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Turbo 4afe 1996 corolla


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Turboing my 4afe 1996 corolla. Most likely buying this kit:


Pretty confident Ive got my head around the process, but abit clueless about the tuning. From what ive read it seems that a 1996 corolla can only be tuned with a standalone ecu such as a megasquirt. I only plan to run low boost, 5 psi probably. I have a few questions, any help is appreciated especially from those who have experience with similar models. 

  • Should I consider any engine upgrades/ replacements prior to installing the turbo
  • what else would need to be purchased that is not included in the kit
  • what other things should i consider that may need to be made such as a mount for the intercooler
  • what would be the easiest way to tune it 
  • how long could i expect the whole process to take (only car I have, wont be able to drive anywhere untils its done)
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What are you gonna do about this?

"It is required that the car be Dyno tuned by a professional to get maximum performance and proper air fuel mixture. The turbo kit does not include any fuel management system."

If you want to play with this id personally recomend an aftermarket ECU first, get it running on your non turbo engine. learn how to tune it yourself. then once you have it running well non turbo, add the turbo. 

At the same time you can convert to distributorless ignition. 

Loads of options avaialble in terms of ECUs. the sprint 500 haltech is a good option if you want to buy new, its basically designed for 4cylinder engines. 

You also NEED a good wideband if you intend to DIY tune, and more importantly a good wide band controller. I personally prefer the Ballenger motorsports AFRv500. 

Edited by ke70dave
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What Dave said!!  ..and remember 56% more power will be more than 56% more heat, so get an alloy radiator as well.

I expect you'll sink the same amount of money again into the whole project, the new ECU will soak up a lot.  The Haltech Sprint 500 is $1200 plus, & tuners don't work for less than $1000. As Dave said, buy the ECU and learn how to use it.

Check the sales conditions very carefully, if it blows up you may or may not get a refund. It doesn't run a boost controller by the look, so it boosts as hard as it can and the BOV on the inlet controls the pressure going in.

A great way to get power, but they radiate massive heat straight into the back of the radiator and then into the sump as the red-hot exhaust goes under it.  With the Mitsi Evos we build for gravel and tarmac rallies, controlling the heat is the biggest headache. If you think your car runs hot now....


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  • 4 months later...

I have a 4afe bone stock with 370000kms and I'm pushing 12psi and 180whp. The clutch definitely cannot handle it but these motors are built to last and you can run 15 to 17 psi easily just make sure your turbo isn't massive otherwise it's not gonna be any fun on the street. I'm running a garret t25 as they're cheap and an ecu master det3 piggy back ecu 

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