not the head. if i make sense...

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